Rawhide sheath tutorial

WOWZERS!! Very impressive work.....I'll try that some day...:thumbup:
Thanks for sharing your tutorial with us.
 
Outstanding. Thank you so much for sharing that. I have messed with trying to make sheaths in that style but never have I had anything that ended up looking as good as yours.

Thank you again,
SDS
 
Those are some great instructions. I just finished one up following that and I'm excited about how it turned out.

Thanks,
SDS
 
Howdy John - great tutorial, but one suggestion if I may.
I had problems with moisture soaking through the leather liner and ending up against the knife - at times causing rust or the sheath shrinking a bit too much well after I thought it was completlely dry (Keith M should remember one of the latter :grumpy: ).
My "solution" is to seal coat the outside of the leather liner with a fast drying polyurethane before attaching the rawhide. Done thoroughly (sometimes takes 2-3 coats, light coats are best) it prevents any moisture seeping through to the inside of the leather liner and it doesn't hurt the leather - something to think about anyway.
Of course then you have to let the rawhide dry completely before adding your outside seal coat - you can't add it while wet.
FWIW - In deference to the Old Ones I use either real old time Spar Varnish or my own homemade linseed oil based varnish for this outer seal coat... it takes longer to dry, but I like it better......

While the dog chews are a source for rawhide, it is cow rawhide which in my experience is much harder to work with than deer, elk, or buffalo - all of the latter can be mail ordered from Moscow Hide and Fur or Eidnes Fur and in the long run are cheaper - both places often have sides/pieces on sale and/or sell slightly damaged hides (holes, slash marks, etc) at a reduced price.
 
Thanks Keith and Chuck, and thanks for the input Chuck. I am by far a pro at this, so any advice from a pro is welcome. You are after all, the first one to give me advice and my start with this type of sheath work.You were also the first one to tell me about Moscow Hide and Fur, which is where I still get a lot of my supplies, including rawhide. Lately I am still using rawhide I got in trade a while back, 5 deer skins for a small neck knife.BTW, would you mind sharing your recipe for the linseed based sealer, as I can't find the old timey spar varnish anywhere.
 
John the "easy" way to make an old time linseed oil based varnish is:
1) Order some Tried and True Oil Varnish (they are on line) - this is a heat polymerized pure linseed oil based varnish
2) Order some Liquid Lead Drier - http://store.studioproducts.com/Liquid-Lead-Drier-lead-napthanate-24-p-16153.html
and add per the directions to the Varnish above - you can do it cold or heat (beware of the fumes!).
3) Order some Thickened Turpentine http://www.woodfinishingenterprises.com/varnish.html#thtrp

This a great period finish for wood and antler as well as rawhide...
The thickened Turpentine is used as a thinner - add to some of the Varnish Mix at about 6 parts varnish to 4 parts Turpentine. Use this for the first coat or two. Let dry between coats - you need GOOD sunshine and warmth for drying. Then add a coat or two of the unthinned varnish, letting dry between coats. I takes longer than modern finishes bit IMO I like it so much better......
On wood more coats may be needed - I burnish with antler in between coats on wood.

If you want a harder, shinier finish you can melt some Benzoin (available from the same place as the Turpentine) into the Varnish before adding the Lead drier.......

BTW - I'm still looking forward to doing a trade with you someday but I'm still swamped with orders and am still running behind..........
 
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