Questions regarding micarta

[Orion's Belt]

I'm looking to make some micarta scales for my Gayle Bradley and had a few questions before I start. Would it be a a total pain to thin some 1/8th inch micarta to the thickness I want to match the thickness of the stock scales (~.11 inch)? I know its possible, but I would be doing it by hand with minimal tools. Also, what's the best way to cut out micarta without a band saw? Coping saw? I obviously would sand to final shape, but wanted to get as close to final shape as possible to cut down on sanding. I'm looking at brown canvas micarta.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Yup, I use a coping saw.

Micarta works like wood in some ways. I've found hardwood to cut much easier than soft wood like bass. Micarta is kinda hard to cut compared to wood, but a coping saw is the right tool for the job.

No power tools eh? In that case I'd use files. Proper micarta won't sand down without a lot of elbow grease but I guess it could be done. File close to shape then finish sand. The end finish depends on which kind you choose, paper, linen or canvas. You'll want some higher grit paper for paper micarta with a very smooth surface. With canvas you can finish with lower grit paper.

Post some pics when you're done.

Btw, I looked at a ton of customs before settling on a "Coke bottle" shape. I love the way my last scales turned out. Very comfy, and they look great too.

Good luck.

 

[Orion's Belt]

Thanks for the input. I better find my files! I plan on blasting the scales when I'm done because I'd like to have a decent texture to them. It's a working blade, so I'm not really looking to high polish them. I don't think canvas would take a great polish anyway.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

No it wouldn't. At least nothing like paper. You may find that a low grit yields good enough results without blasting, but if you already have a cabinet, go for it.

 

[Orion's Belt]

What precautions should I take when sanding? I know a respirator is a must when working with G10, but I'm not sure about micarta. Especially since I am hand sanding.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

That's a good question. Honestly I don't know. I do dislike the smell of grinding micarta, but I doubt that will be an issue using hand tools.

Anyone have an answer? If not I'm sure that if you ask in the makers forum they'll know.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Oh, now that I think about it, I've heard that wetting it can help keep dust down. You'll need to use SiC (black wet/dry) paper if you go that way. I'd still ask a maker before I tried it though.

 

[james terrio]

Would it be a a total pain to thin some 1/8th inch micarta to the thickness I want to match the thickness of the stock scales (~.11 inch)?

If you put the flat "factory" side against the existing tang/liners and then shape it, that shouldn't pose a problem. On the other hand, Alpha Knife Supply carries micarta and G10 in lots of different thicknesses. Give them a call and see if they have the size/color you want in stock.

A hacksaw works very quickly to make basic cuts in micarta. A coping saw should allow you to make more detailed/curved cuts. Try to use a fine-toothed blade.

I plan on blasting the scales when I'm done because I'd like to have a decent texture to them...I don't think canvas would take a great polish anyway.

Canvas micarta polishes up pretty well actually, and should be sanded to at least 400 grit. When sanded to 800 or 1000 grit and lightly buffed, it will be very smooth and clean-looking, but still show the pattern of the fabric. Bead blasting is not a good choice for canvas micarta scales... you will end up with a very coarse surface with lots of exposed threads that will want to absorb moisture and stains. If you really want the blasted texture, use G10.

Wet-sanding micarta or G10 works just fine and will indeed help keep dust under control. See this other current thread for more info.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

I'd defer to James.

 

[Orion's Belt]

Thanks a lot James, I'll definitely heed some of your advice!