Questions about a razor and honing

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Jan 3, 2004
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I recently got my hands on an old "Macy's 95" 5/8 straight razor, made in Germany. It's in really great shape. There's only some dark patina that has formed around where the tang pivots. Might anybody know who made these razors under this brand name?

Also, I was wondering what kind of hone I should pick up to maintain this bad boy when stropping will no longer refresh the edge. So far I've been stropping it on craft paper coated with white chromium oxide, and then moving down to green and finally red before moving to the soft side of a leather strop. Any tips, opinions and constructive criticism are welcome and would be greatly appreciated!

Edited: Is it true that after honing or stropping that one should let the razor "rest" for at least 24 hours before using it again? I also scored a very old Union Cutlery 5/8 razor real cheap!! Celluloid handle, zero rust and the blade fits tightly into the handle. Can't wait!
 
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Resting is a myth, the pros who hone lots test blades as soon as they are finished. From my experience, as long as you keep your craft paper strop as hard and flat as possible, it will help keep your edge flat, instead of continually convexing (which isn't bad and may be desirable, but that is for you to decide) Most guys consider the norton 8000 waterstone to be a good basic hone for maintenance. You can also look into the high grit shaptons if you are feeling spendy, or any of the naturals. (but that can be very $$) I've looked after my razors with an 8000 ceramic (no idea on maker), probably not as good as some others, but its gotten the job done. Good luck man, lots of good info over on straightrazorplace including a great wiki.
 
I tend to cut a piece of craft paper so that it fits perfectly over a piece of balsa wood or a book. Then I rub one of my white compound sticks on it evenly, and begin. I then flip the paper over and apply my green compound and strop on it a bit. If I feel the need, I then cut another piece of craft paper and rub some red compound on it for an extra-special touch. Finally, I break out the leather strop and run at least 60-80 passes on the fine side of the strop.
 
I've used a similar method, and it worked pretty well for me, so I'd say you are on the right track. The main thing is that it works.
 
A norton 4/8k is a good stone, try making shaving lather on the 8k for your final 10-20 laps or so (after doing the 8k with just water first of course).

For me, 8k even with lather isn't as smooth as I'd like. I do a final touchup on newsprint and then just a FEW (4-5) laps on CrOx loaded strop to get it nice and keen. I also use a strop to convex it a bit. With a straight razor, you don't necessarily need the ultimate sharpness. You need enough sharpness to take your beard off and enough smoothness to make it comfortable. For some people, the sharpest blade they can get is the best. For some, too much sharpness is aggressive on the skin. For me, the best edge I can get is a little bit less sharp feeling than my DE razor blades but much smoother.

YMMV. I'm planning on getting a natural Chinese stone one of these days as a finisher in the search for my perfect edge, too. A lot of guys on shaving forums swear by them, especially for the price.
 
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