Ratmandu mod (DONE!... maybe)

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Sep 5, 2010
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Last week, I won a Ratmandu from KalEl as part of a really generous charity giveaway.

If I may borrow the picture, it came like this:
photo-22.jpg


I got the knife yesterday and started working on it on a mousepad-backed sheet of 80 grit sandpaper. I like swedges, but I like them to end less abruptly. I like knives with smooth, flowing curves in them, 'cause I think they're kind of sexy, like a lady. So I spent a couple hours rubbing this sexy curvy lady's spine against an abrasive using a college textbook on computational geometry vision for stability and to pass the time reading about Voronoi diagrams.
swedge%2520regrind%25203.jpg
swedge%2520regrind%25201.jpg
swedge%2520regrind%25202.jpg


This is a Voronoi diagram. Basically what it is is you have a random scatter of points on a plane, and the lines represent the points that are farthest away from the two closest points. Sort of looks like plant cells.
220px-Coloured_Voronoi_2D.svg.png


The colors don't mean anything, though there is this theorem that says no more than four colors of triangles are required to make it such that no two triangles of the same color are touching. If you think about it, you can see that it works out that way, but it's still "unproven" as far as the mathematics of it goes. Math can be pretty intuitive yet abstract, if that makes sense. (The lines connecting the points here are Delaunay triangles, by the way, sort of like the "inverse" of Voronoi diagrams.)
400px-Four_Colour_Planar_Graph.svg.png


Some other shots of the blade after a bit of sanding the finish and some sharpening. It's not that neat, but what do you expect when sanding by hand. The edge is pretty polished and I only went up to 1200 grit, but it's not that sharp. I've never managed to get a sharp edge from the mousepad-sandpaper method, but that's fine for now while I'm still handling it. I'll probably take it to a stone and give it a tiny flat bevel after all this is done.
perspective.jpg
flat.jpg
tip.jpg


The scales arrived today, a couple slabs of stabilized, dyed redwood burl cut from this block.
a207917134e3909685e21f_l.jpg


I had a tough time working these scales. I'm doing a rough shaping so far and decided to go about it by drilling a bunch of holes to outline the shape. I tried taking a small plastic model hobby saw to it, but it didn't work too well. I decided to get out my chisel from when I was into woodworking (yeah, I'm into a lot of hobbies) and started hammering away.
chiseling.jpg
roughing%2520scale.jpg


Unfortunately the wood tore out on the other side when doing this chiseling. It is a pretty deep chunk.
tearout.jpg


However, the scales are 7/16" thick so I have plenty of room to go if I want to match the thickness of the original scales, which are 1/4", so I'd have to trim down the thickness anyway. As you can probably tell from the odd method of roughing, I don't have the right equipment for shaping the handles, so I am not looking forward to sanding this down at all. I do have a planer, but I can't see myself comfortably planing such a small piece of wood.
thicknesses.jpg


I'm going with a rounded, convex polygon-ish (sorry, still have computational geometry stuck in my head) bolster as opposed to the stock scales' odd "boney head of a deformed baby quail eating food on the ground" shape. I call it a scquaile. Scale quail. Squail. Squale. I don't know.
rounding%2520bolster.jpg


I tried rotating the scale 90 degrees counterclockwise, and it looked less deformed. It almost looked like the shape of a penguin instead.
scale%2520penguin.jpg


I wasn't too sure about this so I had to confirm. I think it was successful.
scale%2520penguin%2520finished.jpg


I also tried a rockhopper penguin variation. Although they look grumpy and angry, they are still pretty friendly and playful. I saw them in the aquarium in Boston about five years ago.
scale%2520penguin%2520rockhopper.jpg


I'll also be shaping it all the way to the pommel hole rather than having a cutout there, but I'll be putting brass tubing for a lanyard.
lanyard%2520hole.jpg


I was using this leftover piece of walnut as a working surface for the drilling. My wife is kind of ditzy and naive sometimes, so when she asked if I wanted anything from the grocery store one time, I gave her this grocery list on this block of wood asking for "Superman Juice." I almost got away with it, but then she caught on and got angry at me for trying to make her look stupid in public.
work%2520block.jpg


Unfortunately, I drilled some of the holes too deep.
holes%2520in%2520block.jpg


Yep. What can you do. Didn't really like this cheap Ikea desk that much anyway.
holes%2520in%2520desk.jpg


Thanks for reading.
 
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HahahhahHa @ the penguins and superman juice grocery list! Cant wait to read more!




Also that knife is lookin good its gonna be badass.
 
This Dremel workstation came in the mail yesterday and it helped me complete everything much, much more easily and quickly.
dremel%2520workstation.jpg


How quickly? I got this done in about 15 minutes, whereas the last wooden scales I worked on took about three hours.
roughed%2520scales.jpg


How quickly? After that, suddenly this appeared.
finish%2520knife1.jpg


But trust me, you don't want to see pictures of what happened in between anyway. There was lots of cursing involved. But I did learn that there are three things you really need: a proper work area, the right tools, and patience.

Not that it turned out too poorly, but it could've been better. At least I know what to do next time.

And I really like how the handles came out.
handles1.jpg
handles2.jpg


I don't know if this is finished. I already oiled the scales and buffed it. I feel like there's something missing. The blade part looks too plain. Maybe I'll try my hand at some filework on the spine or etching something on the flat. I don't even know if it's finished procedurally, period. I mean, is there something else after to do after this?... am I supposed to ultra-buff it? Apply some super wax or something I don't know about?

Until then, it's off to Buy Brown for a sheath.
 
Gary - it looks great! if you want the handles to have alittle protection, you may want to seal it with a polyurethane - apply with an old tshirt and wipe it on evenly, 1-2 coats will give you protection maybe a little sheen, 3 or 4 will give a satin finish, more will give you a shiny finish. it should help the wood grain pop
 
Gary - it looks great! if you want the handles to have alittle protection, you may want to seal it with a polyurethane - apply with an old tshirt and wipe it on evenly, 1-2 coats will give you protection maybe a little sheen, 3 or 4 will give a satin finish, more will give you a shiny finish. it should help the wood grain pop

Cool, I'll do that :thumbup: I was going to, but then I'd have to wait until Saturday for the teak oil to completely dry before the polyurethane. I was kind of impatient so I changed my mind and went straight to the buffing. The wood is stabilized so I thought the polyurethane wasn't necessary, but the glossiness and highlighted wood sound nice.
 
Gary - it looks great! if you want the handles to have alittle protection, you may want to seal it with a polyurethane - apply with an old tshirt and wipe it on evenly, 1-2 coats will give you protection maybe a little sheen, 3 or 4 will give a satin finish, more will give you a shiny finish. it should help the wood grain pop
the wood has been stabilized which means it has been pressure injected with epoxy so nothing else needs to be applied. all you do is sand to 400 grit, pre polish with 0000 steel wool then a final polish with a buffing wheel and you are all set.
 
the wood has been stabilized which means it has been pressure injected with epoxy so nothing else needs to be applied. all you do is sand to 400 grit, pre polish with 0000 steel wool then a final polish with a buffing wheel and you are all set.

I sanded it up to 1200 grit then took it to a buffing wheel. I guess maybe it's the same thing.
Maybe the polyurethane is unnecessary... but if I do put it on, would the wood grain and features stand out more? It is kind of hard to see the beauty of the burl unless under direct light.

And for something that's been injected with epoxy, it sure still chips and splinters like wood :grumpy: I'll be more patient next time
 
Did you glue them to the tang? I'd concerned with corrosion under there. I'm a big fan of removable scales, but those look nice too.

Good work on that one!
 
Did you glue them to the tang? I'd concerned with corrosion under there. I'm a big fan of removable scales, but those look nice too.

Good work on that one!

Thanks! Yep, I used epoxy. However I did not do it so well and there are some gaps... I'll figure something out. Maybe flood it with super glue or wood putty or more epoxy.
Removable scales are great for maintenance, modularity, easiness with rehandling... but for this one I just had to try out pins :cool: however, I don't think I'm ever going to be removing these. Drilling out the pins, breaking away the wood, and sanding away all the dried epoxy are things I don't want to do.
 
Whoa -sweet handles, Gary! My vote was nearly in for the rockhopper penguin variety of handle -but the finished burl product is looking very fine and so takes the win ;)

Thanks for sharing, man :cool::thumbup:
 
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