Questions about mosaic damascus (from my wife!)

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Feb 2, 2002
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Yeah, you read right! A question about mosaic damascus from my wife because I can't answer it:eek:
My wife was looking through the newest BLADE Magazine and she asked me how it is possible to put real pictures (in this case small dragons) in damascus steel. I explained her about welding different steels to get different patterns. It was clear for her that one can make patterns, but real pictures:confused:
Actually, I got confused myself and would like to know the process!
Thanks for your answers!
 
Another example of this is the 25th Anniversary Delica from Spyderco... the company icon, the bug, is in the damiscus bolsters... hand done by a maker(can't remember which one)...
 
I'd like more details too, but I believe shim stock is used in cookie cutter style (on edge) to make the various animals and/or objects, and then filled with powdered metal and brought up to melting heat in a sealed steel box.
 
If I remember right a "wire" EDM machine is used to cut out the shapes. I may be wrong in the case of those little dragons in that magnificent folder by Shane Taylor because I don't know if he used that particular method or not, but I do know this particular machine is used for similar applications in mosaic damascus.
 
What about the knife on the cover of Kovals 02/03 catalog? Theres a face of some sort on it, very defined in one spot, like the EDM method was used, but the pattern seems to be through out the blade. Was the maker just that damn good? :)
 
You guys are all correct. Although I dont do many pictures I know how it is done. Im not sure if Shane used the (wire) EDM for the dragaons but pictures can be done that way with upmost presicion and detail. if you are lucky enough to know someone with one. They cost a fortune. The most common way and easiest is in a cannister with pure nickel and various steels including various powder metals. Make the picture you want from the sheet nickel, remember to always look at mosaics from the end view. Lets say for example 2" x 2" x 4" Cannister of mild steel. place it in the cannister and fill the remaining voids with anything else you want to place into it. Leave some room for powder metals to finish filling it up to the top, place some cardboard in to burn trapped oxygen (the killer of welding) and weld a lid on the cannister airtight. Forge weld and draw it out keeping it square as you are drawing it so the picture doesnt distort very much, Remember we are only concerned what the end view looks like so far. When it is approx. 4 times its original length I cut it into 4 equal lengths, grind off the mild steel canister and restack them and forge weld them. Now there are 4 pictures 1/4 their original size and in a nice square shape (from the end view) This billet can be drawn out to about 1 1/2 inch square (end view) and accordian cut and flattened into a blade. Now the end view is on the side of the blade along with some interesting stretch patterns thanks to the accordian cutting. Very dramatic at times. This is why I need therapy. Its way too habit forming for the man with other responsibilities and loved ones to attend to.

Note the billet doesnt have to be drawn out and cut into 4 pieces unless you want everything smaller and more of them. Many call this the "dry method of forge welding as there is no flux used insde the cannister. I donot use a cannister the second weld when welding the 4 billets together although you could especially if you wanted to make more pictures or add more steels and/or powder metal.

This may sound complicated. There are so many variations to make it even harder to understand but once you ruin a few and learn from your mistakes it all starts to make sense.

A forging press with squaring dies and drawing dies is almost mandatory to keep the billet square and prevent the picture from deforming too much.

OK I will stop rambling,
 
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