Question on scandi grinds?

kyhunt

kyhunt

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Mar 20, 2007
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What makes scandi grind knives so popular? I see lots of them on here but have never used one. I like the looks of them but was wondering what made them more desirable than other grinds(flat,convex,)?
 
Because there's no secondary bevel the edge is really fine so they cut really deep. More like a full flat grind or a full thin convex grind.
 
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The short and simple answer is:
If you have a spare $10 buy a Mora #1 knife.
Use it for all sorts of cutting tasks
And you will see.

The long answer is:
The blade geometry is acute with a long faceted profile
So it acts like a very thin and very sharp wedge

More desirable ?
I do not know
Each diffferent blade grind and geometry cuts differently
So for what purpose is the knife

I personally find I can get very fine cutting with a scandi grind
 
Thanks. After thinking about it one of my kids has a mora scout. I might just have to use that and see. Forgot all about it.
 
yeah both efficient slicing and easy sharpening. Also, since the full thickness of the spine is maintained through the blade until the grind to the edge, you get alot of lateral strength in a much thinner knife.
 
The thing that I like about the scandi grind is the large area of the bevels. For me, this allows me to control my angle of attack when working wood much easier, like using a chisel, as opposed to other grinds.

I don't care if the very edge has a zero edge, a secondary grind, or is convexed. I like the saber grind part for the bevel face, and I typically end up with a convex edge, because I sharpen by hand without a guide then strop.

In my experience, scandi grinds are great for wood, but bad for potatoes, apples, carrots, and the like.
 
chopchop said:
In my experience, scandi grinds are great for wood, but bad for potatoes, apples, carrots, and the like.
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I would generally agree, but if the blade is thin (I have one in 2,2mm for example) it works great for kitchen tasks as well. In my opinion.

Best regards,

l.
 
lightleak said:
I would generally agree, but if the blade is thin (I have one in 2,2mm for example) it works great for kitchen tasks as well. In my opinion.

Best regards,

l.
Click to expand...

Very true. I have a Mora 2000 that Spooky Pistolero gave me that I use in the kitchen all the time. It's scandi but thin and does fine.

I think since the Woodlore is sort of the pattern for a lot of custom makers often they tend to make bushcraft knifes too thick, although I guess the case could be made that a thick scandi is better for batoning. acts like a wedge.

But at the proper thickness I think they are fine for camp kitchen stuff. I haven't handled one but doesn't Fiddleback make a few using thin steel?
 
chopchop said:
In my experience, scandi grinds are great for wood, but bad for potatoes, apples, carrots, and the like.
Click to expand...

Mine too. A thin scandi will do okay in the kitchen but a similarly thin convex or flat grind will still out perform a scandi IME. I also think the main reason for the popularity is ease of sharpening. My theory is that people think scandi's work better then other grinds because they're able to get scandis sharper with consistant edge angles.
 
Shotgun said:
My theory is that people think scandi's work better then other grinds because they're able to get scandis sharper with consistant edge angles.
Click to expand...


Scandi is the new convex. IMO Bark River really put the convex edge on the map not because it was convex, but because they ground them thin enough so they could cut really well and the whole sandpaper and stropping sharpening method makes sharpening easier.

I remember Cliff Stamp taking some heat because one time he said something to the effect that it wasn't the convex that made them cut so well but the fact that BRKT's convexes were so thin it was like a full flat grind with no secondary. People gave him shit but I think he was right.
 
I had a new Helle Eggen that I was super jazzed about. I carried it on some hikes and did some carving. It was awesome. Then my wife asked me to help chop some stuff for a big family dinner, so I said sure & brought out my Eggen. I practically had to baton through the carrots, lol. I could see how a really thin scandi would do much better, but I agree with Shotgun that a flat or thin convex paring knife would still beat it out.


And speaking of paring knives... brief detour for the thread:
hollowdweller said:
I've always thought one of these would make a really ideal camp/camp cooking blade. Ever seen one? The shape is nice and the blade is so thin it will flex.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...ripper+knife&hl=en&sa=X&gbv=2&tbm=isch&itbs=1
Click to expand...

That's a Dexter-Russell Green River paring knife. I had one last year, but gave it away in the pay it forward thread. Sorry I didn't hold on to it longer! lol I think you can get DR blanks at Track of the Wolf, Crazy Crow, or you can get a handled one at some of the restaurant supply stores. I ended up using the sanisafe version instead.
 
I use a mora for just about everything from carving to game prep, and food prep when in the outdoors.
I find that the thinner carbon steel moras are thin enough for food prep while maintaining the general scandi goodness for carving and such.
the one thing I donot use them for is battoning type survival tasks.. but for all other things it;s my goto blade.
 
RescueRiley said:
I use a mora for just about everything from carving to game prep, and food prep when in the outdoors.
I find that the thinner carbon steel moras are thin enough for food prep while maintaining the general scandi goodness for carving and such.
the one thing I donot use them for is battoning type survival tasks.. but for all other things it;s my goto blade.
Click to expand...

On behalf of my carrot and potatoes that get diced real small, they would agree that a thin carbon Mora cuts fine.
And don't forget the wafer thin cucumbers that my girls want for their salad
 
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