Question On Stabilizing Wood

Here are a couple of links to stabilizer pages.
http://www.geocities.com/Eureka/Park/4630/stabilzer.html
http://www.knifeart.com/knifeart/knifearticles.html

And our own Harry Jensen posted the following thread
http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/000739.html

I am like you, I would like to see some more specific info on what types of stabilants worked (and which ones didn't) as well as time and pressure cycles.

James




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I love my country! I just don't trust my government!
 
I've found the secrets to getting the agent into the wood, & hardening are:
1. The stabilant must be extremely thin
2. Pressure as well as vacuum is needed
3. Acrylics cut with solvents
4. Time at vac & pressure

Most of the wood penetrating sealers that are acrylic or urethane based will do the job, if cut 50/50 with the reccommended thinner. Water-based stuff don't work, since the moisture is what you are trying to get rid of. That's why I vac the wood dry, to boil off any residual water before adding the juice.
The vacuum pressure need not be a full 29.85 HG, but pull as much as you can.
Pressure is often overlooked, but it is just as important as the vac, driving the stabilant further in than vac alone.
The time element varies by wood type and density...some woods are so dense they don't absorb any stabilant (cocobolo, desert ironwood, etc), but longer is better,
Also leave plenty of time for curing after you pull it from the chamber, either by putting out in the sun during summer, or building a "warm box" with a 40 watt bulb & some plywood.
Hope this helps, or at least gets some ideas going out there!
Harry Jensen
Fresno, CA
 
Mike has a copy of my artcle Stabilization a workers view and hopefully it will be posted soon.

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Curtis Wilson -
Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw
 
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