Does anyone run phosphor/bronze/teflon like rat2 or qsp penguin dry,no pivot lube,just blow it out with compressor time to time.Is there an advantage or reason if so.Think I read its more likely to gum up and attract pocket lint but I might be mistaken.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
Questions
- Thread starter Maverick1
- Start date
I stopped using lube in my work folders after the first time I dropped one in the dirt and the lubed pivot area got mucked up with crud. Pouring a bottle of water over it wasn't enough to clean it out, and I still had all day at work to use the knife. Without lube I can just blow crud out with my lungs.
I've used knives at work everyday for years without lube and never noticed any issues. I figured if the washers wore out it was easy enough to replace them. The last folder I used for work (construction) was a Bradley Alias 1 (titanium frame lock with bronze phosphorus washers). It still has it's original washers and opens smooth and easy after several years of regular use.
I've used knives at work everyday for years without lube and never noticed any issues. I figured if the washers wore out it was easy enough to replace them. The last folder I used for work (construction) was a Bradley Alias 1 (titanium frame lock with bronze phosphorus washers). It still has it's original washers and opens smooth and easy after several years of regular use.
Ok so i did see that somewhere.Next question, it might be too early to say but this penguin i got yesterday,been flickin quite abit but its really sticky to open,once it breaks free its fine but feels like something is holding it back and its taking alot of thumb pressure to break it open.It looks like the very end of the liner lock is pressing against the blade too hard when its closed.breath.So if I planned on running this dry like my rat2,do i just keep flickin n hopin.Apart from lubing the pivot whats the next step or is it still too early and possibly not broken in yet?Thanks
Separate issue.Do I just assune I have to heat up every new pivot screw because its probably got lock tite on it.Im worried if I just try first without heat I might strip the bit.If I don't have a soldering tip or wood burner is hair dryer going to be enough? I don't want to use boiling water like ive read somewhere.
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2018
- Messages
- 1,668
It definitely needs to break in more. I'd play with it as is for at least a week before I thought about tinkering with it or lubing it.
I've noticed lately that many of my newer Benchmades have been coming dry, or minimally lubricated from the factory, and they run very smoothly on PB washers.
I've noticed lately that many of my newer Benchmades have been coming dry, or minimally lubricated from the factory, and they run very smoothly on PB washers.
Thanks
I'm not familiar with that knife, but liner lock folders have something called a ball detent. It's often a tiny steel ball bearing set into the side of the lock bar near the end.
The blade has a divot in the side of the tang and when the knife is closed the ball drops into the divot to keep the knife closed.
Sometimes the divot is deep and/or has sharp edges requiring more effort to open the knife.
It's possible that the opening will become easier over time, but as I said I have no personal experience with that knife.
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2018
- Messages
- 1,668
The Spyderco Sharpmaker is a great option for beginners.
To be on the safe side I would recommend a soldering iron or similar device that allows you to apply a lot of heat to a specific spot. I don't think a hairdryer will work. If a hairdryer produced enough heat to loosen thread locker it would also pose a threat to other parts of the knife.
Ok Ill have to pick up a soldering iron no big deal i guess but already had the hairdryer so thought i would ask.Thanks
I will check it out thanks.
I have a bit of experience sharpening D2 (one of my work fixed-blades is D2). I use DMT brand diamond hones. "Fine" for touching up the edge and "coarse" for fixing damaged edges.
I sharpen freehand and have been doing so for over 40 years so I can't say if my way would be best for you.
soc_monki
Gold Member
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2019
- Messages
- 1,889
No, Civivis are very high quality yet affordable. Yes, made in China, but I have 4 of them and they are very good. They have a huge selection as well. Bearings, no bearings, flippers and non flippers. Good grinds and edges are pretty thin, so they cut extremely well.
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2018
- Messages
- 4,458
Try the hair dryer. Don't force anything. Some thread locker will soften enough with the hair dryer, some won't.
Be wary of YouTube as there are a lot of morons posing as experts and all too often they spend vastly more time flicking and talking about their knives than actually using them.
I wouldn't advise D2 for beginner sharpening.
Be wary of YouTube as there are a lot of morons posing as experts and all too often they spend vastly more time flicking and talking about their knives than actually using them.
I wouldn't advise D2 for beginner sharpening.
The guided field sharpener....the preset angles,what if it dosen't match factory edge on multiple knifes?
Ive been practicing with aus8 on a dozier and a cheap stone,its not going well.I hear the d2 isn't best for beginners.Seems alot of budget folders are coming in d2 so its probably going to be a struggle for me if i can't even get the aus8 decent.