Racing axe/Heavy single bits

J

jpeeler

Joined
Jan 25, 2013
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261
So I'm interested in trying out some heavier single bit axes, not unlike a racing axe pattern. What pattern and/or make should I be looking for? I'm thinking 4 lbs or heavier. I'm mostly a double bit guy, so this is new territory for me. Any suggestions? I wouldn't mind buying new, but as always am looking mostly at vintage American axes.

John
 
I think that you might consider a Connecticut or a Jersey pattern axe. You'll find vintage USA made axes in these patterns have a weight 3.5 to 5 Lbs. These two patterns found in vintage USA axes would seem to be about as close to a "racing" axe pattern without going to the expense of a true "racing" axe.
Just my random thoughts. Good luck with your quest.

Tom
 
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A shop in my area stocks Council tool dayton patterns up to six pounds. I'll often take one off the rack when I'm in the store but I haven't given in to the temptation yet.
 
I have a Jersey that's about 3 pounds that I like a lot, would be interested in a Connecticut. Any makers in particular I should look for?
 
Try to find a vintage rafting axe. They are in the 4-5pound range and have a hardened poll to boot.
 
I love my 3.5 lb Collins Jersey pattern, it chops like a hoss and the long handle makes it handle with ease.
 
jpeeler said:
I have a Jersey that's about 3 pounds that I like a lot, would be interested in a Connecticut. Any makers in particular I should look for?
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I have three Kelly Conn. axes. One is a Registered, a Red Warrior and a Flint Edge. The Flint Edge is my favorite, mostly because of the slim octagon helve on it. I also had a Plumb and a older Collins. I traded the Plumb and the Collins. Don't know where you live, so the big auction site may be your best bet. Good luck.
Tom
 
I got this 4lb head for a few bucks in the middle of winter:

ifc029.jpg


Put it on a 36 inch handle:

ir1369.jpg


The axe is unmarked, but it has a high centreline and has seen limited use judging by how little material needed to be removed to get the edge profile right.

My arms are not very large, and I do not weigh very much, and this takes a lot of energy to use... that is to say, I'm no lumberjack, but I'm glad to have it.
 
I picked up a 4lb. Council Tool head for 2 bucks recently. I refurbished the head and hung it on a Council Tool straight handle. It was a present, but it felt great, took a great edge, and seemed like it would chop or split really well. And as someone above said, Council has the Daytons up to 6 lbs...that's a lot of axe for anything (same weight as my splitting mauls).
 
Double Ott said:
I think that you might consider a Connecticut or a Jersey pattern axe. You'll find vintage USA made axes in these patterns have a weight 3.5 to 5 Lbs. These two patterns found in vintage USA axes would seem to be about as close to a "racing" axe pattern without going to the expense of a true "racing" axe.
Just my random thoughts. Good luck with your quest.

Tom
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This is the best advice. Try a 4 pounder with at least a 5" cutting edge.



Axe nut said:
Try to find a vintage rafting axe. They are in the 4-5pound range and have a hardened poll to boot.
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Not a bad alternative, either.
 
Good advice, thanks all. I think a really heavy jersey or full connecticut would work well. We'll see what eBay has to offer.

Crazy question: Has anybody swung one of the Tuatahi working axes? It's not really a possibility for purchase, but I am curious.
 
I just did a search, of this forum only for Tuatahi and 4 pages of post came up. Try it, you may find the info you want.
Tom
 
I have the Council 6 pound dayton. It is not a great chopper. The head is very long and unbalanced with a short bit for such a heavy axe. One of the fella's on here explained that is designed more for pounding wedges than chopping. Makes sense to me.

If you want to get somewhat close to a racing axe experience, you need to look for:
-A nice long bit (like Pegs said 5" or MORE),
-AT LEAST 4 pounds,
-An aggressive, thin grind; with plenty of junk in trunk. Nice thick cheeks to throw the chips,
-Shorter handle (30-32").

In my opinion the patterns that somewhat compare to a racer are:
Aussie pattern - as close to a racing axe as you can get but expensive to get in N. America.
Connecticut - 2nd place to Aussie. They are usually too light to get you the full racing axe experience.
Jersey - Distant 3rd place. There are some big Jersey's out there, but most are too thin in the cheeks to perform like a racer.

Just my opinions based on my very limited experience.
 
You could try to find something similar to my Sager. It's a big beast...somewhere in the 4-4.5 pound range I believe. Huge cutting face, heavy poll. I haven't tried it yet since I re-hung it, but I imagine it can get through some wood. The steel is excellent, and took a very hard, sharp edge. Scary axe.


 
Double Ott said:
I love your Sager! It sure is a nice one. You don't see very many Sager Jersey patterns.

Tom
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jpeeler said:
Thanks Guys.

Yeah, I'm a bit of a Sager nut, and have never seen a Sager Jersey. Cool.
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Thanks for the kind words. I'm not a fan of the handle I used, so it may get rehung in the near future.

But here's hoping you can find one as well...I think it could definitely fit what you're after. I will also agree with M3mphis that the CT 6-lb Dayton feels very unwieldy and a unbalanced.
 
Bit of an update-

I've picked up a couple of Connecticut patterns- a Collins and a True Temper Kelly- both in the 3.5 pound range. Not exactly what I was looking for in weight, but man do I love this pattern! I'm not a huge fan of single bit axes (I think it's a balance thing), but these two have done very well. The penetration on both is very good, and the broad, balanced bits give a nice, even cut. I still like my doubles, but something about the Conn. pattern is very appealing to me.

Just as an afterthought- Has anyone ever seen a Connecticut pattern that was more than the standard 3.5 pounds?
 
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