Quick Q: Grind on GW and AD?

TrailWolf

TrailWolf

Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
2,809
Hi All, just a quick question:

Getting ready to learn how to sharpen and been doing a ton of research. Going to get started on touching up (and hopefully not destroying) the factory convex grind on my Skinny ASH with sandpaper but, unsure of the grinds on my Game Warden (Tiger Warden) and Muddy Active Duty... What type of grind do these have on them? Is a Sharpmaker better for these smaller blades? My sharpening skills are nonexistent as I am a first-timer...

Searched but could not find the answer...

Thanks!
-Harry
 
Even if they are flat ground, if you like the convex, reprofile them to convex. I do that with pretty much all my knives now, and I love the way that kind of edge performs.
 
MustardMan said:
Even if they are flat ground, if you like the convex, reprofile them to convex. I do that with pretty much all my knives now, and I love the way that kind of edge performs.
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Thanks MM - thats what I was thinking of doing but a bit cautious. Just need to build up the courage to put them all to the sandpaper. Watched all the videos and read all the threads on convexing but I know its an experience thing...
 
Then do some cheap knives first - doesn't matter what you use. Heck, convex the edge on a butter knife if you want.

My first convex edge was done on an inexpensive folder, and then I started jumping right in to more expensive blades. It's not too bad once you've got the hang of it.
 
May be I'm just out of the times or old fashioned, but I truly prefer the old standard V grind for the edges on my working knives. After umteen million deer and pigs skinned and processed at other peoples camps and houses I found its easier to carry a small sharpening stone or diamond rod for those quick touch ups. I tend to have an EZ Lap Model M or a small arkansas stone on me at all times during hunting and camping season.

Skinny ASH has a convex grind? :confused:
 
leatherman said:
May be I'm just out of the times or old fashioned, but I truly prefer the old standard V grind for the edges on my working knives. After umteen million deer and pigs skinned and processed at other peoples camps and houses I found its easier to carry a small sharpening stone or diamond rod for those quick touch ups. I tend to have an EZ Lap Model M or a small arkansas stone on me at all times during hunting and camping season.

Skinny ASH has a convex grind? :confused:
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I agree with you my friend. Same experience, not as old or a grumpy as you but I have skinned a thing or two & v grind worked for me. :)

Those convex edges are sharp though.

If you carry a strop around you could maintain them in the field ?

But I am just a simple kydex cobbler that dabbles in knife making, wait til you all see the Pikal-I-Can :D

My skinny has a regular flat grind :)
 
leatherman said:
May be I'm just out of the times or old fashioned, but I truly prefer the old standard V grind for the edges on my working knives. After umteen million deer and pigs skinned and processed at other peoples camps and houses I found its easier to carry a small sharpening stone or diamond rod for those quick touch ups. I tend to have an EZ Lap Model M or a small arkansas stone on me at all times during hunting and camping season.

Skinny ASH has a convex grind? :confused:
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+2 Older, but I bet less grumpy:D:D however, I agree.

It's all good, just learn to do it freehand. Find whatever you like the best, diamond, arkansas, waterstones, whatever and go with it.

I started out with sandpaper/mouse with my first Rat years ago. Now, I'm real fond of waterstones, but still have the diamonds, arkansas and HandAmerica stuff.

If you free hand sharpen, no matter the medium, you will end up with somewhat of a convex edge. Reason being, you just can't hold that exact of an angle on a stone time after time and will get a little curve in there. Like, on one pass you might have the blade at 17*, the next might be 17, or 15, or 19. All close, but not exact and you will still get a great edge.

For a perfect V edge, you need an expensive sharpener that uses a clamp to hold the blade at a preset angle.

For a perfect convex, you need steady hands and a slack belt grinder.

For real world, get yourself some QUALITY benchstones, say 1000 and 3000 or so and go to town.:D:D Lower grits if you need to re profile an edge (your knives are kinda fresh to even think about re profiling), and higher grits for air bleeding sharpness. You'll know when you need higher or lower, trust me.

Get one of those Norton combo waterstones and go to town on your Schrades, it will give you a feel right quick. Get a sharpening DVD if that will help. It's not rocket science, but technique and muscle memory.

Once you have it, you'll never forget.

Rob
 
Wow - all this info is excellent - thank you guys!

So thanks to the advice here I'm thinking now of picking up the Norton 1000/4000 Combo Water Stone:

http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Norton-Combination-Water-Stones-P28C25.aspx

Seems like a very convenient starter at a reasonable price ($56) and reputable maker - just curious are there any other combo stones you guys would recommend around this price point?

Edit: Just found this combo kit which seems like a killer value with a 200, 1k, 4k and 8k stone: http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Water-Stone-Kit-P94C18.aspx

Tomorrow I have set in my mind building a leather strop and ordering some green compound for touching up... I'm going to pick up some sandpaper as well bc I know I wont be able to wait for the stones to arrive :D

For now I'll try to keep the factory V grind on the GW and AD and see how it works out as it seems is the consensus here...
 
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+1 Start on cheap knives first. I started on my wife's kitchen knives and made them super extremely sharp using sandpaper. IT will give you a feel for it, you don't want to make the mistakes on your expensive knives.
 
Just get the cheap combo first to get your feet wet so to speak.:D

Myself, I use a Shapton Pro 1000 and a natural blue Aoto ~2500-3000. Usually, the Shapton is all that's needed for a quick edge, like just before I dull it up again in the kitchen.

These stones are a higher quality than the Nortons and price reflects that, but you need somewhere to start and see what works and what doesn't FOR YOU. Once you start you'll figure it out pretty quick.

Seen more than a few run out and spend big $$$ on a say 18,000 grit finish stone that in reality has no real world use unless you are a trained sushi chef and must have paper thin raw tuna and have hand forged sushi knives. Then, a month or 2 later end up for sale. Same deal with the super low grits that are just good for really hogging off metal. At least the low grit stones are much cheaper.:D

Before you order, check out www.japanwoodworker.com Plenty of stones to look at and get ideas. Diamond, natural and manmade waterstones, sharpening films, enough to make your eyes cross and max out your CC.:eek:

Go slow, none of it's cheap, so why spend money on something you really don't need?

edit: also check out the knives section at www.foodieforums.com Tons of info on stones, sharpening, and Japanese knives. Good stuff.

Rob
 
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Thanks wetdog1911 for the info - spent a while checking that website out - its crazy all the different stones out there - its an entire hobby in itself :D

Well, I managed to find 1500 grit paper at a place around the corner - I called around looking for finer paper but no luck ANYWHERE - it baffles me that in NYC 1500 grit is the finest paper available :thumbdn:

Anyway, spent about 2 hours trying to work some dull knives with the 1500 paper but still could not get it sharp enough to cut that well, let alone shave hair... :grumpy: then I thought maybe it was the cheapo steel and gave my rather dull Skinny Ash a shot which again I couldn't really get any impressive edge on it - not really even able to slice clean the top of some paper :grumpy::grumpy: should I be able to get it noticeably sharper with 1500? I'm guessing I can...

Mea culpa.

It seems that I need a really wide angle with the ash - not like the all the videos I've watched on convex sharpening where the angle is less than 15deg - but just cannot get it - it also seems that the factory edge is an uneven convex and the angles are different on both sides - on one side the "grind" is higher than the other...

Tomorrow is another day :D
 
1500 grit sandpaper won't really remove much steel, and will more polish the edge than anything. I usually start more around 800 and work my way to 1500 if I want that real mirror polished edge.

Also, have you tried the sharpie trick to make sure you've got the angle right?
 
MustardMan said:
1500 grit sandpaper won't really remove much steel, and will more polish the edge than anything. I usually start more around 800 and work my way to 1500 if I want that real mirror polished edge.

Also, have you tried the sharpie trick to make sure you've got the angle right?
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Thanks man - I bought some 600 but will also pick up some 800 tomorrow - sh*t at $.89 a sheet, taking a while to get the hang of sharpening aint too bad.

I have tried the sharpie trick and its great and does show me the edge - my issue is that I have problems reproducing a consistent angle once I've found it :yawn:

Maybe a shot of tequila will help - the night is still young, I have tomorrow off and my gf is already passed out :D
 
Well found a Sharpmaker locally for under $45 - went to work last night on my GW and AD with pretty nice results!

Took a while to get semi-consistent strokes but now at least the blades are just about shaving sharp which is enough for my uses and leaps ahead of the factory edge... I think they need a stropping to get to the next level.

Still trying to decide what to do with my skinny ash - if I should send it out or try to take more steel off myself - its seems to be right between a convex and V grind, if that makes sense...
 
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