RC 4 impressions

B

BC Bob

Joined
May 22, 2009
Messages
1
I recently purchased an RC 4. Short story-I love it! At first I was a little disappointed that it was smaller than I expected, but now, after a few months I realize it is the perfect size. It cuts real good, too! The Kydex sheath is excellent. The knife fits snug and secure but is instantly accessible. I couldn't make the MOLLE clip work without using hand-tools and many cuss words-just too tight. No matter, the para cord holds it on my belt even better-rides behind my right hip close as a tattoo!
Couple of minor modifications I would like are; saw teeth on the spine-handy for notching snare sticks and other construction; also I would make the pommel flat instead of rounded so it could be used for light hammering (round off the corners a little so they don't dig into your hide).
Another modification is something I do with all my knives that have "hard" handles. I drill a tapered hole in the left handle scale with a 5/8" countersink ( a 5/8" drill bit will work too). The purpose of this is so it can be used as the upper pivot on a bow-drill, the ancient fire-making tool. That is always the hardest part of the contraption to find out in the wild! Clever,huh?
So-any comments?
 
Appreciate the comments!

We've been making knives with bow drill divots in the handle for years! ;)

The Laser Strike was one of our first ones to have that. And that came out somewhere around 2000 I believe.
 
Congrats on the RC4 . RC5 has a bow drill divot as well , never really seen a Sawback spine that was effective .I had a Buck master 184 & Buck 639 both lousy and Gerber LMF & BMF again waste of spine.... IMO .... I always carry a SAK or small folding hand saw.
 
The ONLY saw I have ever seen that worked great was on my Parrish. I have had that since 1984 or so, and it REALLY saws through anything FAST.

I am not a fan of the divot, at least not like most do it now. I would rather see a larger brass flared rivet like what you see on a Busse handle. Something like that could be polished up and you would have very little friction compared to what you have on a micarta handle. I just think the friction should be where you want to start a fire and not on both ends.

Then again, cost comes into play as well. I think anyone could drill a hole and JB weld a flared rivet or a piece of copper water pipe that has been flared, into one side of a handle.

Heck, go buy a premade brake line at an auto parts store with a double flare on each end and cut off one end. Then JB weld that into your handle. Polish it up with a Dremel and I bet that would work great.

You even have a little hole to put some lube from a PJCB if you wanted or from a Chapstick.

Those lines come in all sizes.
 
Glad you are liking the RC4--the proper handle design makes all the difference in the world. I have found the RC4 fits my hand perfectly--even though I have large hands.
 
Try a TEk loc for the RC4. Just use a small washer on the larger hole and the screw will not slip through. I put another washer on the other screw just to make it look pretty:).
T
 
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