Rant.

J

jasperjb

Joined
Jul 24, 2012
Messages
217
Just got my 560 in the mail.
The blade is extremely stiff. I can't even undo the pivot because I'll round the screw, someone screwed it in too tight.
The detent is non-existant.
The opening feels rough and "bumpy".
I can't flick it out and if I do the lock sticks.

I love the blade once it's deployed.
 
If it came into Australia you're lucky to have got it at all and the pivot being tight would be my guess as to why you did get it. You can loosen up the pivot with a little care and the proper tool. Then the lock may even not be so tight.
 
jill jackson said:
If it came into Australia you're lucky to have got it at all and the pivot being tight would be my guess as to why you did get it. You can loosen up the pivot with a little care and the proper tool. Then the lock may even not be so tight.
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Yeah I almost ruined it by using cheap tools. Idk what to do. Just going to let it work itself in for a while.
 
jasperjb said:
Yeah I almost ruined it by using cheap tools. Idk what to do. Just going to let it work itself in for a while.
Click to expand...

It's not going to work itself in. The pivot was likely tightened so much because of your countries' custom restrictions. You need to get the right tool and loosen the pivot.
 
I've seen a lot of frame-locks that the lock-up depended on the pivot tightness being just so. I just got a Ti fluted Military and when I messed with the pivot the lock-up became loose and sticky both. (the lock would stick but the blade had play) When I tightened it back and backed it off where the blade opened easily, the lock-up became dead tight and easy to unlock.
 
Morrow said:
It's not going to work itself in. The pivot was likely tightened so much because of your countries' custom restrictions. You need to get the right tool and loosen the pivot.
Click to expand...

Right tools as in a nice set of torx bits or something else?
Going to bed. Will read all replies in the morning.
 
Go to your hardwear store and buy a bit that fits it. I've done just that before and I even took my knife to make sure. I don't know if you should do that there.
 
When I got mine, it came with a Kershaw bit driver with the size torx bits that fit all the screws, was an awesome free bonus gift from Kershawguy. I have used it on several ZT/Kershaw knives and it works great!
 
If I was you I would get to loose with a couple of jolts of a power drill with the T8 Torx bit, then tighten it down all the way by hand and loosen half a turn and it should be little butter..

As other stated it was probably tighten so hard so it would barely open to make it through customs...
 
A T9 also fits I think. It might be better to use that to get more bite and less chance if stripping the screw.
 
Thanks for all the help guys. I was just a little frustrated, I really love this knife. I will get some high quality tools soon; I can put up with it for now, plus the opening is less "rough" already. The sticky lock is annoying though and I can't take the knife apart to put sharpie on it. Time to toughen up my thumbs ^^.
 
Now thats a good attitude to have, don't give up on it, once you loosen the pivot, you will probably love the knife, it is a gem!
 
A bit of sharpie on the lockface should help out a lot. Whittle the graphite end of the sharpie down enough and you will able to get to the lock face without disassembling the knife. You can use the sharpie on either the lock or tang and it will transfer by itself. Should make the wait for tools a bit easier for you.
 
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If you keep opening and closing it, it should start to wear in, and become smoother over time
 
I wouldn't use a power drill. Hit it with a hair dryer for awhile to warm up the Loc-Tite and then use a good quality hand tool. I think a power tool will likely end up with a stripped screw. You could run it under hot water if you don't have a hair dryer but then you have to be sure to get it dry everywhere and reoil it.
 
Crackedblade said:
A bit of sharpie on the lockface should help out a lot. Whittle the graphite end of the sharpie down enough and you will able to get to the lock face without disassembling the knife. You can use the sharpie on either the lock or tang and it will transfer by itself. Should make the wait for tools a bit easier for you.
Click to expand...
I believe he means pencil. Sharpie works or use graphite pencil lead. Look where the lockbar hit the tang and while the knife is closed and you have easy access, "write" on the knife where the lockbar makes contact.

The ink from a sharpie also works. Knife oil though increases the stickiness of the titanium against the steel.

Once it breaks in after a bit of use it will be smooth without any need for those things.
 
oregonknifenerd said:
I believe he means pencil. Sharpie works or use graphite pencil lead. Look where the lockbar hit the tang and while the knife is closed and you have easy access, "write" on the knife where the lockbar makes contact.

The ink from a sharpie also works. Knife oil though increases the stickiness of the titanium against the steel.

Once it breaks in after a bit of use it will be smooth without any need for those things.
Click to expand...
Should I man up and just live with the sticky lock until it breaks in, or put sharpie/graphite on the lockface?
 
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