Questions about finishing Kingwood.

K

KSHUNTER

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Mar 15, 2006
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My bank account is gonna wish I never found this site. I think I found a new hobby. The knives you guys put out are way beyond my Bucks...anyway...

Since I have found a hundered different ways to finish wood on this site, I am beyond confused on the best route to take. Plus, I have never worked with this particular wood before.
I am replacing a plastic handle on a hunting knife with a piece of Brazilian Kingwood. The scales(?) are not quite 3/16 thick. I have them close to the shape I want and have some finishing questions. I want a deep, rich finish...not high gloss though. I also do not want to darken the wood any since I plan to woodburn initials on it and the wood is plenty dark as it is.

Sounds like linseed, tung, and danish oils are out since they darken wood.
A suggestion was made on a previous post here to apply Thompson's Water Seal, then teak oil, sand, repeat oil & sand several times, then apply Johnson's paste wax & buff. Would this plan give me the results I'm looking for?

Open to suggestions.
Shannon
 
If the kingwood is of good quality you won't need any oil finish.Sand to a very fine grit and buff.A coat of wax (Brix,carnuba,or any good wax) will be all the sealer you need,if you want more shine.
 
I think the quality is fine. Bought it from an exotic woodshop out of Colorado. I have learned that this wood has a high oil content but thought the additional oil before waxing would keep it "wet" so to speak. 600 grit ok, or should I go higher?

Would hand rubbing a high quality paste wax work ok? Don't have a buffer to apply carnuba...or would carnuba be a better way to go?

Thanks for the help.
Shannon
 
You don't need extra oil on an oily wood.
Sand it to 1200, then wax it.. I like Meguiar's Show Car Glaze 7...
Why not try finishing the wood before you get it to final shape to see if you get the finish you want, then you can shape the handle & final finish it?
 
I got a couple of smaller scrap pieces to try that out on. Guess I didn't think that just fine sandpaper & waxing would give me a deep grain finish. I've seen some finishes that look like the finsh is just on the surface....others have a really deep look to it...that's what I'm after. But that is my newbienish showing and that's why I'm asking the experts.

Thanks
Shannon
 
If you want to oil it try teak oil. It is designed for oily woods, like the rosewoods. Kingwood is a rosewood variety.
 
Steve,
I think I read a post about you sanding with teak oil soaked sandpaper. Will the teak darken the Kingwood? How will the teak change the appearance of the wood?

Shannon
 
teak oil doesn't darken wood nearly as much as tung oil. It will do a little. The nice thig about it is that is sinks in and doesn't leave a sticky coat.

It is the only oil I use art all any more. The only wood I don't use any oil on is Ironwood.
 
KSHUNTER said:
I think the quality is fine. Bought it from an exotic woodshop out of Colorado. I have learned that this wood has a high oil content but thought the additional oil before waxing would keep it "wet" so to speak. 600 grit ok, or should I go higher?
Click to expand...

You'll notice as you sand. With cocobolo I find that the depth and color just start coming out around 600. Going to 1000, 1500 and maybe 2000 really shows. Since cocobolo is a close relative of kingwood (they're both true rosewoods) it probably works the same.

KSHUNTER said:
Would hand rubbing a high quality paste wax work ok? Don't have a buffer to apply carnuba...or would carnuba be a better way to go?

Thanks for the help.
Shannon
Click to expand...

A high quality paste wax should work ok. The (claimed) advantage of carnuba is better protection because it's the hardest natural wax. I haven't gotten as good results from hand rubbing, but maybe I didn't do it right. You can certainly hand rub first, then us some sort of machine later if you decide you need to.

Dan Pierson
 
With most hardwoods, including the rosewoods, I start hand sanding at 220 then 400 then 600. Then I start wiping on coats of teak oil let it dry then sand again. Do it 3 or 4 times with 600, then the same with 1000 then with 1500. at that point it really starts to glow.

Then I use a linen buff on the bench grinder with Fabuluster paste. Follow this with burnt in Carnuba with a linen buffing wheel. Do a couple of light coats. If you try to put on too much Carnuba it will feel sticky and look cloudy. You can use Carnuba on eating tools, as it is non-toxic in the pure state. If you buy compounds, they may not be food safe

Carnuba (pure) it too hard to hand rub or buff.
 
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