radius hand sanding block/stick

GRapp

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Joined
Nov 14, 2022
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I see some radiused inserts for the Orion stick. I had seen some different kinds here in the past but can't find them now. Please help.
 
Orion has a good system. Maker material Supply carries them.

RD Knives also makes them:
 
I ordered the Orion with a few inserts from Maker Material because they also have the liners and pins I need, and they are local. KH Daily will be my next purchase if I don't like the Orion. Anyway, thanks for the input.
 
I have the kh daily 24" radius and it's much better than the rubber pencil eraser I was using.
 
Don't forget about EDM stones, They can be shaped on the grinder or a file, but will automatically abrade to the shape of the curve they are working on even without pre-shaping. No need to change little slips of sandpaper every minute.
 
I have the kh daily 24" radius and it's much better than the rubber pencil eraser I was using.
Ironically I recalled you mentioning the eraser in the past and had considered it but decided against it.

Stacy, good call on pre-shaping EDM stones, I hadn't thought of that. A profiler (not needed in this case) and assortment of stones are on my radar for purchase. However, my tool budget is shrinking now that my daughter is shopping for colleges and I foresee her reaching deeper into my wallet. I suppose I can get the stones and forgo the profiler.
 
I use EDM stones, but I also like a variety of solid backers for paper. I grabbed a piece of 416 stainless from Online Metal Supply a few weeks ago. It was 5/8" x 1" x 36" for $40, with free shipping. I'll use it over time mostly for handle parts, but I can cut straight sections, or grind various radii into pieces of it for backing. I've got little rods of many different diameters (3/16" to 1-1/2") that I use also.
 
big fan of hockey pucks for backing material
 
Most folks seem to like an oil slurry. I have big stones (1" x 1/2" x 6" from Congress) and like it rough and dry.
 
I used to use Simple Green. I have switched to the water soluble cutting oil/lubricant for machine shops. A gallon of concentrate makes 20 gallons of lube. IIRC, the bottle I am using is Jet Coolant. I also have used the coolant for my Kool-Mist spray. It worked fine, too.
 
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I also use edm stones...n series from Falcon. I found mineral oil works well.
 
On all my previous blades (all flat because I'm still a rookie), when reducing grit, I would change stroke directions so I could easily see scratches that needed more work to remove. Now, on my first radius grind, this is not as easy. Suggestions, or do I just need to quit whining and get back to work?
 
On all my previous blades (all flat because I'm still a rookie), when reducing grit, I would change stroke directions so I could easily see scratches that needed more work to remove. Now, on my first radius grind, this is not as easy. Suggestions, or do I just need to quit whining and get back to work?
Try EDM stones and only on the last grit size use paper, ricasso to tip. I use a stone in the same grit size first ond only clean up with paper
 
When sanding a blade if there are some scratches left from the last grit moving on will be frustrating. Those will show up as the grits get finer and take lots of sanding to get rid of.
Examine the blade with a magnifier very well with cross light and if there are any scratches from the previous grit visible. don't move on until they are gone.

Tips for better sanding with abrasive papers:
1) Use sandpaper like it was free - Cut it up into small pieces and toss them as soon as the abrasion slows down.
2) Use lubrication - Use water with a few drops of dish soap or Simple Green and a little baking soda as the lube for wet sanding. Rinse te blade frequently to get rid of te swark. When changing grits, wash the blade, your hands, and the water bowl. Make a new dish of water up. If you have stray grit around, it will come back to haunt you.
3) Use a hard and flat backer for the paper. Good choices are micarta or aluminum. A hard wood will work, but make sure it is flat.
4) Avoid sanding back and forth. A smooth long draw from ricasso to tip will make the best sanding stroke.
5) Use good strong lighting and wear an Optivisor or other magnifier hood to examine the sanding.
6) Wash EVERYTHING when moving up to a finer grit.

Final suggestion - try EDM stones. The initial cost is higher, and they are a consumable, so they don't last forever, but the speed and quality of material removal is amazing. I like Falcon type N stones in 1"X.5"X6"sticks. They come in boxes of 6 or 12, not as individual stones. 220. 400. 600. are a good starter set. They come in many grits up to polishing level.
Note- it is the slurry tat does half the work ( like using Japanese water stones). Use a lube and let the slurry build up on the blade as you work on it. There are special lubes, but most any water soluble cutting oil works fine ( and is easier to clean up). Many folks use WD-40 or a specific stoning oil like Geswein Stoning oil. Plain mineral oil works, too.
Grind the blade as cleanly as you can on the belt grinder to 220 grit then switch to a 220 EDM stone. Work up to as fine as you want and switch to papers at the finer grits if going for a high polish.
 
My question was more specifically changing the scratch direction when changing grits within a radius grind. I already know how to sand steel, like a delinquent chimpanzee with mental illness! I have an assortment of stones inbound.
Edit to add: That's not fair to the chimps, replace with baboon, or better yet, racoon.
 
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