Question on Mnandi

P

Peruna1998

Joined
Sep 8, 2009
Messages
1,123
I bought a Mnandi recently and received it today from a respected retailer. I absolutely love the knife. But, I have a question about it.

The lockbar seems to move too far along the tang of the blade on lockup. Generally in new framelocks, I've seen the lockbar engage the tang about 1/3 to 1/2 across the tang of the blade. But, in this instance the engagement is 2/3 to 3/4 across the tang of the blade. Lockup is fine. My concern is that as the knife is used the lockbar does not have much room to move. Perhaps I am wrong, but I just wanted to know if this is typical in Mnandis or do I need to send it in to be checked out?

Please understand, I am not questioning the design or performance of the knife or attempting to start a flame war. Simply, my preconceived notions on framelocks led me to believe the lockbar would not travel so far across the tang of the blade when new. If I am wrong, I will be the first to admit my ignorance, but I felt it better to ask those with more experience first.

Thank you in advance.
 
I have 5 mnandi and all the locks range from 40% to 60%. There is nothing wrong with any of these. This is the same degree you can expect to see in the sebenza as well or any framelock for that matter. When I look at a framelock, one that I consider on buying, I look for about 50%. With that amount of engagement, I am happy.

Do you have pics of the mnandi ??? What wood did you get ???
 
Peruna1998 said:
I bought a Mnandi recently and received it today from a respected retailer. I absolutely love the knife. But, I have a question about it.

The lockbar seems to move too far along the tang of the blade on lockup. Generally in new framelocks, I've seen the lockbar engage the tang about 1/3 to 1/2 across the tang of the blade. But, in this instance the engagement is 2/3 to 3/4 across the tang of the blade. Lockup is fine. My concern is that as the knife is used the lockbar does not have much room to move. Perhaps I am wrong, but I just wanted to know if this is typical in Mnandis or do I need to send it in to be checked out?

Please understand, I am not questioning the design or performance of the knife or attempting to start a flame war. Simply, my preconceived notions on framelocks led me to believe the lockbar would not travel so far across the tang of the blade when new. If I am wrong, I will be the first to admit my ignorance, but I felt it better to ask those with more experience first.

Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...

My son has a Mnandi that is about the same. Based on telephone conversations with CRK and research here, I think it is nothing to worry about. Remember that AFAIK CRK is one of very few cutlers that harden the face of the lockbar.
 
Peruna1998 said:
I bought a Mnandi recently and received it today from a respected retailer. I absolutely love the knife. But, I have a question about it.

The lockbar seems to move too far along the tang of the blade on lockup. Generally in new framelocks, I've seen the lockbar engage the tang about 1/3 to 1/2 across the tang of the blade. But, in this instance the engagement is 2/3 to 3/4 across the tang of the blade. Lockup is fine. My concern is that as the knife is used the lockbar does not have much room to move. Perhaps I am wrong, but I just wanted to know if this is typical in Mnandis or do I need to send it in to be checked out?

Please understand, I am not questioning the design or performance of the knife or attempting to start a flame war. Simply, my preconceived notions on framelocks led me to believe the lockbar would not travel so far across the tang of the blade when new. If I am wrong, I will be the first to admit my ignorance, but I felt it better to ask those with more experience first.

Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...

100 % Normal, I have two that are exactly the same as you have described,
One has Bocote Wood & the other is Ivory & damascus. :D:D:D
 
Thanks, guys. I knew I was probably worried over nothing. I did not know they hardened the lockbar interface. That seems a good idea.

No pics, sorry. I got the Macasser Ebony. It is scary sharp and the perfect size for me (office worker). One day I will have to go back for a mammoth inlay, they look too nice.

Again, thanks!
 
Got mine a couple of weeks ago and it is the same as yours. I got one with Madagascar Ebony. It is one sweet knife.
 
congrats on the mnandi. i love mine. :)

mms_picture(2).jpg
 
JNewell said:
My son has a Mnandi that is about the same. Based on telephone conversations with CRK and research here, I think it is nothing to worry about. Remember that AFAIK CRK is one of very few cutlers that harden the face of the lockbar.
Click to expand...

how exactly does CRK harden the lockbar face on their knives? I know some makers use Carbidizers but I wasn't sure if CRK did that.
 
tf8s said:
how exactly does CRK harden the lockbar face on their knives? I know some makers use Carbidizers but I wasn't sure if CRK did that.
Click to expand...

DaveH said:
CRK heats the face of the lockbar very hot with a torch.
Click to expand...

I don't know exactly what CRK would do to the lock bars on their knives but I do know hardening Titanium can be a rather complex process. More or less so depending on the alloy and it isn't possible at all with some. Just heating it up dosn't really "harden" it but creates an oxide layer that is fortunately pretty hard wearing and usually nice colours too. :p
 
DaveH said:
CRK heats the face of the lockbar very hot with a torch.
Click to expand...

apparently heating 6/4 titanium won't harden it at all other than the ti-oxide layer, which I think will wear away eventually. there was a big thread on another forum where Tom Mayo, Kevin Wilkins, Brian Fellhoelter, Charles Marlowe, Matt Cucchiara, and Ken Onion all discussed carbidizing and heat-treating titanium. a lot of makers argued with Kevin Wilkins about heat hardening titanium, but he maintained it wasn't possible. it might be that the oxide layer lasts long enough for any knife application, but the impression I got from the thread was that a carbidizer was the way to go. PM me and I can send the thread over to anyone who is interested. I figured since the Sebenza lock never sticks, something else must have been done in addition to the heating of the titanium, to improve hardness. I think the heating of titanium reduces shearing and increases tensile strength (I think the two are proportional).
 
Last edited:
I have been working with Ti for a good few years and had the chance to play with pieces of Ti alloy as well as pure Ti at the Lab when I was at Uni.
I'm not claiming to be an expert on the subject by any means but I have had personal experience with *"hardening" Ti and have seen it done with my own eyes.:):thumbup:

* Titanium can defo be "hardned" but it does not behave the same way steel would and this is what people seem to think is happening.
It is easy to find descriptions of the processes on line but if you are not familour with the tems of phrase used in metallurgy it may be rather confusing.
 
it's been a little while since I read the thread in question in great detail, but I think the issue of hardening was only for 6/4 titanium. is the hardening that you're talking about for titanium the layer of titanium oxide and an increase of tensile strength, or an actual increase in the RC of the titanium itself. I should probably make a thread elsewhere since none of this really has much to do with the mandi, this kind of stuff just interests me for some reason.
 
CRK heats the lockbar with a torch creating a very hard oxide layer when it cools. Sometimes it will wear off, if this happens, CRK re-does this process and the end result is another oxide layer. I had a small sebbie that was pre-owned. It was not put together properly by the previous owner. After a short time, it got very loose. I sent it to CRK and they had to re-heat treat the lock bar because of it being improperly assembled, the lock bar oxide wore unevenly. Its was good as new upon its return...........This whole preocess it shown on the CRK DVD that I Highly Recommend. Its a 2 disc set and the disc on the sebenza in pretty in-depth. The other is on the one piece knives.
 
tf8s said:
it's been a little while since I read the thread in question in great detail, but I think the issue of hardening was only for 6/4 titanium. is the hardening that you're talking about for titanium the layer of titanium oxide and an increase of tensile strength, or an actual increase in the RC of the titanium itself. I should probably make a thread elsewhere since none of this really has much to do with the mandi, this kind of stuff just interests me for some reason.
Click to expand...

You're scratching the a surface of subject that took me a long time to get the "basics" of, there is aspects of it that I didn't even cover at Uni.
I can say with authority that you will have some fun reading a head of you if you want to dive in to the world of nonferous metals and how to do things to them :p
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top