rayskin inlay

HSC ///

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I was given a piece of rayskin today that I'd like to try as an inlay on folder scales.
anyone have any experience working with this for an inlay,?
any suggestions on the adhesive to use? prep work? what should I be careful about?

regards

CeEeUUY.jpg
 
Like Kuraki says, cutting it is no fun. Each of those little nubbins is like a little ball of plastic that you have to cut through.

I think if you cut oversized then used a rotary tool sanding drum, you could probably get it sized pretty accurately.

Interesting trivia. Shark scales are made out of dentin, the same thing teeth are made from. (Pretty sure ray's bumps are too)
 
Your question is sort of, I have a piece of wood, how do I carve a horse out of it. :)

It is hard to cut. Jeweler's metal scissors work well.Any good epoxy will retain it.
A good way to inlay something hike that is make the inlay recess and a small metal or wire rim that fits in it. Trim the same' to fit and glue it in, with the rim covering the edge.
 
I have done two using cream colored rayskin inlaid into tulipwood. Measure twice cut once and I carved out the area in the wood slightly smaller than the skin, then trimmed it. skive the edge if you plan on overlapping. I also sanded with Xfine paper (used to do Imagery overlays like that from P-3's, who knew the skills would transfer :)).
 

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If the inlays are flat, I would almost want to glue it down on a piece of .030" G10 after rough cutting it to size, then use the sander and work rest to do the final shaping and either remove from the G10 after it fits or drop the whole works into the pocket.
 
How well does it hold up to use? I love the way it looks, however I had some ray-skin slip cases I got from Culpepper I used for a while to carry pocket knives in, but over time the little nubs would pop off in random spots, and weren't too hard to pull off. Could have just been low quality though..
 
If the inlays are flat, I would almost want to glue it down on a piece of .030" G10 after rough cutting it to size, then use the sander and work rest to do the final shaping and either remove from the G10 after it fits or drop the whole works into the pocket.
I like this idea, thanks
 
Yes, you have to sand the edges to shape them. I like kuraki's idea gluing it to a firmer base and trimming them together.
 
How well does it hold up to use? I love the way it looks, however I had some ray-skin slip cases I got from Culpepper I used for a while to carry pocket knives in, but over time the little nubs would pop off in random spots, and weren't too hard to pull off. Could have just been low quality though..
I have rayskin boots that I have abused for years and the tops still look brand new...
 
Rayskin that has been make into "garment" leather has had the back sanded down to the scales as well as being tanned to soften the skin. Rayskin for knife handles is much tougher. A rawhide same' skin is hard as metal. I cut it on the bandsaw sometimes.
 
Rayskin that has been make into "garment" leather has had the back sanded down to the scales as well as being tanned to soften the skin. Rayskin for knife handles is much tougher. A rawhide same' skin is hard as metal. I cut it on the bandsaw sometimes.

This seems about right. The toe on my rayskin boots is almost as ridgid as a steel toe and it has no steel in it.
 
I soak it in water for a couple days to soften it then wrap around the tsuka. I tie it in place with cord and let it dry. When taken off, it is hard and stays rolled up in the tsuka shape. I cut off the excess at the ends on the band saw, then trim the seam to get it flush with metal scissors ( light gauge metal cutting shears). Even in the wet and somewhat softened state it is very hard to cut. A knife blade will just slide over the nodes. If cutting with a knife you have to cut from the flesh side ... and then snap the skin to break it.

IIRC, the nodes are chitin, which is natures hardest substance.
 
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