Rawhide for scabbards ?

ddean

ddean

Joined
Mar 26, 2002
Messages
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Damp/wet rawhide is very flexible/soft.
Dry rawhide is like plastic.

I'm still sitting on (figuratively) a rawhide hide
that I want to form-fit to a khuk.

Just to see.

Found a 1975 book called "Indian Rawhide" that mostly
reviews decoration of folded rawhide containers among
many North American Tribes.
But it also has some info on crafting with rawhide.

It says that the traditional buffalo (bison) hide has
unique characteristics that cow or other rawhides can't duplicate.

But, "Nothing ventured, nothing gained."

Found another reference (on lariat construction)
that cow rawhide needs to be heavily greased to
soften and waterproof it.

Other references to hardening leather/rawhide
by VERY careful heating in water,
just right gives 'plastic',
too hot makes brittle.

Sounds like many experiments.

Anyone have any experience to share?
 
I have two fresh, unchewed, large dog chew toys, which are made out of rawhide, soaking in a bucket of water. I've already got them soft enough to untie and unravel them.

I'm going to see if it's practical to wrap my original khukuri sheath in rawhide.
 
Originally posted by mrostov
large dog chew toys, which are made out of rawhide, soaking in a bucket of water.
Click to expand...
Tried that with some flat-rolled chewies.
Once unrolled the rawhide was so buckeled
that I couldn't easily flatten it.
Gave up & bought a piece of cow from Tandy.

Lots of the toys also have lots of holes
& irregular thickness inside.
Hope you're more lucky in the piece you get.

Soak it Very long & mine got Very slimy.
Also, -long- soaking seemed to weaken it =substantially=.
As in, tears apart like wet cardboard.
Don't know if it recovers all the strength when it dries.

Let us know how it goes.

BTW, The white opaque rawhide has been bleached.
The brown translucent rawhide is untreated.
I suspect the latter is stronger.

To get it thin enough for best wrapping,
it might be necessary to flatten & dry it,
then sand down the -inside- to a thinner, even thickness.
This is how -real- 'parchment', was/is made.
The strength of the rawhide is in the hairside layers.
 
Thanks for great links.

A quick browse found an answer to Firkin's question----
Incidental moisture / humidity should not be a problem,
& rawhide does have a significant history of
use as scabbard/sheath material.

I bet a proper treatment (material or heat) of the rawhide
would answer any further problems with moisture.
 
Hmmm, has enyone ever tried fiberglassing either the original scabbard and it's cover or just fiberglassing a whole new covering on the wooden clamshell interior pieces?
 
Originally posted by mrostov .... fiberglassing either the original scabbard and it's cover or just fiberglassing a whole new covering on the wooden clamshell interior pieces?
Click to expand...
Good idea.

For matters of wood swell, probably want to do it in a way that allowed fit adjustments.

Maybe fiberglass exterior of each half seperately,
then fit them together with a couple of loose interior pegs
& exterior binding of some sort.


Or,

Just leave off the covering and finish like you would a grip.
Oil or 'superglue' or ???
Then peg & binding.
 
works a charm. Soak in warm water til saturated. Fit or stretch over form (wooden or plastic, NOT high-carbon steel) Secure in place...with anything from tacks to a weight that secures it, to (should you choose, drilling holes and threading more rawhide line through.) Allow to dry thoroughly.

trim edges as desired. I have subsequently painted/soaked it in spar varnish, or polyurethane varnish to avoid humidity or rain softening it.

I've used deerskin...dehaired. Never cowhide.

Happy trails.
 
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