Question on SR-77 if you don't mind?

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Sep 29, 2003
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251
Hey fellas I just acquired a Scrapyard Scrapper 6 LE, & am wondering what would be comparable to SR-77 in the edge retention department.

such as SR-77 = A2 tool steel, 1095, INFI, etc.

I know the steel is tough, but if the edge dulls quickly, I would prefer to sell it & get something like an INFI blade in the same general size.

just curious

thanks
 
SR77 is "modified" S7.

S7 is a super tough, extremely shock-resistant tool steel used in applications such as drill bits.
 
to answer your question S7 is probably the toughest steel out there as far as trying to break it, but the one area S7 lags in is edge retention, it is not as good as any of the steels you mentioned in that department but it is still a beast of a steel and for the money well worth it. Congrats on your score
 
SR-77, in my experience, has superior edge holding to most "normal" carbon steels like 1095, and isn't quite as good at keeping an edge as many higher end steels like INFI. I don't have anything in A2 so can't compare with that. SR-77 definitely doesn't "dull quickly", but it's not going to hold an edge like a fancy super-steel or a good stainless.

It is, however, CRAZY tough - that toughness, along with pretty dang good edge retention, make the steel excellent for chopper-sized blades. To me personally, anything below about 6" is better off with another steel, because toughness isn't as important. The Scrapper 6 is right on that borderline for me, although some folks' preferences are different.

It's hard to tell in this photo, but here's a Scrap Yard Son of Dogfather in SR-77 with a reprofiled convex edge. After chopping and batoning through several hard, seasoned birch logs, the edge was still able to shave arm hair (hairs are barely visible right below the knife, laying on the split log).

3688170219_8018b79556_o.jpg
 
thanks fellas, so how would you rate the edge retention in softer materials?

deer meat / fleash etc.

I wanted an all around hunting knife I could depend on, (I broke the tang on my ka-bar.)

I've skinned deer & elk with just a simple ka-bar & if SR-77 can hold it's edge longer than 1095 in softer materal like that of flesh I will be one happy hunter.

thanks
 
S7 has significantly lower carbon than 1095; I'd assume the same is the case with SR77.
So 1095 will probably hold an edge longer - but in soft material the difference in edge holding will probably be minimal.

And there's no doubt that SR77 is very "dependable" steel.
 
S7 has significantly lower carbon than 1095; I'd assume the same is the case with SR77.
So 1095 will probably hold an edge longer - but in soft material the difference in edge holding will probably be minimal.

And there's no doubt that SR77 is very "dependable" steel.

if I recall correctly both sr77 and sr101 are their parent steels with more chromium added. not sure about anything else, but I recall that being mentioned a loooong time ago somewhere on the forum...
 
I am not sure, but I think SR77 and Sr101 are S7 and 52100 with Jerry's super heat treatment. (Most recent comments by other's).
 
Per Crucible Steel's data charts SR77 (S7) should not hold an edge all that well. But as is often discussed, Jerry's heat treatment changes that. My experience is that it does pretty good. Not as good as A2 or SR101, but still pretty good. 1095 is another steel that depends on it's heat treatment alot for edge and toughness.
Oh, and S7 is not used for drill bits. It is used for Jack Hammer bits and coal mining bucket teeth, etc. It is an impact steel, not a "cutting" steel. Jerry and Dan's use of it is quite unique in the knife world and says worlds about what they can do with their steels. The abuse demo on their D2 Safari Skinner was amazing.
 
thanks fellas, so how would you rate the edge retention in softer materials?

deer meat / fleash etc.

I wanted an all around hunting knife I could depend on, (I broke the tang on my ka-bar.)

I've skinned deer & elk with just a simple ka-bar & if SR-77 can hold it's edge longer than 1095 in softer materal like that of flesh I will be one happy hunter.

thanks

Edge retention is fine for hunting/meat preperation although you may want to re-profile the edge on the knife if it comes with the standard factory angles. These were very obtuse and designed I guess for the "pry-bar" type applications which the toughness of SR77 make it ideal for.

If you have a belt sander and are familiar with using it I would give the knife a nice convex edge...if not the easiest and most consistant sharpening alternative is to use a Spyderco Sharpmaker...use the dark rods on the 40 degree inclusive holes to re-profile the edge...it comes with a video ( or maybe a DVD now ) to show how to use it and is easily carried in a hunting sack.

I used my DFLE in SR77 as a large cutter (re-profiled edge) for my Deer Larder work last winter after doing a Hind cull in Scotland ( the Res C and satin finish enable the knife to easily pass our Health & Safety criteria for meat prep knives which require a none porrus handle material and no coating on the blade and requires it to be sterilised by immersion in boiling water (which is not on the cooker as the handle will melt if it touches the bottom of the pan under a flame)) and this knife held it's edge fine when being used on flesh and splitting bone such as taking the head off and the lower limbs. I used a saw on the sternum and spine though for vertical splitting and to remove the femur ball joints. Some carcasses I used the knife to cut across the spine for some large saddle joints for "family Sunday Roasts". The knife could do a full day's work no problem....cleaned it and stropped the edge in the evening then sterilised it again for the next day. Two days in the Larder was about 20 carcasses...about 10 a day...so you have no worries there on the S6LE :thumbup: The Res C grip works great when using the knife with sterile gloves as well:thumbup: You could use the S6 for skinning as well...I used a smaller knife for that....a stripped RMD with G10 grips.

The RMD Sr101 is basically 52100 tool steel and whilst this and Infi will hold an edge slightly longer the SR77 steel is plenty good enough to do a days work...and regarless of the steel I always strop the edge back of an evening...so I see no issues here on edge retention of SR77. The main thing is to get the edge geometry right...the obtuse aspect of the factory edge is what seems to cause the "edge retention" issue IMO.
 
Edge retention is fine for hunting/meat preperation although you may want to re-profile the edge on the knife if it comes with the standard factory angles. These were very obtuse and designed I guess for the "pry-bar" type applications which the toughness of SR77 make it ideal for.

If you have a belt sander and are familiar with using it I would give the knife a nice convex edge...if not the easiest and most consistant sharpening alternative is to use a Spyderco Sharpmaker...use the dark rods on the 40 degree inclusive holes to re-profile the edge...it comes with a video ( or maybe a DVD now ) to show how to use it and is easily carried in a hunting sack.

I used my DFLE in SR77 as a large cutter (re-profiled edge) for my Deer Larder work last winter after doing a Hind cull in Scotland ( the Res C and satin finish enable the knife to easily pass our Health & Safety criteria for meat prep knives which require a none porrus handle material and no coating on the blade and requires it to be sterilised by immersion in boiling water (which is not on the cooker as the handle will melt if it touches the bottom of the pan under a flame)) and this knife held it's edge fine when being used on flesh and splitting bone such as taking the head off and the lower limbs. I used a saw on the sternum and spine though for vertical splitting and to remove the femur ball joints. Some carcasses I used the knife to cut across the spine for some large saddle joints for "family Sunday Roasts". The knife could do a full day's work no problem....cleaned it and stropped the edge in the evening then sterilised it again for the next day. Two days in the Larder was about 20 carcasses...about 10 a day...so you have no worries there on the S6LE :thumbup: The Res C grip works great when using the knife with sterile gloves as well:thumbup: You could use the S6 for skinning as well...I used a smaller knife for that....a stripped RMD with G10 grips.

The RMD Sr101 is basically 52100 tool steel and whilst this and Infi will hold an edge slightly longer the SR77 steel is plenty good enough to do a days work...and regarless of the steel I always strop the edge back of an evening...so I see no issues here on edge retention of SR77. The main thing is to get the edge geometry right...the obtuse aspect of the factory edge is what seems to cause the "edge retention" issue IMO.


excelent, that is what I was looking for, thank you very much
 
Per Crucible Steel's data charts SR77 (S7) should not hold an edge all that well. But as is often discussed, Jerry's heat treatment changes that. My experience is that it does pretty good. Not as good as A2 or SR101, but still pretty good. 1095 is another steel that depends on it's heat treatment alot for edge and toughness.
Oh, and S7 is not used for drill bits. It is used for Jack Hammer bits and coal mining bucket teeth, etc. It is an impact steel, not a "cutting" steel. Jerry and Dan's use of it is quite unique in the knife world and says worlds about what they can do with their steels. The abuse demo on their D2 Safari Skinner was amazing.

note: sr77 is not exactly s7. it actually has a different microconsituant make up - It's a custom steel mix based on s7. when I get home i'll try to hunt down the specific post stating it has a higher chromium level.

it isn't made for thin cross sections, but neither is infi. It does very well at holding a high level of malleability at high hardness. -any- steel at 58rc will do alright in the edge holding department. there may be large gaps in relative performance from a standard s7 blade at 58rc when compared to a bg42 blade at 58rc, but again: it'll do it's job.
 
sr-77 will take a wicked edge with the proper sharpening, but i've been told infi and sr-101 can get even sharper.

"Banned" DMCG. Do you really need it any sharper then that?
IMG_6804.jpg


In terms of edge holding ability, I've chopped through a good amonut of 2x4, 4x4, and 2x8 with sr-77 and infi, and infi does retain its edge better, but that doesn't mean that sr-77 isn't still sharp. It loses that hair popping sharpness but it could still shave.

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I'd hang onto the S6 and try it out. If you really don't like it, put it back up for sale for what you paid. The S6 are pretty rare to come by, it's one of scrapyards that hasn't been produced or brought to a show in a long time.
 
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