Came from a weekend in the woods and used my rajah 2 to cut down some dried branches for my fire. Average thickness was about an inch round. Afterwards I noticed that I had nicked my edge in several places. My rajah is the first generation, not the new harder steel. Anybody else have issues with their edge? Tried to fix it with a couple of sharpeners and managed to minimize the indentations.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Rajah suddenly serrated
- Thread starter lagriffe
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 29, 1999
- Messages
- 9,822
I'd call that normal. Dried wood is hard stuff, maybe with embedded grit, too.
NJBillK
Custom Leather and Fixed Blade modifications.
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2014
- Messages
- 9,594
As Ed said, if they were on the ground, there could have been dirt or other harder contaminants around.
Aside from that, if it was cold/freezing, and the limbs were from a coniferous tree (pine/evergreen), they could have had some frozen sap in them, which makes them incredibly hard on knives. Like, conical blowouts over 1" in diameter have been seen to occur due to chopping frozen pine.
Also worthy of note, if this was a factory, or near factory edge (only one or two easy sharpenings) it could have been overheated during its final sharpening and you have to get through the burned edge to some "good" steel.
Aside from that, if it was cold/freezing, and the limbs were from a coniferous tree (pine/evergreen), they could have had some frozen sap in them, which makes them incredibly hard on knives. Like, conical blowouts over 1" in diameter have been seen to occur due to chopping frozen pine.
Also worthy of note, if this was a factory, or near factory edge (only one or two easy sharpenings) it could have been overheated during its final sharpening and you have to get through the burned edge to some "good" steel.
Anything ground on a contact wheel, no matter the radius, is going to be somewhat hollow. Flat grinds are acomplished in a flat platten. My question is, is this true with production knives? Anything we buy advertised as flat ground is actually... FLAT ground on a platten? Or do some brands get by with big diameter wheels?
Mikel
No idea, I don't grind knives. Just use them.You have to trust the manufacturer when they say its truely flat ground.
I can say I have chipped out more hollow grinds (BUCK) than flat (Spyderco), convex (Fallkniven), or scandi (Mora) on dry hardwood when playing in the woods.
I can say I have chipped out more hollow grinds (BUCK) than flat (Spyderco), convex (Fallkniven), or scandi (Mora) on dry hardwood when playing in the woods.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2011
- Messages
- 1,002
Make your passes parallel to the blade and it's a hollow grind. Make them perpendicular and it's a flat grind. That would be the case with
a vertical grinding wheel.
a vertical grinding wheel.
NJBillK
Custom Leather and Fixed Blade modifications.
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2014
- Messages
- 9,594
This will also depend slightly on the durometer of the rubber wheels. A softer durometer will have slightly more give towards the outside of the wheels, due to lack of support, causing slight hollow grinding still.