questions about a regrind

USMCSNIPER34

USMCSNIPER34

Joined
Jan 26, 2009
Messages
295
I recently purchased a condor bushlore for around 20 dollars which i thought to be a great deal. however this thing could not cut butter i have tried and tried to sharpen this thing and have been unsuccesful. also the cutting edge starts appox 3/4 of an inch from the handle. i wanted some input from you guys as to where i should send this blade to have a full length scandi grind done. i also want to take off the scales and put on tan canvas micarta can anyone tell me where to go? also i dont want to break the bank i was hoping i could get this done for less than lets say 50 bucks. any help would e greatly appreciated.

semperfi do or die
 
USMC, be careful with that 1075. It's a great working steel but my experience with condor blades (as much as I love scandis) is that even the factory grind is prone to rolling. You must have got a mellon-all of mine have come sharp enough to shave with. The grinds on mine all start farther down the blade (unfortunately) but they're still a good working tool. I just started using a steel versus removing material to sharpen all my condors and it is MUCH more efficient. That 1075 mushes easily to a shaving sharp edge.
 
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its got what i would call a scandi/convex i was just curious if it could be done. thanks for the advice this is the first 1075 blade i have ever used not really impressed thus far but for a beater blade cant really complain about it
 
There is nothing wrong with 1075 when heat treated and ground correctly. I have owned a few knives in that steel.
If I were in your shoes, I would first contact Condor, for a replacement. If that is not in the cards, Richard J has a great rep for putting a hell of an edge on a knife. I believe he has the equipment and know how to regrind it for you as well.

Good luck.
 
hollowdweller said:
Betting it would cost you more to put a good edge on it than to just go to Ragnar and buy a nice Mora.
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but the cheap Mora won't be full tang. those that are full tang are several times the price of the cheapies. (usually starting around $75)
 
I have had the same experience as the op. The blade is impossibly thick. I can get it pretty sharp but I'm still not happy with it. It's almost like it didn't have an edge bevel on it as new. I sharpen by hand so it is a slow process thining out the edge. For 20 bucks it would probably cost 2/3 the cost of the knife to ship it to Condor.
 
fixer said:
but the cheap Mora won't be full tang. those that are full tang are several times the price of the cheapies. (usually starting around $75)
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I have a lot of full tang scandis but really I don't think we're losing a lot using the stick tang ones.
 
I'm curious as to how many people have actually broken a stick tang on a knife? I never have. I don't know any one who has. I've never even broken a handle on a fixed blade knife.

I have broken two blades at the mid point of the blade. One was a Buck Fieldmate (sawback version) and the other was a Normark (Martinni) hunting knife, similar to a Mora. Both were done while batoning, and I'll admit, the wood was way too thick for the size of the knife in each case.

I would venture to guess that popular brands like Mora, Helle, Brusletto, get used much more often and much harder in their country of origin than they do in the U.S., yet they continue to make the knives with a stick tang or short tang. If broken tangs and handles were such an issue, they would stop making them that way.

The knifetests.com destruction test of the Mora Clipper reassures me that the knife won't fail under any but the MOST extreme duress. If you haven't watched it, it's an eye opener.
 
I haven't either. For repofiling my edges to a scandi grind, IE buffing out the convex hump or secondary bevel, I stay real slow and consistant with a bastard file until the edge is COMPLETELY FLAT. Then I'll work my way through wet and dry grits to 2000. Depending on the knife the process can take 2-3 hours.
 
USMCSNIPER34 said:
i was hoping i could get this done for less than lets say 50 bucks.
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Shipping back and forth to a maker and paying him something for his labor is going to eat up $50 pretty quick. Go down to the hardware store and buy a Nicholson file and some 3M "automotive" sandpaper, save yourself about $30.

If you want to replace the handles yourself, there all kinds of suppliers listed here.

edit... here's another take on it. Leave the condor in your truck or tackle box for doing things you shouldn't really do with a knife. Hang onto your $50 budget and save up till you have $100, then buy a better blade that doesn't need any work.

I'm certainly not against modding knives, heck I make part of my living doing it for people. But sometimes it's just not worth it.
 
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cramsey3006 said:
I'm curious as to how many people have actually broken a stick tang on a knife? I never have. I don't know any one who has. I've never even broken a handle on a fixed blade knife.
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do crappy kitchen knives count? :rolleyes: i've broken the handle on on old beater before. also had the handle fail on a cheap diving knife with a stick tang in a rubber hnadle.

but i don't have any Moras... mostly because i like tools that please my senses in addition to doing the job they were designed for. not gonna go off on a Mora bashing tangent, they seem decent for the price, but i'd rather scrape together a few bucks more and get something a little more appealing. unfortunately, the full tang scandis that are imported seem to price themselves out of the running and into "sunday knife" status.
 
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