How To Question re: stacked leather handles and tangs

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ErikMB

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Jul 27, 2017
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I am trying to figure out what this mixed-tang implies for making a stacked leather tang.

For example: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...e-skinner-blade-785862_5000x.jpg?v=1596734516

The upper part of the tang has a rectangle cross-section. The lower part of the tang is a long, round, threaded screw.

What I am trying to figure out is whether the whole tang needs to be of one shape to make a stacked leather handle or if I can stack it up on both shapes of tang.

Any advice? Can I stack up leather on this type of mixed tang?

Thanks heaps, yet again, folks!
 
Yes you can.
The washers will be able to twist if you don't glue them well to eachother around the round stock.
Epoxy will leave black lines, some people like them , some don't. You can also use leather glue, but read up on how to use it
 
Thanks heaps for your response.

Just to clarify, the disks that are on the rectangular portion of the tang prevent rotation and the good bond going all the way down keeps the other disks attached upward, resulting in them not rotating, yes?

Also, does a mass of glue around the round part of the tang help prevent twisting, like adding some kind of putty?
 
One more question, one of the blanks I have right now has already been heat treated. The butt of the tang is rectangular. The videos I am watching show the maker peening the end of the tang to hold the butt cap on tight.

Is this possible with a blade that has been heat treated, already? I have been unable to drill holes into any of the blanks I got from this company, even with carbide bits.

There's a hole about an inch up. I suppose I could use a wood block as a cap and put a pin through. That's a solution but doesn't answer the question.
 
ErikMB said:
One more question, one of the blanks I have right now has already been heat treated. The butt of the tang is rectangular. The videos I am watching show the maker peening the end of the tang to hold the butt cap on tight.

Is this possible with a blade that has been heat treated, already? I have been unable to drill holes into any of the blanks I got from this company, even with carbide bits.

There's a hole about an inch up. I suppose I could use a wood block as a cap and put a pin through. That's a solution but doesn't answer the question.
Click to expand...
Use torch to soften the end of tang , and sharpen your carbide bits ;)
 
Are there any particular settings for the torch? I'll have to go buy one and some nice gloves.

Ooooohhhhhh...
 
ErikMB said:
Are there any particular settings for the torch? I'll have to go buy one and some nice gloves.

Ooooohhhhhh...
Click to expand...
You need something like this one
2uZuCVj.jpg
 
How about a leather/wood combination. Leather near the guard, wood near the butt. Maybe with a brass spacer.
Then you could drill a small hole in the wood for the threaded tang and a larger counter sunk hole right at the butt for the nut. Slather everything with epoxy, tighten the nut. When dry, grind flush, cap with brass, and shape the handle.
 
ErikMB said:
Also, does a mass of glue around the round part of the tang help prevent twisting, like adding some kind of putty?
Click to expand...
Not really, the round rod is very hard for the epoxy to grip long term. The handle will need to be one solid piece so the rectangle portion can prevent the handle from twisting. This "one solid piece" can be leather washers glued together, or other methods.

On heating the tang end for peening - that will depend on type of metal the tang is. If it's one of the air hardening steels (SS, etc) you've have a very hard time annealing the tip of tang enough to allow peening.
 
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