Question on handle shapeing

T

The Zodiac

Joined
May 30, 2001
Messages
243
I have somethings I am not clear on
first off what is a good grit size to start of with to rough shape your handle.My next question I have been think about a while I am putting
a bolster on my first kife,i think it would he good to work the handle
that is going to be up near the bolster first,because it will be a hard place to get in and shape,I am thinking about dovetailing it
my final question is I am going to round the handle and may think of putting in a palm swell,I have an idea how to do but would like to see
how someone else does it,i do not have a 2x72 at this time
I have a 1x42 and a 4x36 to work with I will be getting a KMG for christmas,(Can't Wait)I would be greatful for any input on these subjucts.thanks;)
 
Nathan-

Handle shaping is about as unique as the knifemaker that does it, but there are some things to keep in mind.

If you're going to dovetail your bolsters: Make sure after you dovetail (and before pinning them down) that you put them together with their pins to make sure that the dovetail comes down and makes a perfect "V" shape on the inside edges. If you don't check this, you will get the bolsters pinned on and find out that the dovetails are not even from side to side.

If you're using something that's flat for handle slabs, dovetailing the handle material is easy, you just flip it on the opposite side (outside flat) and grind it on the disc sander...and it will match right up to the bolster dovetail. If you are using something like stag that's not flat, it will be harder to get the match-up, but is definitely possible with some care.

You want to rough grind your bolsters after they are pinned/peened on but before you apply the handle slabs. This way you will avoid building up unnecessary heat in the handle slabs. Make sure that you clean the inside edges (the dovetailed side) of the bolsters after this, or sometimes there will be a bur leftover and it will cause problems when fitting the handle slabs if you don't realize it's there.

A 36 grit belt will remove a great deal of handle material, VERY quickly. It works great, but be careful. A safe method is files/rasps as to avoid taking off more material than you mean to.

On the palm swell, just leave material in the palm area and shape as you prefer. You might want to check out Jerry Hossom's site as his palm swells are very sharp (attractive) and very comfortable as well. It will give you an idea on what to shoot for.


Good luck, and post that knife when you finally get enough time to finish it!!! :D

Nick
 
Symetrical handles are pretty but for a user it is sometimes better to bias the handle shape for one hand or the other. In other words don't worry about the shape if it fits the hand perfectly.
 
To do the palm swell..Just grind in on the round wheel of the 4X36 at the front of the scale and then again just in front of the rear of the scale then smooth it out to fit the hand,You can round the handle shape on the 1 inch belt by rolling it into a slack belt..
Bruce
 
I had a feeling that is how things are done I just needed to hear
it from somemakers who have been there and done it
thanks for all the help.all I need now is my blade back from Paul Bos
and I will be ready to go.
Thanks:)
 
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