quick corrosion/blade steel question from novice chief

[ThirdTooth]

how is 154 CM on corrosion? as compared to lets say 8Cr13Mov, VG-10, 440, and S30V respectively.

-that was the quick version-

I'm working in a kitchen and I think I'll be buying a benchmade osborne rift as a utility knife (opening new boxes of foodstuffs, slicing tape for labels, piecing tin cans, and maybe some prying. easier than reaching for one of the kitchen knives each time I need to do this.) anyways, the rift seems good but I don't know much about 154 CM. this knife will be getting washed regularly (sanitation and all that) and I may not be able to shake off excess moisture every time, so it might end up closed and damp every now and then, so it needs to be quite good as far as corrosion resistance goes.

-that was the long version-

also, and other knife suggestions that would fit these requirements? (can't be anything with a skeleton frame, too hard to clean out)

 

[fatherhudson]

I use my BM 940 osborne and my mini grip in the kitchen a fair amount. Out of the steels you mentioned I have never had any rust problems at all with any except for 8cr13mov. I don't know that this is the steel itself or the fact that kershaws bead blasting and thumb studs lend themselves to quick rusting. I've still never had real rust problems, just cosmetic issues that have been fine with a swipe of oil. I think any would be fine and will survive forgetting to rinse off after cutting fruit without too many problems. Even something more rust prone like M4 or D2 would do alright, the difference for me isn't actually that i have rust problems with them but I feel the need to clean them immediately after using which can sometimes be a time waster.

 

[ThirdTooth]

I use my BM 940 osborne and my mini grip in the kitchen a fair amount. I don't know that this is the steel itself or the fact that kershaws bead blasting and thumb studs lend themselves to quick rusting. I've still never had real rust problems, just cosmetic issues that have been fine with a swipe of oil. I think any would be fine and will survive forgetting to rinse off after cutting fruit without too many problems. Even something more rust prone like M4 or D2 would do alright, the difference for me isn't actually that i have rust problems with them but I feel the need to clean them immediately after using which can sometimes be a time waster.

its funny you mention that, a 940 would have been my first choice, its hard to get a 940 in plain satin edge these days, harder still if you want to find a Canadian supplier to save some scratch on shipping :/

 

[GuinnessSynd]

I work in a kitchen and use my 950 very often never a problem

 

[The Mastiff]

without getting into the different heat/tempers which enhance certain aspects of the blade steels attributes I'll say that 154cm is a great, all around EDC steel for the type cutting tou describe. What concerns me is the possibility of bleach, or such based cleaning products meant to sanitize things. Bleach is a type of acid and not just a wet "stuff" you might put your blade away with. Any steel will corrode under these circumstances.

You would need to rinse well in clean water after contact with that, then dry and put away. Yes, this means stainless steels too.

how is 154 CM on corrosion? as compared to lets say 8Cr13Mov, VG-10, 440, and S30V respectively.

here's a chart with attributes like corrosion resistance from the giant that used to be seperate companies but now owns Crucible, latrobe, and carpenter. http://www.latrobesteel.com/assets/documents/datasheets/Blade_Steels.pdf
VG10 is close to 154cm in most areas you would want to measure. They are both premium steels in my opinion.

Good luck, and care of the modern knives is mostly common sense. Treat them as the type of tool they are and you'll be fine.

Joe

 

[fatherhudson]

What concerns me is the possibility of bleach, or such based cleaning products meant to sanitize things. Bleach is a type of acid and not just a wet "stuff" you might put your blade away with. Any steel will corrode under these circumstances.

Joe

I hate to be doctor-know-it-all but this is something that has been bugging me for a while. BLEACH IS NOT AN ACID. It is in fact a very strong alkaline (base) substance. For some reason most people on this forum don't seem to know that. I keep seeing posts about using baking soda to neutralize bleach and it's all i can do to to not bring out my 2 semesters of chemistry and write an essay on how little sense that makes. Note that i'm talking about the substance commonly used as a disinfectant and laundry additive. I believe there are other chemicals used to 'bleach' clothing but the stuff in your cleaning cupboard is not an acid.

Going back to the rust issue, I don't think you have to worry about chemicals in the restaurant corroding your knives. I've been in restaurants for years and though we still call it a "bleach bucket" we actually use a disinfectant called lobactrin (i have no idea how to spell it but thats how it sounds). This disinfectant, which is used in hospitals, is not corrosive. Even if you do still use a real bleach bucket it's going to be somewhere less than 10% bleach and won't rust your knife all that quickly. You could leave it soaking in the bucket for hours and it would be fine. As long as you wash your stuff off at the end of the day (as all chefs do) none of the steels you mentioned should pose a real problem.

As for the BM 940, if it's the knife you want, get it. I don't know what your retail options are but i can get a 940 from gpknives for about $140 shipped. shipping it to canada would only add an extra $10-15. I'm sure someone on the forums can help you out if the canadian retailers are trying to gouge you.

 

[The Mastiff]

I believe there are other chemicals used to 'bleach' clothing but the stuff in your cleaning cupboard is not an acid.

I believe they are usually based on hydrogen peroxide at very diluted levels naturally. That's what my non chlorine bleach laundry detergent says anyway.

Here's a link to the clorox page, on it there is a further link to the material safety data sheets for those with questions. Thanks for getting this straightened out Fatherhudson.

Joe