Like probably everyone else here, I love Buck Knives, so I’m not trying to bash them; I’m simply trying to get a better understanding of the issues they seem to have with the lock bar, particularly on the 500 series. I’ve found a couple over the last few years that were flush on opening and closing, but most are not flush while closed. I understand that this does not affect the function in any way; however, what I don’t understand is that I’ve seen many lock back knives that are less expensive than the 500 series that the lock bar is fully flush, open and closed. My young son bought me a small lock back for Father’s Day a couple of years ago. He knows I like wooden handle knives, and this one was similar to the 500 series except there was only a bolster on the pivot end. I think the knife costs $20. The lock bar is almost seamless on that knife, open and closed. I’ve looked at others of that same model in the store where he bought it, and they were all like that, so the one I got wasn’t just a fluke. Is it something in the design of the Bucks that makes getting the lock bar flush more difficult during manufacturing? I know some manufacturers use a stop pin to protect the blade edge when closed instead of how the Bucks use a “kick” on the tang of the blade. Is this the reason it’s so hard to find a Buck with a flush lock bar while open and closed? What am I missing? Thanks in advance for your responses?
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Questions about lock bar design
- Thread starter EagleIH
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David Martin
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I guess it's the luck of the draw. As I like the Duke and carry one of mine at least a day each week. Both of these have a flush lock bar.
If it bothers you just send it in to Buck and let them work on it. DM
If it bothers you just send it in to Buck and let them work on it. DM
I suppose a certain level of an uneven lock bar is considered acceptable by Buck. Perhaps they accept this as an inherent part of their design; I don’t know. I sent in a 503 for this issue a few years ago, and the warranty department called me and said there was nothing to fix, because they considered the lock bar being out that much to be within spec for them. Given that experience, I just accept that the lock bar likely not being flush both opened and closed is something you have to accept in these knives. I was just trying to better understand what makes this such a challenge for Buck with their design when even less expensive knives seem to consistently get this right.
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I think there’s two ways to look at it. One being from a collectors perspective that their knives are mostly for display and they want them to look perfect. And as long as they aren’t put into use they will remain pristine. To have every knife to leave the factory perfectly flush in all positions likely adds to the cost and I’m not concerned about how it appears but how it performs and that’s where I want my money’s worth.
From the perspective of a knife user like myself I know that usage is going to develop normal wear at the back spring or lock bar where it contacts the blade tang as well as the pivot pin. This is expected over time and eventually to a point will need repair or replacement but as long as it is functioning at a safe and effective manner I don’t consider it as a problem or defect.
I’ve seen many knives that started out flush but after years of use the lock bar was sunk in a bit and I could tell the lock key tab was bottoming out in the notch on the tang. At this point it’s not as secure and probably needs repair before it fails to hold in lock up.
So in conclusion I’d say that you can put more money into looks if you’re willing to pay for it but as a user I don’t want to spend extra for a visual enhancement when it is going to wear in over time anyway. And knives are made to use.
From the perspective of a knife user like myself I know that usage is going to develop normal wear at the back spring or lock bar where it contacts the blade tang as well as the pivot pin. This is expected over time and eventually to a point will need repair or replacement but as long as it is functioning at a safe and effective manner I don’t consider it as a problem or defect.
I’ve seen many knives that started out flush but after years of use the lock bar was sunk in a bit and I could tell the lock key tab was bottoming out in the notch on the tang. At this point it’s not as secure and probably needs repair before it fails to hold in lock up.
So in conclusion I’d say that you can put more money into looks if you’re willing to pay for it but as a user I don’t want to spend extra for a visual enhancement when it is going to wear in over time anyway. And knives are made to use.
Depends upon if you buy a knife to use or to look at. Since the knife is $20, it's to use and there is no "issue."
Appreciate it like you do the son who gave it to you on Father's Day
Use it and think of him. "Don't look a gift horse in the mouth."
Appreciate it like you do the son who gave it to you on Father's Day
Use it and think of him. "Don't look a gift horse in the mouth."I definitely do. I treasure that knife that my son gave me more than all of my others put together. There are no issues with the knife my son gave me anyway; the lock bar is perfectly flush open and closed. I guess my point was trying to figure out what about Buck’s design makes it difficult for them to get flush lock bars when the $20 non-Buck my son gave me has a perfectly flush lock bar while opened and closed. I just wondered if it was the “kick” on the tang of the blade on the Bucks that made it difficult to get the lock bar flush while open and closed, as opposed to other methods of preventing the blade edge from hitting the lock bar, like a stop pin. Just curious really. I still love my Bucks, regardless.Depends upon if you buy a knife to use or to look at. Since the knife is $20, it's to use and there is no "issue."
Appreciate it like you do the son who gave it to you on Father's Day
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On the cheaper knives I’ve seen that did have flush springs and lock bar they were ground down and the back spring / lock bar was very thin. Yeah it looked nice and clean but that thin lock bar is scary. I’d rather have a strong and secure lock bar than one that just looks nice. Looks nice doesn’t always mean it’s well made, strong and durable. Looks are also fleeting if it gets used regularly. How many cutlers have closed their doors because they tried to satisfy a very demanding customer base when you can’t please everyone all the time. And I’m thinking the first pocket knives made were a far cry from what we have available now. I’m satisfied with strong well made, durable, dependable and lifetime warranty knives for a decent price.I definitely do. I treasure that knife that my son gave me more than all of my others put together. There are no issues with the knife my son gave me anyway; the lock bar is perfectly flush open and closed. I guess my point was trying to figure out what about Buck’s design makes it difficult for them to get flush lock bars when the $20 non-Buck my son gave me has a perfectly flush lock bar while opened and closed. I just wondered if it was the “kick” on the tang of the blade on the Bucks that made it difficult to get the lock bar flush while open and closed, as opposed to other methods of preventing the blade edge from hitting the lock bar, like a stop pin. Just curious really. I still love my Bucks, regardless.
GPyro
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Well said.
I've seen knives that look good, but I wouldn't trust them to field dress a whitetail deer.
And if I don't trust them, I won't carry them.
I trust my BUCK.
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That explains a lot. This makes more sense to me now. I wasn’t understanding that the cheaper knives were being ground down in order to make the fit and finish look better while also weakening the knife at the same time. I would much prefer a strong knife to one that just looks good, also. I’ve carried a 503 daily for many years. I’ve tried many other styles/brands, but I always come back to it for my daily pocket knife. Thanks for the explanation. It was genuinely helpful.
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If the rocker bar is flush in one position and not in the other, no amount of grinding will make it flush in both. The shape of tang of the blade would have to be changed. My 501 has a recessed rocker bar when the blade is closed and if I took it to the belt grinder and made it flush, the rocker bar would be proud when it's opened. I'll be honest and say that I think Buck should do better. Yes, the knife cuts things just fine the way it is, but this is a knife that I carry because I like nice things and I like Buck knives.