Rattle this, Rattle that: Rattle main edge angle? setting up wicked edge

[DanR217]

Yeah, nipped my RH on something in the log I was chopping at and nicked the edge a touch. I got this handy dandy wicked edge system that I'm dying to try out (for a second time ) but I'm not really sure what angle to set it at. As much as I like learning by trial-by-error (taxidermy was fun) in my progressing age I find myself swallowing my pride and actually asking for advice.

I want to stay as close to the original profile as possible. I tried 20 degrees (per side I think, the 20 mark on each side) and I think that was a bit shallow as the marks were appearing on the outside edge of the relief, the outer edge of the relief may even have been the marks. 30 maybe?

BTW I know nothing about geometry except that it exists.

Now that I think about it these are probably sharpened by hand on a grinder? Maybe I will just have to take stab at it.

 

[=MAX=]

Take a black sharpie marker and color the edge a little say 1/2" Sharpen away until the black marker is removed, you find the correct angle quickly.
Congrats on the Hawk.

 

[DanR217]

You're a genius, thanks! I'm sure if I just read an article on sharpening they would have said that huh? Oh well, at least this way I get to brag about having one already

 

[=MAX=]

Thats what is great about the Internet and especially this website you can either ask or just search for info.
Hey post some pics of your RH when you get a chance we would all love to see it.
Cheers!

 

[DanR217]

I got a new camera, need to find a few AAAs but as soon as I do I'd love to share some. I'm up here in the mountains so a quick run to the store is a three hour trip.

The wicked edge doesn't work, I think there's too much length between where you set the handle and where the blade is, I just did it by hand with the WE's diamond stones. I like my contraptions but it's good to know you can always do it by hand.

Lovin the sharpie trick, so much easier to tell where the fresh marks are.

 

[chiral.grolim]

Yeah, nipped my RH on something in the log I was chopping at and nicked the edge a touch. I got this handy dandy wicked edge system that I'm dying to try out (for a second time ) but I'm not really sure what angle to set it at. As much as I like learning by trial-by-error (taxidermy was fun) in my progressing age I find myself swallowing my pride and actually asking for advice.

I want to stay as close to the original profile as possible. I tried 20 degrees (per side I think, the 20 mark on each side) and I think that was a bit shallow as the marks were appearing on the outside edge of the relief, the outer edge of the relief may even have been the marks. 30 maybe?

BTW I know nothing about geometry except that it exists.

Now that I think about it these are probably sharpened by hand on a grinder? Maybe I will just have to take stab at it.

For "aligner" sharpening systems like the Wicked Edge or the DMT or Lansky Aligner kits, the angle settings assume a specific blade-height (spine to edge), usually 1 - 2", where the clamp holds the blade. The angle setting is only accurate for THAT spot on a blade THAT wide. As soon as you move the arm away from 'point 0' (the clamp) towards the tip or handle, the angle changes.

So if you are a stickler for keeping a specific angle all the way along the edge, using one of these aligner kits won't help you.

Instead, you can either sharpen free-hand or use a 'crock-stick' set-up where the abrasives are held at a specific angle and you move the BLADE along them. The Sharpmaker is a complex version of this where you can switch out rods and the angle settings; simpler tools have rods set at a permanent angle.

Either way, the best way to match an already existing edge-angle or determine your progress in establishing a new edge angle is by "painting" the edge as already mentioned, though I prefer to use a RED marker as it stands out MUCH better.

Good luck! You may find that you are better at free-hand sharpening than using the aligner system. Also don't feel compelled to follow a restrictive method if you find something else that works for you. For example, I was taught to always set the hone on a flat surface and move only the blade. No when I free-hand, I usually hold the hone in one hand and the blade in the other, moving each as is most comfortable for me to maintain the angle and consistent pressure. As long as you can maintain your angle and pressure, you will succeed at establishing your edge... provided you are using the proper abrasive.

Which leads me to mention that, if you haven't found this out for yourself yet, SR101 is very hard and abrasion-resistant! Reducing an edge from 30dps to 15dps by hand takes a LOT of work. Use diamonds and start with a LOW grit when knocking off bevel shoulders or otherwise removing a lot of metal.

Again, good luck and feel free to ask more questions :thumbup:

 

[DanR217]

Thanks chiral, tons of good info :thumbup:

I ended up just using the w.e. hones free hand, worked great. I'm just always after that machined perfectness that I can't seem to do by hand, plus having an exact angle (you're making me think twice about that though) and trying a new technique is alluring. I've tried a sharpmaker (think I still have the base and ceramic hones somewhere, lost the others I guess) and I didn't really like it that much. I feel like I can get a more consistent angle if, like you said, I can move the blade and hone.