Hello everyone I'm new here and would like some advice on what you guys use as a topcoat after dying the leather . I have used the Eco Flo carnauba creme and it was ok, but after hearing what everyone thinks about the water based stuff I decided to try something else. I asked a gentleman at Tandy leather what he recommended and he suggested Saddle Lac by Fiebings. I used it on a sheath and well it's a little too shiny for my tastes. Any suggestions as to a good product that will give a nice satin sheen and is protective?
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Question on leather finish
- Thread starter v8r
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2007
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- 2,738
This is one of those "line 12 guys up and ask them the same question and you'll get 12 different answers" kinda things.
Personally, I use different top coats depending on how the item will be used. I use Feibings Resolene on a lot of things, but it too is water based.....and I cut it 50/50 with more water.
Sounds like you might want to try Feibings Tan - Kote...it gives a natural looking matte finish and you can buff on it for a higher sheen.
Personally, I use different top coats depending on how the item will be used. I use Feibings Resolene on a lot of things, but it too is water based.....and I cut it 50/50 with more water.
Sounds like you might want to try Feibings Tan - Kote...it gives a natural looking matte finish and you can buff on it for a higher sheen.
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2001
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- 13,564
v8r, What you've been seeing about the water based eco flo is the dyes, not the finishes. The dyes tend to splotch because of the extended dry time.
Your carnauba wax is an excellent way to finish leather and will leave your desired finish and will also let the leather breathe. Leather Balm With Atom Wax by Fiebings is a much thinner solution so soaks into the leather very well (its what I use most) The above mentioned Resolene is a fantastic product when thinned down as Rayban does.
I'm right with you on those overly shiny acrylic finishes, they just give a sheath that plastic look. Satin Sheene is a duller finish, but its very dull, I use it as a resist for antique finishes. If your ever needed a dull finish for applications where its required by the customer then your golden!
Your carnauba wax is an excellent way to finish leather and will leave your desired finish and will also let the leather breathe. Leather Balm With Atom Wax by Fiebings is a much thinner solution so soaks into the leather very well (its what I use most) The above mentioned Resolene is a fantastic product when thinned down as Rayban does.
I'm right with you on those overly shiny acrylic finishes, they just give a sheath that plastic look. Satin Sheene is a duller finish, but its very dull, I use it as a resist for antique finishes. If your ever needed a dull finish for applications where its required by the customer then your golden!
Thanks for the suggestions guys. The sheath turned out nice, but it turned out a little shinier than I typically like. I did hand buff the leather before finishing it, so that may have contributed to the extra shiny finish.
The Saddlelac smells horrible also. Reminds me of fingernail polish. The gentleman at Tandy said if I didn't like it to bring it back. I might just take him up on his offer and get something else.
The Saddlelac smells horrible also. Reminds me of fingernail polish. The gentleman at Tandy said if I didn't like it to bring it back. I might just take him up on his offer and get something else.
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2001
- Messages
- 13,564
Lacquer is a nasty substance for sure. 
But it can be a nice final finish for some uses if applied lightly and evenly. Those last two requirements are nearly impossible outside where you get the best ventilation.
But it can be a nice final finish for some uses if applied lightly and evenly. Those last two requirements are nearly impossible outside where you get the best ventilation.- Joined
- Dec 5, 2009
- Messages
- 1,528
Im with Ray, I use different finishes depending on the piece and how it will be used. Most of my knives are hunting knives that will see field use in a variety of environments. So, currently, I finish them with a blended mixture of Neat's Foot Oil, Paraffin and Beeswax mixed in equal parts in a double boiler, jarred and allowed to cool. The result is a paste that can be applied with your fingers and then soaked in with heat or applied in warmed liquid form, which is how I do it.
I take my sheath to be finished and make SURE it is vigorously buffed with a microfiber towel to remove all traces of excess pigment from dying. If you do not do this, the pigment will continue to rub off indefinitely.
Next, I'll take a spoonful of the paste mixture and put it into a heat safe bowl (I use a pyrex dish) on my electric stove on low to heat it up back to liquid. While it's heating, I turn my toaster oven to BAKE and to it's lowest setting possible (around 150*). I put the sheath into the oven and heat it up. Remember, if it's too hot for your hands, it's too hot for leather. When it's evenly heated, I will take a small paint brush and brush the liquid oil/wax combination onto the sheath. You will immediately see the sheath start to soak up the mixture. A word of warning: any color other than black, will take on a much darker tone with this finish; dye lighter shades if you want to keep them light.
Once the sheath is covered good with the liquid and it's starting to congeal, I'll put it back into the toaster oven to reheat. As it reheats, the pores open back up and the mixture is pulled into the leather. I do this a few times, till I am sure the leather has been substantially treated with the mix. After the last coating, you will have some build up that didn't get soaked in. I take a microfiber towel and buff off the excess as well as buff the finish. You wind up with a nice satin matte finish that has just a bit of shine to it. If you want a bit shinier, you can apply some clear Kiwi shoe polish and buff accordingly.
I take my sheath to be finished and make SURE it is vigorously buffed with a microfiber towel to remove all traces of excess pigment from dying. If you do not do this, the pigment will continue to rub off indefinitely.
Next, I'll take a spoonful of the paste mixture and put it into a heat safe bowl (I use a pyrex dish) on my electric stove on low to heat it up back to liquid. While it's heating, I turn my toaster oven to BAKE and to it's lowest setting possible (around 150*). I put the sheath into the oven and heat it up. Remember, if it's too hot for your hands, it's too hot for leather. When it's evenly heated, I will take a small paint brush and brush the liquid oil/wax combination onto the sheath. You will immediately see the sheath start to soak up the mixture. A word of warning: any color other than black, will take on a much darker tone with this finish; dye lighter shades if you want to keep them light.
Once the sheath is covered good with the liquid and it's starting to congeal, I'll put it back into the toaster oven to reheat. As it reheats, the pores open back up and the mixture is pulled into the leather. I do this a few times, till I am sure the leather has been substantially treated with the mix. After the last coating, you will have some build up that didn't get soaked in. I take a microfiber towel and buff off the excess as well as buff the finish. You wind up with a nice satin matte finish that has just a bit of shine to it. If you want a bit shinier, you can apply some clear Kiwi shoe polish and buff accordingly.