Razor-Edge Sharpening System

Joined
Dec 5, 2002
Messages
3
Received my new Razor-Edge Sharpening System this week and I have yet to obtain a good hair popping shaving edge as the book refers to.

I have been good at sharpening knives for many years. I have used a wet stone free hand years ago, have been using both the Lansky and Spyderco Sharp Maker all with good results. I guess in the great search for a better mouse trap I purchased the Razor-Edge BK52 sharpening kit.

I have tried about 6 or 7 knives with the new system and the only knife that I sharpened out of these was a sheath knife I made a few years ago and it has what I consider a great edge.

When I sharpen on the system the relief edge from the coarse stone looks great and it must be in my final honing where I am not getting the results I would like. Checking the edges with the sharpness tester checks good but when shaving with the edge it pulls and is not a good clean shave of arm hair.

Interested in anyone using the Razor-Edge System with suggestions and their results. Hope I can get better with it as it is a costly investment for a better moustrap.

Terry:confused:
 
Welcome,

I use the razor edge system and really like it.
The last couple strokes on the fine hone need to be very light. Make sure the guide is put down on the hone before the edge of the blade.
 
try coloring the edge with a magic marker. This will take a bit of time, but coat the edgesand do one stroke one ach side with the fine hone. Then look at the edge. coat, sharpen, look, repeat. The marker will tell you is you are actually hitting the edge or not. As said by John, use relatively light pressure with the fine hone, with each stroke getting lighter and lighter.

Try that and report in!
 
Thanks Crayola,

The fine hone is where I think I am not getting the finish I am looking for.

How far do you move your guide towards the relief and towards the end of the blade when you start with the fine hone?

It does great with the coarse getting the relief on the blade. Puts a nice looking even edge on.
 
I don't use the guide when grinding in relief. You do that by hand (say at a 15 degree angle per side) and just scrub away- you can get the relief bevel pretty even with little practice. Then I us the guide to set the edge bevel on the coarse hone- it pops up right away. THen I switch to the fine hone and make a few passes to even out the scratch pattern, and then I move the guide just like they say in the instructions- a little bit forward and a little bit closer to the edge is what it amounts to. Do your alternating passes and VOILA! A sharp edge!
 
Yep. Pretty much what Crayola said....Only I thought you move the guide a little forward and away from the edge. :confused: Guess it's time to yank out the book.
 
very interesting...

I've had trouble trying to decide if I want to try out the Razor Edge system...
 
JohnnyO,

though I don't have my kit's instructions near me, I am pretty sure you go closer tot he tip and closer to the edge. By doing this, you move more of the guide closer to the edge, which raises up the angle. Think of a pop can underneath one end of a ruler- the closer to the other end of the ruler that you roll the popcan, the greater the angle of the ruler! Cool huh :)
 
Crayola,

Your absolutely right. I check their book. It says, to increase the angle you pull the blade back "into" the guide about 1/8".

Either I've been using my Sharpmaker too much and didn't remember, or have been doing it wrong! I really don't know.:confused:
 
Pendentive,

If you've already got coarse and fine stones, the guide is only $15 or so plus shipping. The guide is less expensive than most Lansky systems, but then, the Lansky systems have built-in hones.
 
thombrogan

Thanks. Each time I revisit the subject, I get right up to the point of buying a guide, or a system, etc. and something always pops up that either looks better or casts doubt on whether or not I should go for it.

:confused:
 
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