Questions about the washboard

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jla3156

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Jan 20, 2014
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I've been thinking about getting the washboard but I want to make sure it is the right way to go. How does it do with steels like vg10 or s30v and can the sand paper handle stuff like zdp or m4? Also, how well does it work for reprofiling?
 
jla3156 said:
I've been thinking about getting the washboard but I want to make sure it is the right way to go. How does it do with steels like vg10 or s30v and can the sand paper handle stuff like zdp or m4? Also, how well does it work for reprofiling?
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Hopefully some folks that have one and have used it on ZDP or M4 can chime in. One of the owners told me he was getting excellent results on his ZDP, but I cannot personally vouch. Vg10, s30v are easily handled using silicon carbide sandpaper. I prefer Gator brand over 3M but the 3M works fine, Gator works a little better and lasts a lot longer.

For serious reprofiling, you will want a rougher paper than what I send it with, maybe 180 or 120 ( I send 320 and 600). It can do a ton of work with those grit levels. I've hogged down and convexed a couple of hatchets and many pocket/belt knives, still on my first sheet of 120 and 180 respectively. As long as one uses light pressure and takes care to clean/unload the paper frequently with an eraser or crepe rubber, it will last a long time and do a ton of work for you.

I describe the finish on my compound at approx 4k JiS, and with a bit of finesse you can get closer to a 6k finish. On higher vanadium carbide steels if a higher finish is desired, I strongly recommend getting some diamond lapping film. The newest Washboard version has a base that doubles as a substrate pin down system and can hold down films as small as 6"x6" - did this on purpose as the 6" films are much less expensive than the larger sizes. You could easily use SiC wet/dry up to about 1k and then jump to 15u, 6u, 1u diamond and get a very bright mirror finish. Experiments I did with s30v left me with the impression the 6u lapping film imparted a finer finish than my DMT EEF, and was able to jump from 30u to 6u no problem. At 1u I could no longer make out any surface haze with the unaided eye. Many folks like to mirror polish these steels, many prefer to leave a bunch of tooth on 'em - after using mine for a few I went back to a 600 grit finish.

On D2, 154cm, and most other stainless the stock compound works great, works equally well on carbon and finer grained stainless. You can use any other grit or compound you might wish to try, I always recommend starting with the stock material. Couldn't stop myself from chiming in, will be better to hear from some other owners...:D

Martin
 
Thanks for the reply. I was thinking I would need courser paper to do reprofiling. I was also thinking about pairing the washboard with maybe a 6k JWS (or higher) for a nicer finish when I want it.
 
For common steels I'd recommend just switching to a finer compound. There are plenty of aluminum oxide based or chromium oxide based materials that will work very well, have tested a bunch of them and most work great. Did some work with the Formax microhoning compound sold at Woodcraft, Flexcut Gold, Ryobi white, the older Sears white. Part of what it does best is turn those compounds into what are basically paper hones, allowing you to dispense with a variety of finer stones. Adding a single extra sheet of paper will tame them even more. Very easy to customize your results. If gunning for a real high polish the only other recommendation I'd make is to stay on the wet/dry to 2k and move to the finer compounds from there - will work a little better.

You could always try finishing with a fine polishing stone, but I'd hold off on buying one if you don't already own till you're sure the WB can't produce the finish you're looking for.

Martin
 
Pretty impressive how far a good idea/product spreads across the world even when the product itself isn't there yet.
 
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