Question on VG-10.....

[nuckingfuts]

ok guys, when I got into knives about a yr ago the first 'hobby quality' blade I got was a Delica for christmas.

Ever since then I havent used it a whole lot but enough that I've had to resharpen it. The sharpening system I'm using is pretty shoddy. Im using a old lansky guide system and I tape sandpaper to the old hones, although it isnt the best method I get pretty good results with every other steel I have including s30v.

The problem I have with the vg10 is ive never been able to get it to take a keen edge. The other day I was sharpening my izula and was checking the bevel out underneath my microscope. Since I had the scope out I looked at the delica and the edge was chipped to hell.

Although it hasnt been used a whole lot, when I have used it I cut up some really thick 3/4" boxes at work. I have used cheaper steels to do this task and they dont take the same abuse the vg10 did assuming thats what caused the chipping, it was awhile ago. Basically what im asking is under use like that is vg10 prone to chip out all crazy like that or do you think theres a possibility I have a badly heat treated blade?

The blade came out of the box really sharp but havent been able to get it to take even a somewhat satisfactory edge. I have never even seen any of my cheaper blades chip out like my delica has.

Sorry if some of this doesnt make sense to you all, I'm still pretty ignorant in blades compared to most of you.

I appreciate any ideas, suggestions!

Thank you!

 

[Jason B.]

What you are seeing is more than likely deformations, chips are not common on a knife edge unless gross abuse has happened. The possibility of a bad HT is very slim.

I would start by grinding a new bevel and finishing to around 1k with sandpaper.

Cardboard is very aggressive and will chew up the edge of a knife, this is likely why your delica looks the way it does.

 

[nuckingfuts]

Thanks knifenut, I do realize that cardboard is horrible for your blades especially 3/4" to 1" cardboard lol.

I just didnt know whether or not it would chip the edge rather than roll it ect. im still quite the greenhorn.

Im guessing the bevel has been chipped for a while now even before the first time ive tried to sharpen it and ive never completely sharpened out the chips. I just hope it wont take to long to sharpen those out. I cant really see them with the naked eye but under 50x magnification their all over.

 

[db]

Yep regrind a new edge on it. Before I even start regrinding an edge with alot of chips in it the first thing I do is grind out the chips. I grind off the chips at a 90 degree angle this may sound like it would take alot of work but really it is the easyest and fastest method. you quickly get down to good steel and then regrind the edge in.

 

[Benuser]

I have no experience at all with folders, so please forgive me if I'm totally wrong. What you've described sounds to me like micro-chipping which is very common with brand new Japanese kitchen knives. There is some discussion whether buffers or HT cause them, but the phenomena should disappear once some steel has been removed. A few normal sharpening sessions should do.

 

[nuckingfuts]

Yep regrind a new edge on it. Before I even start regrinding an edge with alot of chips in it the first thing I do is grind out the chips. I grind off the chips at a 90 degree angle this may sound like it would take alot of work but really it is the easyest and fastest method. you quickly get down to good steel and then regrind the edge in.

So your saying to pretty much sharpen the chips down straight down from the very apex and then once there out sharpen as you normally would?

Thats actually a pretty good idea, I was just trying to sharpen the blade and even with a heavy grit I wasnt make much progress.

Thanks alot

 

[db]

Yes that is how I do it. This way you get down to good steel along the whole edge. You wouldn't really think that it is quicker doing it that way but I've found that it is.And all the chips are gone when you start putting on the new edge bevels.

 

[stalag2]

I own a fair bit of vg10 spydies and never experienced chipping on them, i never cut 1 inch cardboard though...

On the other hand on japanese clad steel kitchen cutlery vg10 they tend to raise the hardness up to 62 and it is more likely to chip than spydie's vg10 which is around 60.

 

[nuckingfuts]

I own a fair bit of vg10 spydies and never experienced chipping on them, i never cut 1 inch cardboard though...

On the other hand on japanese clad steel kitchen cutlery vg10 they tend to raise the hardness up to 62 and it is more likely to chip than spydie's vg10 which is around 60.

Ya man idk, Im still quite a newb and dont know certain characteristics of steel or how they wear under use because honestly my blades dont get as much use as they should! haha thanks for the input

Yes that is how I do it. This way you get down to good steel along the whole edge. You wouldn't really think that it is quicker doing it that way but I've found that it is.And all the chips are gone when you start putting on the new edge bevels.

Ya im gonna try that. I appreciate it man, its always nice having a platform like this where knowledgeable people can spread info down to the peons!! lmao thanks man.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I own a fair bit of vg10 spydies and never experienced chipping on them, i never cut 1 inch cardboard though...

On the other hand on japanese clad steel kitchen cutlery vg10 they tend to raise the hardness up to 62 and it is more likely to chip than spydie's vg10 which is around 60.

That. ^

Spyderco's VG-10 isn't usually as hard (in RC) as some other makers' blades. On every VG-10 Spyderco I've sharpened, it forms some amazingly tough wire edges on their blades; very difficult to just break them off. With wire edges that tough & ductile, the likelihood of the edge actually chipping is very small. More likely plastic deformations (dents) in the edge.

 

[sodak]

Yep regrind a new edge on it. Before I even start regrinding an edge with alot of chips in it the first thing I do is grind out the chips. I grind off the chips at a 90 degree angle this may sound like it would take alot of work but really it is the easyest and fastest method. you quickly get down to good steel and then regrind the edge in.

I have no experience at all with folders, so please forgive me if I'm totally wrong. What you've described sounds to me like micro-chipping which is very common with brand new Japanese kitchen knives. There is some discussion whether buffers or HT cause them, but the phenomena should disappear once some steel has been removed. A few normal sharpening sessions should do.

I totally agree with both of these posts. Almost every time I've had problems with a new knife, getting past the factory edge into the steel of the knife has solved the problem, like Benuser discusses, and db's method is definitely the fastest by far. You're not constantly checking to see if you've gone far enough. You know.

Good luck, let us know how it works for you. You should be able to put a screaming edge on VG10, I'm sure you'll get there.