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Quetion about rivets on the 110

A

aza77

Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
268
I have seen some pictures of some older 110 knives and it looks like (I could be wrong) that some of them have flush rivets on the wood scales. The new one I have has rivets that are raised.

Am I right that they used to be flush? If so, why was this changed? Is there a reason?

The flush rivets looked pretty cool and seem a bit more refined, does anyone have any opinions on this either way?
 
the oldest 110 have pins that were put in to look like rivets
the scales were glued on
the pins put in and then sanded flush
placed by hand and eye they varry in location
 
Okay, one more question. I'm really curious to find out what the faint circles on the brass bolsters are. I saw a picture of a 119 knife that had yet to be put together and it had a hole in the pommel and what looked like a peg that was to go through it and the tang. I am assuming that's how it is at least...then it is polished down, is that right?

Is this the same with the 110? If so, how do they get it to be so seamless? I could be completely off here, and if so, what are those circles?
 
Regarding the pegs...that is why some are called "pinned" and others "barrel nut" in reference to the handle assembly method of a fixed blade.
 
I'm not familiar with "drift pins" "pinned" or "barrel nut". Got more lurnin to do I guess.

Can anyone tell me how they get it so there is no seam or space between the bolster and the "pin"? It's completely smooth and flush...how do they do that? And why is it that on some 110's it can't be seen at all?
 
aza77 said:
I'm not familiar with "drift pins" "pinned" or "barrel nut". Got more lurnin to do I guess.

Can anyone tell me how they get it so there is no seam or space between the bolster and the "pin"? It's completely smooth and flush...how do they do that? And why is it that on some 110's it can't be seen at all?
Click to expand...

trax ! sounds like ya get to be teacher again!
 
I too am impressed by the near-invisibility of the bolster pins. I have considered disassembling one of my 110s someday, but I know I could never get it back together so seamlessly.

I wish I had taken the factory tour at least once when I lived in southern Cal.

But a trip to Idaho wouldn't be too bad either.
 
can anyone answer this? Is it just a matter of grinding it down smooth? It's still hard to imagine how this eliminates the gap between the two pieces...is there excess brass that is somehow overlapping the edges of the pins? Can anyone show some pics of how its done or at least the individual pieces? Over time, do these pieces ever come apart?
 
I can only tell you how I do this...I crush the pins in place...the hole in the bolsters is ~.125+" (typically, on my knives, it ends up being .130")...I use .125" brass rod...cut 1/16" longer on each side...I use a 1-ton arbor press, and compress the pin in place...as it compresses lengthwise, it expands radially, and fills the space between the pin and bolster...then I sand and buff it smooth...

Joe Houser has described a somewhat different method used by Buck...
 
chickentrax said:
I can only tell you how I do this...I crush the pins in place...the hole in the bolsters is ~.125+" (typically, on my knives, it ends up being .130")...I use .125" brass rod...cut 1/16" longer on each side...I use a 1-ton arbor press, and compress the pin in place...as it compresses lengthwise, it expands radially, and fills the space between the pin and bolster...then I sand and buff it smooth...

Joe Houser has described a somewhat different method used by Buck...
Click to expand...

...Yep...What Trax said...:cool:
 
Trax...thanks for the reply...it definately gives me a great image as to how this process is done. Pretty cool...

Now if you ever dissassemble the knife...how do you get it apart?
 
aza77 said:
Now if you ever dissassemble the knife...how do you get it apart?
Click to expand...

..."Ever"???...Always!!!... :D

Can't do anything to it until it's apart!!! I use the arbor press and some special short pins...I already know where the Buck bolster pins are, so I put one of my 1" long x .100" hardened blunt steel pins against the Buck brass pin, and press it out...two in the bottom bolster + the blade pivot...the rockerbar pin is steel; I mill one head off flush with the scale and push that one out, too...

The scale pins are hollow rivets; the head is on the outside, the peened part is inside...I drill the peen off, and push the scale rivet out the outside...I have some round headed brass brads (1/16") that I use for my scale rivets when I put the new scale on...

Everybody has their own tricks...mine are pretty simple...
 
wow...pretty impressive...i barely even know what the heck you're talking about...but I wish I could do it.
 
aza77 said:
wow...I barely even know what the heck you're talking about...
Click to expand...

Well, at least one other member here has muddled through my ramblings and swapped drop-point 442 blades into 112 frames; drop-point 426 blades into 110 frames; swapped scales; etc...

Drop down to the other Forums here on knife making, some good info there...
 
aza77 said:
wow...pretty impressive...i barely even know what the heck you're talking about...but I wish I could do it.
Click to expand...


chickentrax said:
Well, at least one other member here has muddled through my ramblings and swapped drop-point 442 blades into 112 frames; drop-point 426 blades into 110 frames; swapped scales; etc...

Drop down to the other Forums here on knife making, some good info there...
Click to expand...

:cool: ...Yeah right...Trax call's 'em his "ramblings" but the guy knows his stuff...Couldn't ask for a better resource...:thumbup: :cool: :p
 
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