Raw hide sheath

M

Madnumforce

Joined
Jan 15, 2007
Messages
90
I don't know if i'm in the right place for this thread, but here is a little idea i've had.

Kydex is a very handy and strong material to make sheaths, but it's somewhat expensive, and not so easy to find. What i've been thinking to is using raw hide. Dry, it's extremely tough and rigid, but wet, it can be formed and shaped, just like hot kydex. Once the sheath would be properly formed, to avoid humidity to make it become soft again, or even to rot, it can be oiled and waxed. It would be easily dyed, or even painted. The thing is: i don't know where to find raw hide, that's why i could not test this idea.

Have any of you already tryed it?
Or simply, what do you think about it?

Thanks for you advices and opinions.
 
Thanks for the links. I did not even see there was a sheath forum on Bladeforum. I was personnaly thinking using raw hide really like kydex, to make a slim and light sheath (well... for my CGFBM, which is heavy enough :D). It seems wet raw hide would even be flexible enough to do a sheath folded around the spine.
 
If you are looking for kydex, you might think about heading to an automotive scrapyard. For years kydex has been used for dashboard panels and interior side panels. Your idea about a rawhide sheath is an appropiate one, rawhide shares certian properties with kydex. You might check your local pet store for the rawhide, it is commonly made into chew toys for canines.
Thansk,
Del
 
Interesting tip about the kydex... i was totally ignoring that. That might be usefull.
I had already heard about the chew toys for pet, but i guess there won't be anything large enough to make a sheath for a FBM. It may be suited for smaller knives, though, and maybe i could contact the makers... I'll dig it.
 
Delbert is right about the dog bone chews. If you buy a large bone, saw the ends off, soak in hot water until it is pliable --- you can stretch it out & nail to a board to dry. Obviously , your next step requires you to cut out your premade pattern, sew it up, soak & allow to dry with knife in sheath. Precautions should be taken such as wrapping knife in heavy plastic bag close to size of knife.
 
I bought a decent size chewing bone, and put it to soak. We'll see what happens... and if i can do a proper sheat with it.
 
Using rawhide as the only piece can work but I'd recommend using a center seam back style - putting and keeping a welt in a rawhide only sheath is difficult at best.
I have made a bunch over the years though so any help I can offer ask away.....
 
Wild Rose said:
Using rawhide as the only piece can work but I'd recommend using a center seam back style - putting and keeping a welt in a rawhide only sheath is difficult at best.
I have made a bunch over the years though so any help I can offer ask away.....
Click to expand...

What do you mean? A welt for the spine of the knife, or a welt to rivet/seam, along the edge? And what you call "center seam back style sheath", is it one piece folded, but with a kind of intercalary along the edge, or two sides, with an intercalary runing all along the spine and edge? Sorry for all the questions, but i'm not used with sheathmaking vocabulary.

And thanks for the help offer! :thumbup:
 
Thats cool info about KYDEX use in Auto,s. How would one I.D. the pieces that are Kydex ?
 
Madnum - I'll have to get back to you later - I'm up to my ears in work tonight and tomorrow.
Meanwhile go here http://www.knivesby.com/knifemaking.html and scroll down to the sheath making section and read the various tutorials which should teach you some of the basics of sheath making and the terminology used by makers.......
 
I'll just add that rawhide over a wooden core makes an excellent sheath. Using the center back seam works best.
Stacy
 
These damn chew toys are long to soften! They soaked in "cold" water for about 24h, and there is still very rigid places. I found that only the outer layer is really usefull, which is 6"x9" and about 4mm thick at least, the rest is small strips and various cut waste of the bigger piece. I sure can make a sheath in, but not for the FBM...
There is a press where i work, i really think i will let it dry under some pressure to flatten it. But i've found a buffalo breeder right here in France, he sells the salted skin, which is certainly close to rawhide i guess, for less than 200$... it's about 4 square meters! I asked for some informations, but now it seems i'm gonna have serious material to make with. Mmmmhhh.... maybe better test on my small chew toys piece first...
 
Gotta have strong teeth!

And finally, i put it in hot water... maybe too hot, cause it rolled a bit. It's just like fresh skin, it have to be treated carefully. My arm wouldn't be happy if i poured some boiling coffee on it also. I should better have waited a bit more with cold water... Well... we learn from our mistakes!
 
Hey, i just took it all off the bath and checked it up. In fact, i have been doing skin glue! Some of the smallest strips and thiner other wastes turned like jelly. I guess the long bath first softened the tissues, and then the hot bath melted the collagen of the skin! Some parts had certainly been heated during the fabrication of the chew toy and did not melt or turn as much into jelly, but i'm happy i've found a really cheap way to make skin glue, if i just put it in a sauce pot to reduct. Well... once i'll have a proper peace of rawhide to make a sheath, i could use it for some light assembly.
 
You can use dog chews if you like, but they are not the same as leather work grade rawhide ( many are made from nearly rotted hides from the slaughter house. They get boiled to remove the hair,rolled or tied into shapes, then boiled in with the bones to give it flavor....not what I would use for a sheath). Get a piece of real rawhide on ebay or from a buckskinning supply and do yourself a favor. A soak in 100F water is all you will need. Don't boil it or you will be making armor.
Stacy
 
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