Quick question re: Flint & Steel

IH8U

IH8U

Joined
Mar 6, 2007
Messages
779
I'm expecting my first piece of flint in the next couple of days and have a question regarding a striker. I have an annealed metal file that I was going to make a knife out of and did start the process, but now I'm thinking of using it as my striker. I have read that the spark from flint and steel actually comes off of the striker not the flint (please correct me if I have misinformed myself).

If my annealed file is softer than if I were to re-temper it wouldn't it be easier to throw sparks? Should I just re-harden the file? or ditch that idea and get a real striker?

Thanks in advance
 
Are you getting real flint or a ferrocerium rod (which is often called a flint)? It makes a big difference.

If it's flint, then the flint does indeed shave a bit of metal off the striker to make the spark. You want a hard striker for this to work.

If it's a ferrocerium rod, then the spark comes from the rod, not the striker. Hardness of the striker isn't as important as it having a decent edge to scrape the misch metal off the rod.
 
If you didn't want to re-harden and re-temper the file, you could also get a piece of old carbon steel hacksaw blade or sawzall blade for the striker. Just about any hard (about 60 Rockwell) piece of high carbon steel with a sharp corner or edge on it can work. You could then save the file for your knife project. Hope it helps some. -Matt-
 
Thanks for the tips and yes its a real piece of flint not a ferro rod, i'm making a fresh batch of charcloth tonight in anticipation for old time fire kit.
 
A 'proper' striker is a nice idea. However there are generally plenty of old files around. (Yard sales, junk shops, neighbors shed etc). You have to be careful breaking a file into usable lengths because the broken edges can be very sharp, and if you smash it with a hammer little bits can fly everywhere. Safety glasses recommended. I just hold the file in a vice with the right length protruding then whack it with a hammer. I grind the teeth off the edge of the file to make a smoother striking surface, and I round off the corners so they dont make a hole in my pocket. I guess it is best to ensure that the edge doesn't get overheated during grinding.

I reckon an untempered (ie: fully hard) bit of file makes a great striker.
 
coote said:
...I reckon an untempered (ie: fully hard) bit of file makes a great striker.
Click to expand...

If your steel striker is too hard, wouldn't you only succeed in flaking your flint spall and not shaving the steel?

Codger :confused:
 
I fully agree with Coote. Harder is better, at least with typical steels. I like to forge them out of garage door opener springs and leave them full hard.
 
Few things equal the coolness of starting a fire with an actual flint and steel! And char cloth is a wonder for catching and holding a spark!

Best of luck with your fire-making kit! :thumbup:
 
Its got to be hardened. Its the wrenching of the slivers from the mass that generates the heat.
 
coote said:
... I just hold the file in a vice with the right length protruding then whack it with a hammer. ...
Click to expand...

Please allow me to make a suggestion. After you position the file in a vice, throw an old towel or other heavy cloth over it before you whack it with your hammer. That way you should still have two good eyeballs in your head afterward. :D
 
Hey Guys...

Codger..

Thanks for posting that Dixie link...

Now check this out!!!

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_162_195&products_id=1220

tinderlightingkit.jpg


A Tinder lighting Kit...

I've wanted one of these since forever!!
Not a bad price at $50!!

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top