Questions for Lorien thread

Lorien

Lorien

Nose to the Grindstone
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Howdy all ya'll🤠
Sometimes people slide into my DMs to ask questions about how I go about designing CPKs or how I use them or how one model compares to the next. I got to thinking it would be more efficient and generally helpful to talk about that stuff in the CPK forum, as opposed to 1 on 1 over messenger or whatever.

Using knives, to my way of thinking, is the best way to inform design, so like many of you, I use my CPKs and am not shy about mistreating them.

Anyhoo, if you have any questions that you think I might be able to answer for you regarding CPKs, (I'll save us all some time and answer the most common question; yes, Nathan does wear underwear and his socks usually match) I am happy to do so.

Cheers!
 
Last edited:
Lorien said:
Howdy all ya'll🤠
Sometimes people slide into my DMs to ask questions about how I go about designing CPKs or how I use them or how one model compares to the next.

Using knives, to my way of thinking, is the best way to inform design, so like many of you, I use my CPKs and am not shy about mistreating them.

Anyhoo, if you have any questions that you think I might be able to answer for you regarding CPKs, (I'll save us all some time and answer the most common question; yes, Nathan does wear underwear and his socks usually match) I am happy to do so.

Cheers!
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I’m excited to see what you come up with, your style is unique and I dig that.
 
tinfoil hat timmy said:
what creekbed does Tanto Quantavious fish for trash in?
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Tanto is erratic and also secretive, I understand there are many creekbeds filled with the kind of trash- well, one of the kinds of trash- that Tanto is into. He's hard to pin down, so I can't give you specific directions.

If you see this lady
4zwO7br.png

ask her for directions
 
Cool thread, Lorien. Here is a question for you:

Across the CPKs that you have tried, which ones are the best throwers ? And have you tried with and without scales ?

Cheers,

Roland.
 
I like the boot dager the best, with scales. FK1 is my second favourite, without scales. DEK1 throws great but is a little light without scales. Basic5 throws great. HDFK, not so much- too much belly. UF2 is a good thrower. And believe it or not, the LC throws amazing. FK2 throws ok, but has a little too much belly.
The big takeaway about how well CPKs generally throw, is that Nathan tunes their balance in a way that creates a neutral feel and that goes a long way to understanding them well enough to throw them in a consistent way.
 
Thanks !

Here is another one for you, Lorien, I've wondered off and on .... if I would want to make myself a non-steel UF2 trainer, but close enough so that I could mount factory scales, what material should I pick ?
 
the boot dagger is my all time favourite weapon of all time- I'll just go ahead and say that right now. There are a few models that I haven't had a chance to lay hands on, so I can only speak to the ones I know and have use- without at least some physical interaction, I'd just be speculating. Of the ones I know, I think the UF2 is brilliant. Hands down all around near perfect product. But I love all the knives I designed and all for different reasons. That said, HDFK holds a special place in my heart. I think it's because it was probably my least well developed prototype, and Nathan had to fill in a lot of the blanks. That knife has a lot of both of us in it, and the success of the end product with regards to intent and execution is a testament to something that I think is really cool.
But, you know I could go on and on the more I think about it. One of the hardest questions to answer- the answer is constantly shifting
 
ferider said:
Thanks !

Here is another one for you, Lorien, I've wondered off and on .... if I would want to make myself a non-steel UF2 trainer, but close enough so that I could mount factory scales, what material should I pick ?
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Different take:

When I think ‘trainer’ wrt a knife, I’m thinking either
A) something for use in combatives training (i.e. hand-to-hand/knife fighting),

or

B) handling/manipulation practice (eg. Balisong trainer).

For A), the general priority is minimizing the risk of serious injury. To that end, we only ever used rubber trainers. Also had the felt edged ones that we used for sparring (apply red lipstick to the felt edge and it would clearly show wherever one person ‘cut’ the other). Even aluminum or plastic can potentially cause serious injuries.

B) for manipulation practice (not too common for fixed blades, but there are folks who do like playing with them), as close to the weight and balance of the real thing is prioritized, as it affects the manipulation:handling.

Out of curiosity, what were you intending with a UF2 trainer?
 
bluemax_1 said:
Different take:

When I think ‘trainer’ wrt a knife, I’m thinking either
A) something for use in combatives training (i.e. hand-to-hand/knife fighting),

or

B) handling/manipulation practice (eg. Balisong trainer).

For A), the general priority is minimizing the risk of serious injury. To that end, we only ever used rubber trainers. Also had the felt edged ones that we used for sparring (apply red lipstick to the felt edge and it would clearly show wherever one person ‘cut’ the other). Even aluminum or plastic can potentially cause serious injuries.

B) for manipulation practice (not too common for fixed blades, but there are folks who do like playing with them), as close to the weight and balance of the real thing is prioritized, as it affects the manipulation:handling.

Out of curiosity, what were you intending with a UF2 trainer?
Click to expand...

Good question, B bluemax . I guess, B) … a “trainer” mostly to avoid cutting myself when playing with it. So the balance-weight should be as close to the real thing as possible. Rounded tip, no bevel … I guess I should read up on the density of some heavier plastics or lighter metals ….
 
ferider said:
Good question, B bluemax . I guess, B) … a “trainer” mostly to avoid cutting myself when playing with it. So the balance-weight should be as close to the real thing as possible. Rounded tip, no bevel … I guess I should read up on the density of some heavier plastics or lighter metals ….
Click to expand...
that's the kind of use my answer was based on. If you want to pretend to cut actual people I agree that something flexible would be safer. The thing about aluminum is that, without any skeletonizing or bevels ground, it won't be too far off from the real deal. You could always drill and tap it, install steel bolts, cut and grind flush in order to duplicate the weight and balance...
 
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