Quick touch-ups/honing: what is your method?

J

Jamesh Bond

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Jan 14, 2007
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When your Emerson has done some mild chores, and is no longer FRESH HAIR POPPING CRISPY SHARP, but still paper cutting/shaving sharp, how do you proceed?

To me, following the typical method of sharpening till burr, then removing it from the back, seems overkill, and a waste of metal at this early stage.

Currently, I'll just wait until the edge has enough boogery spots that it's ripping paper, then do a full on sharpen with burr. If I need an edge right away, I might lightly hone at a very slight microbevel with fine ceramic, alternating both sides, just kissing the apex. Raising the angle guarantees I hit the apex without creating a burr.

Don't seem to get much luck matching the original edge angle when using fine abrasives like ceramics, plus they are prone to creating those annoying work hardened wire edges when you get carried away. And it's hard to tell when I've actually reached the apex that way, unless I form a burr, which defeats the purpose of "honing" vs "sharpening."

Microbeveling a thick chisel edge isn't necessarily optimal cuz of the already obtuse angle, but it removes so little metal that it doesn't seem to affect the cutting, and it seems to be less wasteful than grinding away the whole edge just for maintenance....

So how do you guys do your touch ups? Asking MAINTENANCE here, not full SHARPENING.

Same as sharpening?
Slight microbevel honing?
Stropping?
What abrasives/systems/grits?

What are your thoughts on how these methods affect the life of the knife/metal waste?

Thx!
 
Last edited:
Jamesh Bond said:
When your Emerson has done some mild chores, and is no longer FRESH HAIR POPPING CRISPY SHARP, but still paper cutting/shaving sharp, how do you proceed?

To me, at this stage, following the typical method of sharpening till burr, then removing it from the back, seems a little overkill, and a waste of metal.

Currently, I'll just wait until the edge has enough boogery spots that it's ripping paoer, then do a full on sharpen with burr. Sometimes if I need an edge now, I might lightly hone at a very slight microbevel with fine ceramic, alternating both sides, just kissing the apex. Raising the angle guarantees I hit the apex without creating a burr.

Don't seem to get much luck following the original edge angle when using fine abrasives like ceramics, plus they are prone to creating those annoying work hardened wire edges when you get carried away. And it's hard to tell when I've actually reached the apex that way, unless I form a burr, which defeats the purpose of "honing" vs "sharpening."

Microbeveling a thick chisel edge isn't necessarily optimal cuz of the already obtuse angle, but it removes so little metal that it doesn't seem to affect the cutting, and it seems to be less wasteful than grinding away the whole edge just for maintenance....

So how do you guys do your touch ups? Asking MAINTENANCE here, not full SHARPENING.

Same as sharpening?
Slight microbevel honing?
Stropping?
What abrasives/systems/grits?

What are your thoughts on how these methods affect the life of the knife/metal waste?

Thx!
Click to expand...

Usually I just hold the knife in one hand and my ultrafine sharpmaker rod in the other. If it is a chisel grind like an emerson I match the angle to the bevel and do about 15 very low pressure strokes on the beveled side which seems to avoid raising anything but the tiniest burr. I then knock the burr off the back with one stroke on the ultrafine raising the angle ever so slightly so the stone is not directly flat with the back flat part of the knife. Then I do one more very light stroke on the beveled side and test sharpness. If it is not sharp enough I repeat until it is. (When I say very light strokes I am talking about basically the only pressure being the weight of the knife.)

If it is not a chisel ground knife I just do alternating stokes laying flat on the bevel with each stoke on each side. I am fairly ambidextrous so i just switch the hand that is holding the stone and the knife with each stroke which can be pretty tedious. Even doing it this way if I run my left thumb down the edge and then my right thumb I can usually feel it is grabbing more on one thumb than the other. If that is the case I do one or two very slightly raises angle stokes per side. Then I just do a few no pressure stokes to knock that micro burr off. Then finally I do a few more edge bevel matching strokes on alternating sides to smooth everything out.
 
I have a strop. Although I haven't needed it for either the RH or Super7 yet. I was taking a rug out of what seemed like 400 layers of plastic today and I just grazed the RH and I was bleeding.
 
I freehand with flat Lansky stones for blades like CQC 7 and 10 , and Lansky ceramic rods for recurve like Commander. I don't clamp the knife down or anything like that.

For a quick touchup I'll just use the fine ceramic rod for a couple passes on its own on any blade.

I'm sure when you zoom in on the edge it's not a perfect match to the original bevel, particularly if I'm enjoying a beer or two while doing it, but the end result is always razor sharp and gets the job done.
 
Instead of the triangle rods, I use a spyderco ultrafine benchstone to touch up the edge. Microbevel if i want to be quick, but i normally spend a little extra time sharpening at the same angle. The benchstone works faster for me but is definitely less portable.
 
Officer's Match said:
Strop. Can even be the chipboard back side of a notepad. Sharpen when that doesn't work.
Click to expand...

Forgot to mention that one too. Love the simplicity!

harvey554 said:
Instead of the triangle rods, I use a spyderco ultrafine benchstone to touch up the edge. Microbevel if i want to be quick, but i normally spend a little extra time sharpening at the same angle. The benchstone works faster for me but is definitely less portable.
Click to expand...

Agreed. The issue I always run into when following the original angle, is knowing when I've apexed without creating a burr. So I cheat and raise the knife just enough to bite into the fine stone a little, then "brush" 1 or 3 times, alternating sides. Guarantees I hit the apex, yet doesn't remove enough material to alter the geometry. Plus it takes off burrs too, if needed.

I always fancied myself pretty good at sharpening. I can usually feel my angles and stay pretty consistent, but I always have to cheat once I am going light, like honing or finishing. I just never seem to affect the apex unless I do! The feedback is so diminished from the fine abrasives and low pressure.
 
Thx for the details guys.

I forgot one.

Many of y'all freehand it. AWESOME. Seems like machines are all the rage these days. Cool, till they become a crutch.

I always encourage freehand sharpening. The skill is liberating and very handy, and it fits the true spirit of these knives.

Frankly I admit I kinda take issue with someone who can cut with a knife, but not at least swipe it on a rod or stone a couple times. ESPECIALLY knife people!!! No excuse!! I get the heavy grinding, and the finer points of the rabbit hole, but damn lol! It only gets complex to a geek like me. Any fool can at least make a knife cut! Believe me, for I have seen it. With my eyes...

The idea that maintaining a knife is difficult is completely mental, like your grandmother insisting her smartphone is too complex and she'll never understand it.To refuse to least learn the basics is consensual self-limitation!

Wonder if anyone will come along with something else I haven't thought of ...
 
Freehand too, on a ceramic stone, just a few passes on either a Spyderco Golden Stone or the white side of their Double Stuff. Otherwise, the Wroksharp Field Sharpener's ceramic rod, smooth side is usually enough.

Hey, what's up Mr. Bond--hope you're well!
 
To re-visit, how do you define "no pressure," or even "low pressure?"

I have a bear of a time maintaining or even matching an angle when I try to use "just the weight of the blade." Hence why I cheat and raise the blade a bit to guarantee I hit the apex.

Im talking about the weight of like a feather here. I am bad at feeling the feedback at that weight so it's easy to go too low and hit only the shoulder.

So what is YOUR definition of "low pressure" when finishing?
 
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