Quick Sheath Making Pictorial

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Oct 26, 2008
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This is just a quick pictorial on the basic steps it takes for me to make a sheath.

1. Draw the outline of the knife that you are making the sheath for on a manila folder. Draw the shape of the sheath around the knife outline.
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2. Cut the template out of the folder. Front, back, and welt.
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3. Use the template to transfer the shape to your leather, and cut your shape. I use Wickett and Craig leather. The knife is a 100 year old W. Rose round leather knife. I used to use a box cutter to cut my leather until a local Mennonite saddle and harness maker showed me how to use a round knife.

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4. Burnish the top edge of the front piece of leather for the sheath. It is much easier to do it now versus after the pieces have been sewn together. I use a piece of antler to burnish the edges.

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5. Skive the end of the belt loop.

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6. Rough the skin face of the leather where you are going to apply the contact cement. I’ve drawn the outline in red as a reference for the glue as well as a guide to apply the welts. I also slot the belt loop for the retainer strap and sew the belt loop at this point.

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7. Glue all pieces of your leather sheath together. Once the glue has dried, I sand the edges of the sheath to even them up and get the shape I’m looking for on the sheath.

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8. With the edges even and sanded, I now use a stitch groover and overstitch wheels to create a recess for the stitch and mark where each stitch is to be sewn.

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9. I use a diamond pointed stitch awl to make the holes. You can use a dremel or a drill press and a small drill bit to make holes as well. I stitch one side at a time and start at the bottom and work to the top. This forces you to back stitch at the top creating a stronger seam at each side of the knife.

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10. Finished Sheath for Esee-4

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I didn't get into the details about image carving or dyeing. This shows that you can use tools that you already have with the exception of the stitch groover and overstitch wheels to make yourself a sheath
 
3. Use the template to transfer the shape to your leather, and cut your shape. I use Wickett and Craig leather. The knife is a 100 year old W. Rose round leather knife. I used to use a box cutter to cut my leather until a local Mennonite saddle and harness maker showed me how to use a round knife

^^^this statement^^^
Once you figured out how to use the round knife, did you find that your cuts were more precise and even? I'm really struggling with the "box" utility knife around contours and tight corners. Been thinking about a round knife but at $50+ its a big hit, as I am teaching my self leather work (with the help of a holster maker at y local Tandy leather).
 
Yes, I got much better and accurate with the round knife, but still use a box knife on certain cuts.

I hated the round knife for a long time. The only trick the saddle maker taught me was to stand up when making the cut.

I'll try to explain how I use the thumb on my left hand to help control the blade. Being right handed, when I'm pushing the blade with my right hand, I put my thumb behind the back of the bottom of the round knife. This helps control the speed and direction of the knife while cutting the leather. Of course I keep my left hand fingers out of the way and keep the knife razor sharp.
 
I've wanted a round knife ever since I saw Paul Long use one in his video. The only thing is, he freaked me out when he puts his left hand in front of the knife while cutting.
 
Jaymac, Thanks for the tips! I never really thought about standing up when I cut, I'll have to try that. I did add an angled utility knife to the drawer and it helps quite a bit.

Mudbug, I think I know the video you area talking about! If it is the same one (avenger holster), it got me wanting one too!
 
Yeah, I saw his video. He's good with his knife, but his left hand scares me too. A round knife can skip on the leather if it starts to get a little dull. I'm stropping mine every time after I use it.
 
The 2nd round knife I show on picture 5, I use for tight inside turns and corners. I bought this on ebay for $15 plus shipping. I spent a couple hours getting the blade just right. I had to do the same thing with the W. Rose blade. Expect to spend that much time on almost any knife you buy unless you're willing to pay for a Leather wranglers knife.

This video is from Leather Wrangler's. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDzJH-gUWd8 This is the guidline I use to sharpen my knife to. If you watch the tension in his fingers, he still has to put some effort into his push cuts. His pull cuts on the otherhand look effortless. I think it has to do partly because of the angle of that part of his blade. Stropping your utility knife will get it that sharp. I have a snap off utility blade that I haven't snapped or changed in over a year. The blade shines like a mirror.
 
^^^some great info here,
I accidentally "stropped" a utility blade the other day on a new buffing wheel I was trying to even up. Had the blade in vise grips with wheel running trying to face it flush. When done I just held on an angle to see what would happen. Oh boy it cuts. I keep an eye on the 'bay, they have been going higher than 30 dollars as of late.
 
Thanks so much, I've recently been dabbling a little with leather sheaths, this should really help me out.
 
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