Questions concerning Black Bear Quenching Oil #100

Diomedes Industries

Diomedes Industries

Joined
Mar 19, 2007
Messages
7,440
Hello all.

Today I bought a blade kiln (Paragon KM 24) from a person who wanted to make knives, but never began. They had a 5 gallon pail of Black Bear Quenching Oil #100 and gave it to me. I called a place that sells it and they told me it was formulated for quenching 01. I know that 01 likes a medium speed quenching oil (such as Parks AAA).

Does anyone else have any information or has used #100 oil from Black Bear?

Here is the information from the Blck Bear Data Sheet:

BLACK BEAR QUENCHING OIL #100, depending on the viscosity, are solvent refined or severely hydrofinished oils (low viscosity oils
are severely hydrofinished). These premium products are high viscosity index oils featuring exceptional oxidation stability, low volatility,
and thermal stability.


PRODUCT NAME 100P
Appearance Clear & Bright
Gravity, API 32.8
Pour Point, °F 0
Flash Point, COC, °F 375
Viscosity, cSt @ 40°C 20.1
Viscosity, cSt @ 100°C 4.0
Viscosity Index 95
Color L0.5

Thank you all so much
 
O1 is pretty deep hardening. If it was made for O1, it might be a touch slow for things like 80CrV2 or even 52100.
 
I will be using it for high carbon steels, L6, 15N20 and the like. Thoughts?


EDIT:

After looking at this article: https://knifesteelnerds.com/2021/07/19/which-quenching-oil-is-best-for-knives/

For me - I will be within one point of Rockwell hardness with using Fast Oil, Medium oil... or even Canola with 15N20.

I put a message into the makers technical team - waiting for a reply.

2nd EDIT:

I heard back from the owner of Black Bear - they do not make this oil anymore and he bought it after they stopped making it. So... it is a mystery. The dealer said it was medium speed.

We are gonna find out.
 
Last edited:
L-6 quenches pretty much the same as O-1. 15N20 is 1070 with 2% nickel. The nickel moves the nose well to the right, so it should work fine with the oil you have.

Best method would be to austenitize and quench two 1X2" flat test plates of each of your steels, sand smooth to 400-grit after quench, temper one piece of each at 400°F, and have someone test on a hardness tester. This should give you the info to plan the HT for your blades.
 
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