Questions about new wetterling axe

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Dec 13, 2003
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Hello everyone, this is my first post in this part of the forum. I just took delivery on a new wetterlings large hunting axe that I purchased on eBay. When I inspected the bit end I noticed that the grind seems to be pretty convex on one side and rather flat on the other. The instructions that came with the axe state that you should grind your axe regularly. It says to use a diamond hone or a water cool grindstone. and that you should never use an emery-wheel or file because a file can increase the risk of breakage in the steel. I have never owned an axe before and I want to make the grind even on both sides but I am at a loss as to how I should do it. I whould greatly appreciate it if I could get some advice on how I can make my new axe ready for use.
 
Captainfalcon,


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get yourself a large, coarse sharpining stone. Gransfors bruks sells "puck" stones that are shaped like, you guessed it, hockey pucks, with coarse and fine on opposite sides and a handy rubber base for holding it.
Never used it but I hear it works like a dream.
I would hold it between my knees, edge out and handle down while sitting, and being careful not to slice yourself grind away with the stone.
puck.jpg

"A circular stroke is easiest to use when sharpening an axe. A coarse stone is probably all you need, but you can keep on with finer stones until you can shave with it."
 
I just took delivery on a new wetterlings large hunting axe that I purchased on eBay. When I inspected the bit end I noticed that the grind seems to be pretty convex on one side and rather flat on the other.
Some Wetterlings are very good but their quality is less consistant then Gransfors'.

On an average axe you'd want a symmetrical convex edge. Now the tool to make it depends how much steel is to be removed.

Axes can be sharpened with knive sharpening tools: stones, hones, steels, mouse pad method... Difference is that you'll generally drag/push the stone rather than moving the axe (as opposed to pushing knife on a fixed stone). File works like a very coarse stone. Should be careful when using it as it is pretty "easy" to remove too much.

If there is a lot of matter to be removed, belt sander would be easier, or water cooled wheel.

You should favor the "auto" convexing methods (mouse pad...) but size of blade makes "free hand convexing" easier.
 
Thanks for the good advice. I think I'll use the puck to take material off the side that is to convexed then i'll use the mouse pad method to convex both sides.

On another note in one of the reviews that I read about the wetterling brand axes. was that they had some sort of varnish on the haft. The one that I have doesn't have any varnish or finish on it. What do you think is the best method to
"finish" the haft.
 
The one that I have doesn't have any varnish or finish on it. What do you think is the best method to
"finish" the haft.
I would lightly sand with fine grit paper and treat with a few coats of Boiled Linseed Oil. Buff with old burlap or clean cotton towel between coats.
 
Hello everyone, this is my first post in this part of the forum. I just took delivery on a new wetterlings large hunting axe that I purchased on eBay. When I inspected the bit end I noticed that the grind seems to be pretty convex on one side and rather flat on the other. The instructions that came with the axe state that you should grind your axe regularly. It says to use a diamond hone or a water cool grindstone. and that you should never use an emery-wheel or file because a file can increase the risk of breakage in the steel. I have never owned an axe before and I want to make the grind even on both sides but I am at a loss as to how I should do it. I whould greatly appreciate it if I could get some advice on how I can make my new axe ready for use.

How can using a file increase the risk of breakage? I have never before heard this !!!!:confused:
 
How can using a file increase the risk of breakage? I have never before heard this !!!!:confused:

My guess would be that if you left deep gouges in the steel from filling, they would create stress risers.

Leo
 
Nice tips, I just got my wetterlings hunters axe today (from bladematrix, someone from these forums suggested them) and I'll use that sharpening advice also, thanks guys.

2pqry88.jpg
 
It is pretty nice, about as sharp and angled as I'd want an axe to be. Now I am no expert, I'm sure it's not perfect and some may want that but to me it's an "axe" and just right for the things that I want it to do. You can tell it was hand ground and I like that. If I want, it would be easy to work on, hope that helps.

4bi9sup.jpg

3zu2ryc.jpg
 
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