Quick fix for Schrade OT blade play

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Aug 27, 2008
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Like many of you, I enjoy finding and cleaning up older, well-used knives. I bought an older US-made 108OT last week. A neat little pattern, but unfortunately the sample I ended up with had a bit of play in the main blade, which is a deal-breaker for me in a daily user. I've pinched the bolsters to tighten the blades on other knives, but of course that doesn't work with the swinden key construction on the old timers.

After looking at the knife for a bit, I began to wonder...what would happen if I bent the center liner (where it protrudes past the tangs while the knife is closed) in towards the main blade? I grabbed a pair of needle-nosed pliers and squeezed a bit. The blade play is now completely gone! Still walks and talks well, but in the open position the bent liner presses up against the tang and removes the blade play. The sheepsfoot blade on the opposite side of the liner suffered no ill effects, and a knife I was reluctant to use has become my new favorite. Tried the method on an old 34OT I had lying around, with the same success. I wouldn't do it to a minty-new knife, but on a well-worn, $12 daily carry, why not? I did put a little electrical tape on the bolster before squeezing to protect it from scratching.

Has anyone else ever come across this method? I'd recommend it in any case. I'm not sure how long it will last, as I'm sure the brass will wear eventually, but I should get several years of use out of my new favorite blade.

Frosty
 
Thanks for the info. Haven't had to try this yet as my 340T is still pretty tight but am interested to see how well this approach works. Mines definitely a user and will likely loosen up one of these days so this might be a good tip to remember.

These are great little knives, worth far more to me than its replacement cost. Hate to see it leave the pocket 🙂.

O
 
I've tightened Swinden key knives in a padded vice. I had to use "break it or fix it force". The proper way to fix this is to have a good culterer convert it to a regular peen construction but I wasn't interested in that.
 
I should add... The bit that will likely break using my ham fisted approach is that a bolster might pop off, as they are glued in place that I can tell. I have an old Ulster BSA knife that lost a bolster decades ago.

When I've tightened other Swinden key knives, I taken care to ensure the entire bolster is in the vice to minimize lateral stress on them. I've not popped one off doing it this way but it's a distinct possibility.

I'm just reporting. No advice implied.
 
Unfortunately what holds things tight is the brass liner, or key slot that the assembled knife guts slide into. The act of hard use or prying side to side will cause those brass key slots to pull inward toward the blades, thus causing play at that pivot/assembly. The OP method of bending the liner will tighten up that play, but I don't think it is a long term solution.

I have even taken knives with play apart, flattened out the liner/slot, and in many cases the play will come back. It seems like once you round out or flatten that brass key slot by prying or hard use, the play will work its' way back.

The only two methods I know that work well are the one Pinnah mentioned, regarding pinning through the bolsters, or finding a fresh set of OT liners for that model and replacing them on the knife in question.
 
Unfortunately what holds things tight is the brass liner, or key slot that the assembled knife guts slide into. The act of hard use or prying side to side will cause those brass key slots to pull inward toward the blades, thus causing play at that pivot/assembly. The OP method of bending the liner will tighten up that play, but I don't think it is a long term solution.

Oh, I agree that it's definitely not a permanent solution. But it does make me willing to use a knife that otherwise would have been sidelined or sold off. Luckily I have a few other knives as options for when the blade play returns. :p
 
I've tightened Swinden key knives in a padded vice. I had to use "break it or fix it force". The proper way to fix this is to have a good culterer convert it to a regular peen construction but I wasn't interested in that.

Love this phrase.
 
Thanks for the input everybody.
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I've done similar to Pinnah only my method involves a hammer. ☺

I've placed the bolster on a hard, anvil like surface and carefully, but quite hard, hit it with a hammer. The first time I did this it was born of frustration while trying to tighten one.

I've "fixed" two this way but also will not recommend it. I believe what happens is that you bend the pivot pin. (which weakens it I'm sure) The first one I smacked is my "beater Schrade" though. I've carried it a lot and it's still going strong.

I've a pretty loose one I carry but, again, "break it or fix it", it'll have to get worse.
 
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