RC-3 vs fallkniven F1

Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
207
I have had the SWAT version of the RC-3 for a few years and really like it. Recently I've been seeing alot of activity around fallkniven and the F1 which is comparable in size to the RC-3. Any comments on how the F1 stacks up against the RC-3
 
I have an F1 and went with it over the RC-3 because of a few things. For starter the Grind, I really like the performance of a Convex grind. It is also easy to touch up for me. Mouse Pad and sand paper you can get nice results. The Blade is thicker on the F1 .180" vs .125" Ok we are talking a 3.8" blade here but still. Also the stainless is a plus for me. I am almost always near water, fishing and camping going hand and hand with me. Sheath...RC3 is much nicer. ESEE seems to know how to make a sheath. They are so nice in just about ever ESEE I have either owned or seen. Handle is pure preference however both are small and the ESEE tend to be boxy! I do really like the Pommel on the RC3. Also you can get the RC3 with serration if you like...cant with the F1. They have their place just not with me. Cost wise 90 vs 105 it is very close. And Finally warranty...RAT KILLS IT! The BEST! To be honest either way you have a great blade. I will own one soon. I want to get that and the RC4. I had an RC4 and sent it back to keep the Bravo 1 but I really did like the RC4 alot! Warranty...sheath...you cant lose. ESEE knives I am never afraid to use and abuse. They seem to take it and want me. good luck.
 
I like the F1 better.

F-1's pluses:

More usable blade length. (No choil).
Convex blade. (Zero degree edge and built in foolproof sharpening angle).
One of the toughest stainless steel knives ever made. (Laminated construction).
Nicer handle.
Hammer pommel.
Coated or uncoated.

RC-3's pluses:

More blade variations. (Serrated or plain clip point or drop).
Superior sheath system.
Flat ground. (More alterable edge geometry).
Carbon steel blade. (Easier field sharpening).
Unbelievable warranty.
Made in the USA.
Better value if you like it.
Cooler online forum community.:D
 
Oh one other item...choil...is super nice on the RC3. But honestly I dont think you will think 2x about it on the F1 since the blades are generally very short.
 
i had to make a decision between getting an ESEE5/Izula combo or a Fallkniven S1/WM1-3G combo very recently.

while the ESEEs put in a very, VERY strong showing, i decided to go with the Fallknivens.

the main issue for me was materials. while 1095 is an awesome steel with a long and proud pedigree in some truly exceptional knives over the years, i ultimatly decided to try out what Man has managed to do with steel in the interim. the Fallknivens won this battle with the Laminated VG-10 and 3G steel in their knives.

after materials came design, which was a very, very close fought battle. both Fallkniven and ESEE have awesome, awesome designs.

then comes grind: again, here the Fallknivens won out with a convex grind over a flat grind. i prefer convex for a whole bunch of reasons that make perfect sense to me, but probably none at all to anyone else.

the ESEEs comprehensivly won out on Price and Warranty. i decided that the Warranty wasn't such a huge issue for me, if the S ever really hits the F, i don't see Warranties being much use. As for price, i decided to spoil myself.

Both companies appear to have good corporate philosophies that i respect. i found Fallkniven to be very friendly when i contacted them. I like that neither company will make disparaging comments about any other firm.

overall, i'm very happy with my choice to go with the Fallknivens. however, i'm equally certain i would have been well served and very happy with the ESEE offerings.

i see an Izula or maybe a Junglas or HEST entering my life at some stage. i also see a H1-3G, a PHK and possibly a TK-6 on the horizon. who knows, one day i might even get an F1.
 
I love the esee products but the f1 is my favorite knife overall. And the more I use it the more I like it, it goes everywhere with me. just make sure you know how to sharpen a convex blade, it's not hard just different and may impact your personal decision
 
I own both the RC-3 & Fallkniven F1. Both are outstanding knives but I do find myself taking my F1 with me on a lot more trips.
 
Don't own an RC-3 or ESEE-3, but I've had a chance to use my sister's F1 for batoning and firestarting tasks. I REALLY like the convex grind, and it stays very sharp. However I did manage to chip the edge in 2 places. It may have been that I went through a few knots, I'm not sure, but that has never happened to my 1095 ESEE knives.

Another plus for the F1 is that you can use the back edge for firesteel. It's not a sharp 90 degree edge but it is sharp enough to get a good spark going. You'd have to remove coating on the RC-3 to do that.

Still, you can't beat the ESEE warranty. Both excellent knives, why not get both? :D
 
However I did manage to chip the edge in 2 places. I
both? :D


Thats what i read often in the net. Seems that the steel of the F1 is very hard and not very good and stable for chopping.
Thats for me a no go for a knife.

I would prefer my RC-3. The 1095 Steel does everything well and i dont have to be afraid for chips.
 
I think that the chipping is probably the user's doing by hitting sand or stones when doing stuff.
My rc-3, rc-4, a1 and f1 never chipped out and they do see some use.

I prefer the f1 over the rc-3, but I have the serrated rc-3 so that's not a fair comparison. the rc-4 and f1 also compete imo and for me, the f1 is a better cutter, the convex grind and the thick spine make it easier for me to do the things I do. I do feel however the rc-4/rc-3 has a stronger handle and are some very good knives. The stainless steel of the f1 is a bonus. The rc-4 did get rusty easily when hiking in scotland. The handle of the f1 is nicer in cold circumstances without gloves.

In the end, they are both knives that function pretty well no matter what the conditions and they all rock.

In my signature are links to youtube reviews by me of both the fallkniven f1 in use (check out part 2 in sweden to see some usage of it) and the fallkniven f1 with the rc-3 as a reference knife in it. Also the rc-4 in scotland.
 
However I did manage to chip the edge in 2 places. It may have been that I went through a few knots, I'm not sure, but that has never happened to my 1095 ESEE knives.


This is a common complaint with fallknivens. On one hand you have a lot of people complaining they chip easy and then on the other you have people who say thats bs.

The chipping always seems to come after battoning wood so my guess is that users are hitting rocks and not realizing it. Take my word, keep it far from rocks.

I was a little disappointed with the fit and finish with the fallknivens. My sheath actually did a hella good job scratching the blade before I realized and took a chisel to the inside of the leather but other then that I have no complaints. The steel is IMO better then just a 1095 but you can't beat ESEE's warrenty.

I would go with the F1, just for the reason I think the 3's blade is too thin HOWEVER if you cannot stop yourself from battoning into the ground (use a flat piece of wood for protection) go for the 3
 
I still have my RC3 but I gave my F1 away.

I can tell you that I did have micro chips on my F1, I didn't baton with it, dig, or anything else. I got the chips from using a 1000/1500 grit Japanese waterstone.

I've heard (on the Fallkniven sub-forum on knifeforums) that sometimes the factory edge will get micro chips until you sharpen it a few times.

I found VG10 to be difficult to sharpen, but I can easily get a very keen edge with 1095.

I've also seen pictures of Fallkniven handles that were torn from batoning and badly worn from the sheath. I would say that micarta is a much more rugged handle material.

I prefer the blade depth and spine thickness of the RC3 (ESEE) blade, it really does make a fine slicer.

I wish that it could be bought without a choil and in a stainless uncoated steel. Perhaps ESEE will make a knife like this in the future, I hope so.
 
I still have my RC3 but I gave my F1 away.

I can tell you that I did have micro chips on my F1, I didn't baton with it, dig, or anything else. I got the chips from using a 1000/1500 grit Japanese waterstone.

I've heard (on the Fallkniven sub-forum on knifeforums) that sometimes the factory edge will get micro chips until you sharpen it a few times.

I found VG10 to be difficult to sharpen, but I can easily get a very keen edge with 1095.

Some good points. Sharpening a convex edge requires a different process to do it properly, a simple stone can work but will do a shitty job.
 
I have both and I really like and enjoy using both of them. I live in PA and for me on a regular basis my ESEE and Blind Hose Knives both in 1095 are my go to knives. However, when I do get the chance to go places near the coast I rather use my F1 specifically for it's VG10 and the small amout of corosion resistance it offers. Again they are both great knives and you won't be disappointed with either. My suggestion is to purchase the one you feel you like the most now, and when funds allow purchase the other.
 
Some good points. Sharpening a convex edge requires a different process to do it properly, a simple stone can work but will do a shitty job.

dear lord NO.

simple stones do a great job on a convex blade. it's the operator that results in a shitty job.
 
Thats true....Ive had great luck with my Fallkniven DC3/4 stones.

It does require a differant tech, and some practice....like anything else.
 
dear lord NO.

simple stones do a great job on a convex blade. it's the operator that results in a shitty job.

I suppose if I can't peel an apple with a chainsaw its operator error too eh?

This argument has been beaten to death thousands of times. Its insanely hard to use a stone for convex edges and not mess it up or change the profile with repeated use (and chipping it is messing it up). Can people do it? Yes. If your one of those people great but the rest of us should use a mousepad or a strop and not let the blade ever get too dull.

Why make life harder?
 
I own both the RC-3 & Fallkniven F1. Both are outstanding knives but I do find myself taking my F1 with me on a lot more trips.

I'm with you.......I don't believe they should be compared to each other as they are in a class of their own.....and both "must have" for me.;)

F1build016.jpg
 
I suppose if I can't peel an apple with a chainsaw its operator error too eh?
yes.

it's clearly a case of the operator using the wrong tool for the job = Operator Error.

This argument has been beaten to death thousands of times. Its insanely hard to use a stone for convex edges and not mess it up or change the profile with repeated use (and chipping it is messing it up).

it's been beaten to death by people who, for some unfathomable reason, seem to think that a convex edge is something mystical, weird and difficult.

convex edges are not mystical, nor are they weird and they are far from difficult to sharpen.

if you grabbed a piece of flat bar-stock steel, (let's say 10" long, 2" wide and .25" thick piece of Leaf Spring steel?) and hand-ground one edge of it on a piece of rock until it's sharp, guess what! you have just done a convex grind! why do you think Katana traditionally have convex edges? because if you grind down a piece of steel on a water-stone, you will get a convex edge profile.

now, i'll grant you that sharpening a convex edge on a stone takes a small amount of practice, as the angle you need to use is rather different to the angle you would use for a flat-ground blade.

however, once you get the hang of it, it no longer registers that you are sharpening a convex blade, you're simply sharpening a blade.

but once you get the hang of it, it's really easy.

i can get my WM1-3G shaving sharp again with less than 10 minutes work with a DC3 stone.

i maintain that edge with a strop, which radically increases the intervals between needing the stones.

Why make life harder?

why believe that sharpening convex edges is difficult when it isn't?
 
I watched Knifenut1013 convex my Izula using only diamond stones and a strop. It's indeed an art form.
My Izula now has an edge every bit as nice (maybe nicer) as my F1.
 
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