quick field report - 18"AK, 21"GS, 16"WWII

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Jun 8, 2004
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16 WWII. I know that this is Uncle Bill's favorite, and my comment is pertinent to the specific blade rather than to the design. Having said that, the khuk in question was a disappointment: the very first hit on the dry log left about five millimiters long bend few inches away from the tip, around the belly, but more towards the "functional" side.

The point of contact might've been too far from the sweet spot, but it probably still should've been hard enough to sustain a strike on wood, albeit dry wood. If anyone thinks that I'm wrong here, please feel free to correct: I wouldn't have a problem accepting opinion that I misused the khuk.

I tried to fix the bend in the field, but made it worse by folding it tighter. May be that blade just didn't like me :)

21" GS. Very fine blade. Feels very lively in hand, and is a great performer with excelent balance. Very versatile: works equally well on thin, flexible branches, and dry logs; went through wood cutting tests without any problems. It seems to have a character of its own, I really don't know how to word this better.

18" AK. This one deserves a special mention. It went as a gift to my friend, and giving to a good friend always involves demand for extra confidence; even more so if the receiver lives in a forgotten hole in Northwest Territories, goes hunting and fishing more often than we city dwellers go clubbing, and will most certainly take advantage of all capabilities that the khuk has to offer.

So I went out of my way to make sure that the AK was indeed a fine piece of steel. To make long story short: it performed much better than it would be reasonable to expect, a very forgiving and functional tool/weapon. Digging holes, cutting branches and firewood - none of those tasks would leave any damage on the blade. I cut down a 2 inch dry birch tree with a single blow; the tree was very dry and therefore hard, while the blade was sharp - not quite razor sharp but close enough - so I expected to see micro damage on the edge; but there was none. Overall I spent about 15 minutes hacking away, and not every blow was perfect in terms of the alignment - the blade would still show no problem areas. Very impressive, to say the least.

Still haven't had an opportunity to test the "Monster Khuk". Don't even know if I should - tested or not, that piece is an honor to any collection :)
 
I don't know how far a 'few inches from the tip' is, but three inches from the tip and striking serious wood is a risk. The tip is made soft so it won't break off on you. I'd be disapointed too, though. It is possible yours is too soft.

The wood cutting part of the blade is further down, about where you would hit a baseball where it a baseball bat.
the repair guys will chime in shortly with what you should do. Unless there really is something wrong with the temper of your blade, it should be possible to bend it back, or grind it, and get an edge on the end once more.



munk
 
Was the WW2 a Bura? I have had 2 difft. Bura blades bend in a similar location. I think sometimes his khuks sweet spot is too small. Like about 3"
 
My experience has been that when the edge "bends" from a hard impact, that it is because of the edge geometry, not just the hardness. Yes, it is probably too soft. But a hefty flat or convex grind usually holds its shape better, even if it's soft.

Can you tell us more about the thickness of the edge at that particular spot?
 
Daniel Koster said:
My experience has been that when the edge "bends" from a hard impact, that it is because of the edge geometry, not just the hardness. Yes, it is probably too soft. But a hefty flat or convex grind usually holds its shape better, even if it's soft.

Can you tell us more about the thickness of the edge at that particular spot?

I agree. A thicker softer edge won't bend as much as a thinner softer edge.
However with the ones I have messed with the thinner more well tempered convex edges cut way better. So the ones I have taken the edge back further on where they bent seemed to sacrifice some efficiency in giving them more durability
 
to munk: just remesured it, congrats on a good assessment: the bend is 3 inches (avg. length of a pointing finger) away from the tip at it's furthest point, and about 8 mm long.

I thought it was safe because the other side of the blade is already almost full 3/8 inches thick at that point.

to Daniel Koster: it's out of the box, seems fairly thick yet sharp enough to take it to the woods (not razor sharp, but close enough) I didn't do any additional sharpening work on this blade.

to hollowdweller: Yes, it's by Bura. It's good to know about specifics of different blades :)
 
I've a 25" AK that did the same thing. It disapointed me. But the sweet spot on the blade is hard, and the thing cuts wood. I'd rather have all my blades not be so sensitive towards the end, but a couple of them are. If they can cut- I don't hold it against them.

In fact, I'm torn between letting the end of the khuk go to hell, or keeping it real sharp. You figure real sharp and maybe it will penetrate rather than roll.
But I don't want to be messing with a khuk's tip all the time, either.
If it is a defensive-use khuk I keep the tip and end sharp. If not, I usually let go or at least don't do handstands repairing it.


munk
 
samoand said:
to hollowdweller: Yes, it's by Bura.

That's what I figured. I like the design of his khuks and edges the best but seems like the hard spot is not wide enough on some of his.
 
Hmm.. in light of all the feedback, I'm entertaining a thought of putting jigged edge on the top... that could work.
 
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