questions on belt sander sharpening

C

cckw

Joined
May 24, 2008
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I just picked up a 1x30" belt sander from Harbor Freight. I had previously asked what one to get and after a few months of a spell with my back I am alive again and ready to carry on. So I need the full how-to instruction.

where to contact the belt (right below the top roller?) and things like that.

Also how to sharpening other things like wood chisels, etc

and how many blade until a belt is worn out? I'm planning on getting 320, 600 and leather.

ETA: I plan to only bevel edge knives.
 
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Ok let me see what I can do

Where to contact the belt?

If the knife has a convex edge, use the section that is not backed with the metal platen. If it has a standard beveled edge, just hold it at the same edge angle as with a benchstone, but never put the edge going into the belt, it will rip the blade from your hand, cut you, and or the belt. Also pull off the belt with the tip of the blade in the middle of the blade, or you will round off the tip.

Not sure how to sharpen chisels


I do not know how many blades per belt, but the harder the blade steel, the faster it will wear out the belt. also when you first start, use the leather belt first so you get a feel for it without messing up a knife, and for your first couple sharpening, use cheap knives that you dont mind messing up.
 
I mounted my 1"x30" Horizontal, best thing I could have done. I only use it for sharpening though.

I have been using the same worn out 220 grit belt for over a year now. I haven't even looked at different belts, but I have no problem going from a burr right to the strop.

I will have to check out a leather belt, quick strop time.
 
Do a Google search for "jerry hossom belt sander sharpening tutorial", that's what I used when I got started.
 
I place the blade in the middle of the belt as I like convex edges on everything. But you're really gonna have to play with it to find out what works for you. I sharpen mine completely backward from what I've read most do. I turn the grinder around so the rear is facing me. This way the belt is moving upward. And then I hold the tool edge up. This way I can see how it makes contact with the belt. Then before I turn the grinder on... I line up my blade and get a feel for the belt and the angle at which I want to sharpen. Then I turn the grinder on and go to work. I start at the tip and move down. I find this works best for me as I have a hard time transitioning to the tip. But it's easier for me to start at the tip and transition into the main part of the blade. Also keeps me from rounding any tips. I use mild pressure. Let the belt do the work. As for chisels... if you don't have a guide somewhere on that grinder you're out of luck. Without anything firm to rest against that grinder is going to make a convex grind.
 
I used the same 320 grit belt and leather belt for about a year, then had to switch to a new 320. If you don't have to rebevel the knives, then a 320 or finer works ok. If you do, 80 or 120 will work. Rebeveling some knives just takes a while, no matter how you do it.

nc527, has this ever happened to you? I've never had that experience when trying edge-in sharpening on my HF 1x30. Good belts help prevent this type of thing. If you accidentally stick the blade edge into a leather honing belt, what you describe will be exactly what happens, but I've never had it happen on a gritted belt. That said, I've switched to edge trailing, just in case.
 
Infi-del said:
I place the blade in the middle of the belt as I like convex edges on everything. But you're really gonna have to play with it to find out what works for you. I sharpen mine completely backward from what I've read most do. I turn the grinder around so the rear is facing me. This way the belt is moving upward. And then I hold the tool edge up. This way I can see how it makes contact with the belt. Then before I turn the grinder on... I line up my blade and get a feel for the belt and the angle at which I want to sharpen. Then I turn the grinder on and go to work. I start at the tip and move down. I find this works best for me as I have a hard time transitioning to the tip. But it's easier for me to start at the tip and transition into the main part of the blade. Also keeps me from rounding any tips. I use mild pressure. Let the belt do the work. As for chisels... if you don't have a guide somewhere on that grinder you're out of luck. Without anything firm to rest against that grinder is going to make a convex grind.
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That's an interesting method, but not unheard of. With a kalamazoo right? You tried it the normal way and it didn't work for you?
 
cckw said:
I would like a little more help if you can...
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Have you tried looking on youtube? I hear they've got quite a bit of stuff on sharpening.

I don't have the same kind of grinder that you do, so I'm not the best help for you.

What kind of knives are you sharpening mostly and how much?
 
myt132-cu said:
Have you tried looking on youtube? I hear they've got quite a bit of stuff on sharpening.

I don't have the same kind of grinder that you do, so I'm not the best help for you.

What kind of knives are you sharpening mostly and how much?
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I went to you tube for help with my generator carb, following those instructions worked out so poorly I haven't tried anything else that way.

I will be sharpening a bit of everything. pocket knives and hunting knives mainly. If you want to know steel types D2, 154CM, VG10, S30V are what I have. I have a rusty machete for practice.

I'll have a look at the info you guys pointed out
 
me2 said:
I used the same 320 grit belt and leather belt for about a year, then had to switch to a new 320. If you don't have to rebevel the knives, then a 320 or finer works ok. If you do, 80 or 120 will work. Rebeveling some knives just takes a while, no matter how you do it.

nc527, has this ever happened to you? I've never had that experience when trying edge-in sharpening on my HF 1x30. Good belts help prevent this type of thing. If you accidentally stick the blade edge into a leather honing belt, what you describe will be exactly what happens, but I've never had it happen on a gritted belt. That said, I've switched to edge trailing, just in case.
Click to expand...

Yes, it has. for my final convex sharpening, and for the most control, I use the edge of the belt. I had that happen once while sharpening an axe edge, it pulls it in to the edge, pulled the axe out of my hand, and split the belt in 2 pieces.
 
myt132-cu said:
That's an interesting method, but not unheard of. With a kalamazoo right? You tried it the normal way and it didn't work for you?
Click to expand...

I can do it edge down with the belt moving downward. But I can't see the edge. I like being able to watch the edge and keep the appropriate amount of pressure on it. Edge up with the belt moving up works the best for me. Makes a mess though. There is black dust on my ceiling. I have it set up on my downstairs counter with a sink next to it. That way I can run the blade under cold running water if I need to cool it down. I find heat builds up faster with finer grit belts as they are polishing more than removing material.
 
You must have some good eye protection too! It seems like it would be harder to keep accurate angles if I couldn't see the distance between the spine and belt, but I'm going to have to try it now. I don't have to worry about making a mess in my shop, trust me. :)
 
I picked up a HF 1x30 sander recently but the main pulley that attaches to the drive shaft of the motor was only held on by friction and kept working its way off! Got a return label and I'll be trading it in for a new one. Anyone else ever hear of that or am I the only one? :confused: At any rate I can't wait to give it a go! I've got all my belts waiting! :D
 
myt132-cu said:
You must have some good eye protection too! It seems like it would be harder to keep accurate angles if I couldn't see the distance between the spine and belt, but I'm going to have to try it now. I don't have to worry about making a mess in my shop, trust me. :)
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I don't really watch the spine. I create sort of a rolling convex edge so I just rock the blade forward until the edge makes contact with the belt. Yeah I wear eye protection. But the Kalamazoo doesn't toss any debris into my eye. It shoots it straight up into the wheel well. And some does get on the ceiling. But the eye wear is in case something bad happens LOL.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
I picked up a HF 1x30 sander recently but the main pulley that attaches to the drive shaft of the motor was only held on by friction and kept working its way off! Got a return label and I'll be trading it in for a new one. Anyone else ever hear of that or am I the only one? :confused: At any rate I can't wait to give it a go! I've got all my belts waiting! :D
Click to expand...

There should have been a screw to tighten and hold it in place, but after returning 2 out of 3, nothing would surprise me.
 
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