Questions on Freehand Sharpening

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BladesB4Firearms

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Oct 13, 2013
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I have been hand sharpening for close to 11 years now. Unfortunately, I haven't always had the best materials to work with (Double-sided generic silicon carbide, DMT F/EF folding sharpener, and a medium Arkansas stone). With these I would be able to get a knife to a "sticky" scary sharp edge, but in an unfortunate turn of events none of them are available (theft). So I purchased a 1x30 HF belt grinder with 120 blue zircon, 320, 500, 1200 aluminum oxide, 15m silicon carbide, and leather with Veritas Green Compound.

While I have learned how to use, and like it, the edges aren't as sharp as the edges off of my father's Lansky system, with the Blue Sapphire stone (2000 grit) as the final stage. Is there something about stones over belts that just makes the edge sharper? Is the green compound 100% chromium oxide? Am I trying to jump too many steps by going from 1200 to the 0.5m green compound?

I was wondering what stones would be recommended for getting back into hand sharpening. I want to have a proper set this time, from edge reprofiling to a strop to get a hair-whittling edge. Recommendations please?
 
You would get better results on the belt sanders stopping at a coarser grit like the 120 or 320. Stropping less when you run the full progression of belts would help too, sounds like you are over polishing things.

For stones I would recommend waterstones. The 1k and 6k Arashiyama stones come to mind as a basic starter but it depends on your budget and how good of a stone you want.
 
Hmmm.. Do you mind to elaborate on what over polishing is? My guess is that it's polishing the edge so much that it loses it's "bite"? As for the stones, I was considering DMT XX Coarse for setting the edge, followed by a DMT course, then Norton Waterstones 1-8k. I was also thinking later on, if finances allow, going from there progressing up to a 30k grit Shapton. Or is that overkill? Sorry for all the questions, just never really gotten into any advanced sharpening until recently.
 
So I just used only the 320 grit on my machete and now it has that sticky bite to it.. How in the world?? It's sharper off that then it is the strop!:eek:
 
Now, I took it to the strop directly after 320 grit and it pops hair. It won't do that if I use the strop after 1200. What could I be doing wrong? It works with every blade I have except this particular machete.
 
Coarser edges will typically feel sharper because of how it grabs the skin when touched. Finer edges take a softer touch and a bit of practice to do right and because the "sharpness" comes from a smooth peak at the bevel slopes its very easy to round over with power equipment. It's easier to get a very sharp coarse edge with power stropping because you "sharpen" the coarser "teeth" of the grind pattern. The irregularities of the edge allow for a greater room of error when polishing so you don't have the issue of over polishing, though it can still happen.

As for stones you have great overlap and not much flow, 30k is also a bit pointless BTW. For most things a 3k-6k waterstone is more than fine enough with a 1k stone typically providing the best edge for 99% of things cut. I could name several good sets of stones or custom configurations that would easily handle your sharpening needs.
 
I understand the power sharpening now, thank you. As for stones, DMT XX Coarse for reprofiling, 1k waterstone after that, followed by a 6k like Murray Carter does?
 
I don't need a crazy razor edge, not much point IMO in spending that much time on the edge unless you're just trying to see how sharp you can get. My primary sharpening jobs will be done in hunting, pocket, and kitchen knives. Murray Claims 6k will still stick to your fingers without feeling teeth, and that is the edge I prefer on my knives.
 
You can get the same edge at 220 and 1000 too, sharpness is not about how fine the grit is its about how well you finish the apex of the cutting edge.

What's your stone budget and what type of knives/steels are you sharpening?
 
My stone budget is no more than $200 if I can help it. I mostly sharpen basic hunting knives, some with 420HC (Buck) some with A2 (BRKT) and some with D2 (KoA). My personal EDC is a Spyderco Tenacious in 8Cr13MoV, but I plan on upgrading that to a Delica FFG in ZDP-189. My tactical folder is a Cold Steel Rajah II in AUS-8, and I've never done any good on recurve edges like that with ordinary stones. I use the sander for it.
 
You have the belt sander so a coarse stone is not all that needed right now, a good medium and fine stone will get you a long way from here. I would not have given them a second thought 6 months ago but after a good amount of use the Naniwa Chosera stones left a good impression on me when it comes to sharpening folders and hunting knives. The chosera 800 grit and 3000 grit would be a nice choice for the sharpening you would be doing. They are slow wearing fast cutting stones that produce a really sharp edge.

You could use the 120 or 320 belt to profile and set bevels then follow up with the stones to refine things. Follow up with a strop and you would be capable of some really sharp edges.
 
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