Questions about knife and sheath storage

Joined
Oct 15, 2012
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169
I have a few questions about he best way to store my collection. It contains mainly 110's and 119's.

1. What is the best way to sore my leather sheaths? I'm asking because I don't want them to mold. I've owned several different pairs of leather boots, all treated with same types of oil and waterproofing and some molded.
Should I spray them with silicone boot spray? Place them in a plastic tote with a big silicone moisture absorbing bag? Should I store them in the box or not? What's the best way to store sheaths that don't have a box?

2. Is a silicone impregnated knife roll the best way to store my 110's? I was also considering buying some of those small fleece lined zippered knife cases. Where can I find some? Smokey mtn. knife works has them but they are out of stock.

Thanks for any advice you can provide
 
Woiw, this will be interesting to read. You should get lots of 'how I do it's'. My only statement is ...Buck ships the 110/112s NOT in the sheath.
Everyone enjoy...

300Bucks
 
I have about 6 of the grey knife rolls that hold about 12 larger knives and 3 of the 66# rolls with elastic bands to keep them in place. I keep my sheaths both leather and cordura in a small attache case with dessicant packs in with them. I used saddle soap on all of the leather ones and used saddle dressing to protect them a bit. Yeah the tanning chemicals do not play nice with brass, wood and probably some other materials used in knives.
 
I keep all my sheaths wrapped in softer brown wrapping paper with a desiccant wrapped in the paper but not against the sheath. I Use packaging tape to keep the paper from coming loose. I was told by a sheath maker not to use rubber bands as they have a negative affect on the leather. I also label each wrapper with the model number. I them store them in a plastic tub with more desiccant packages scattered on the bottom and tops of the pile of sheaths. Cover the tub with the sealing top and put them in a spare closet and covered with a blanket.
It was also suggested that should the sheaths need attendance due to cracking or scratch marks to use black Kiwi shoe polish and make sure it is rubbed down with a cloth after shinning. Personally I use Lincoln Black shoe polish as this is what we all used in basic training in the Army in 1968. It seems to me to blend in easier.
Lexol leather treatment products, Red Wing Boot oil, mink oil or saddle soap was mentioned as a preserver if worried about cracking. Warm the sheath with a hair dryer before applying the product of choice.
The most important suggestion is to store the sheaths separate from the knives in an area that will not allow moisture in. Mositure is what causes the molding.

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ChicoMike

Can you clarify what you mean by soft brown wrapping paper?

Do you think it would be ok to wrap sheaths like you instructed then place them in original box before storing in a plastic tote with desicant packs around the individual boxes or store boxes in a seperate tote?
 
You should never store your knives in the sheaths. Which ever method you use to store your knives ( I use the Pleather cases with felt lining and elastic bands, and they work just fine), they should be seperate from your knives. I have a Large plastic bin that houses all of my fixed blade sheaths and they are rubbed down with Johnsons paste wax (furnature), its in a yellow and red tub. It works amazingly, and it was taught to me by by a former Buck employee. It doesnt leave and stickie residue and it preserves the leather better than any other product I've seen. You can use it on your knives as well, and it will keep that pesky blue/green stuff from growing on your 110s/112s.
 
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Sure. I have some really stiff brown wrapping paper which I believe could actually scratch the blade or handle. Then there is just a lighter material brown wrapping paper that is a whole lot softer. That is what I meant by lighter.
Also I forgot to mention that prior to wrapping the knives in the paper, I first wrap the in Pacific Silver cloth. The cloth actually is use to store fine silver dinner ware from tarnishing and it seems to work well with the cloth. So far I in using it I have had only lite tarnish over a several month period (6-8) months and then it seems to stabilize. I get mine at the other auction site rather than the bay. It is the least I have found it priced.

Mike
 
You should never store your knives in the sheaths. Which ever method you use to store your knives ( I use the Pleather cases with felt lining and elastic bands, and they work just fine), they should be seperate from your knives. I have a Large plastic bin that houses all of my fixed blade sheaths and they are rubbed down with Johnsons paste wax (furnature), its in a yellow and red tub. It works amazingly, and it was taught to me by by a former Buck employee. It doesnt leave and stickie residue and it preserves the leather better than any other product I've seen. You can use it on your knives as well, and it will keep that pesky blue/green stuff from growing on your 110s/112s.

In using the Johnson's on the knives themselves, is this on the inlays or bolsters . . . or both?
 
I have found that baby socks work great for storing my knives in. Cheap too. Buy them by the bunch from .99 cent store. Or you can pay $5 a "sock" on da bay........
 
All,
Let me inject at this point info I discussed in Idaho. That is - RECORD KEEPING - write some info on knife or sheath in the least. If you have more than one knife you will be surprised that someday you won't remember, where, when and how much is attached to that knife. A search of this forum will give you several ideas on how too's but you have to actually do it. START and stay with it.

If nothing else, buy a $ 1.00 small spiral note pad and write down the information about each knife. Once you get to the knife possession level of some these forum dudes you will not know what you got. Of course I, who gave the seminar on record keeping, have info on every knife I have........HA :foot:
300

Do a search on this forum for 'Record Keeping'
 
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