Re-Aligning Blade(s)

[Depeche]

Hello,

I have a Case 75 stockman that has a misaligned clip point blade that is pushing up against the sheepsfoot. I would like to adjust this. I've been told that, in order to move the blade (when closed) to the left, I need to move (or adjust) the blade (when open) to the right. Is this correct? Seems counter intuitive so thought I'd throw it out to y'all. Thanks!

 

[dsutton24]

Left and right mean different things to different people, and it may change when the knife is open versus when it is closed... Perspective, you know.

Push the blade away from the blade it's resting against with your thumb with the knife closed. That's the direction you need to bend it. You want to bend the tang, not the blade. You run the risk of breaking the blade, it's best to experiment with a knife you don't care about before going after a good knife.

Or, just leave the poor thing alone. Blade clash has been going on for four hundred years, it's the Internet that has turned normal, minor imperfections into fighting causes. Your knife, your choice, of course. I'd suggest that you ignore what is really a minor cosmetic quirk in a cheap knife rather than risking a broken knife.

 

[Depeche]

Left and right mean different things to different people, and it may change when the knife is open versus when it is closed... Perspective, you know.

Push the blade away from the blade it's resting against with your thumb with the knife closed. That's the direction you need to bend it. You want to bend the tang, not the blade. You run the risk of breaking the blade, it's best to experiment with a knife you don't care about before going after a good knife.

Or, just leave the poor thing alone. Blade clash has been going on for four hundred years, it's the Internet that has turned normal, minor imperfections into fighting causes. Your knife, your choice, of course. I'd suggest that you ignore what is really a minor cosmetic quirk in a cheap knife rather than risking a broken knife.

It's not really just a cosmetic problem - blade rub is endemic with 75s and I am ok with the scratches - but the clip doesn't close in most cases unless its kinda slammed down. It's bad enough that the blade edge might get nicked if I am not careful - and I don't like to "have" to be that careful with my user knives.

However, point taken.

It's actually a repaired knife that came back from Case with this new problem that wasn't there when I sent it in. They are sending me a new knife without having to send back this one so thought I'd fool around with it a bit.

Thanks much.

 

[afishhunter]

IF the blade rub is severe and makes opening the clip or sheepsfoot difficult, or affects the closing of the blade(s), you can add a small swedge with a file to the sheepsfoot (clip point side) where the rub is the worst. I did that on a offshore Uncle Henry 885, and a Marbles D2 Sowbelly stockman I have.

I agree with dsutton24 . Blade rub, minor gaps between springs and liners and/or covers and bolsters, slight/minor blade wiggle at the tip, springs not quite flush in open/closed/ (if applicable) half stop positions, slightly or vastly different cover colors on the same knife, a cracked bone/horn/antler cover at the center pin from pin to spring, etc. that do not affect functionality, are minor cosmetic quote-unquote "defects", that production knives have had since day one.
Not worth fretting about if they do not affect function.
If they affect function and the knife is still under warrantee, you can (and should) return it to the manufacturer.
NOTE Case specifically excludes blade rub as a warranty issue on their stockmans. They claim "blade rub goes with the pattern,"
(most strange ... none of my two spring Rough Rider/Ryder stockmans in the same size class as the 75, that retailed for $9.⁹⁹ plus free shipping when I bought them), and my offshore Old Timer 858OT and 858OTB lack blade rub. (The RR gone up to $15.~$20 on the second hand market now. Inflation blows. )

Only since "Collector" interest took place have expectations for a flawless knife regardless of the original retail price point (and preferably never used or sharpened when it is pre-owned) become a "thing".
A knife is first and foremost a tool. Tools change and wear over time. When used, it does not matter what the blade steel is ... sure as taxes and death, it WILL need sharpened eventually, and WILL get scratches....

 

[mrknife]

yes, i second leaving well enough alone

 

[ea42]

Depeche is it the clip or the sheepfoot that's out of line? If you do attempt to crink it the bend should be right around the shoulder where the tang meets the bevel grind. Open the blade halfway and use something to prop the blade up no more than halfway from the tang (even closer if you can) to keep pressure off the top half of the blade.

Eric

 

[SoansoMcMasters]

If it's not chipping the blade edge I would leave it. I had two micarta stockman exclusives from somewhere that both went back because it was chipping the blade when closing. So blade rub really can be more than cosmetic, but these were extreme examples. Given they were exclusives purchased close together it may have been a problem with this run? They had other fit and finish issues as well, including huge gaps between the springs, which is probably what accounted for being off so bad.

 

[afishhunter]

If it's not chipping the blade edge I would leave it. I had two micarta stockman exclusives from somewhere that both went back because it was chipping the blade when closing. So blade rub really can be more than cosmetic, but these were extreme examples. Given they were exclusives purchased close together it may have been a problem with this run? They had other fit and finish issues as well, including huge gaps between the springs, which is probably what accounted for being off so bad.

If exclusives of that "biggest" knife store in the "foggy mountains" of TN., I'm shocked they accepted them from the manufacturer.

 

[chevyrulez1]

I had a spay blade on a Boker stockman that was rubbing and really stiff. I put the blade in a padded vice and tried to tweak it, and snapped the blade off.
I would say lesson learned, I have successfully tweaked on other blade since then
As long as you are willing to take a chance I guess

 

[Modoc ED]

My standard position on Case Stockman knives especially, the XX75:

"Case tends to use thinner blade stock on their stockmans than other manufactures use on theirs. When opening say the clip blade, most people put side pressure at/on the nail nick causing the blade to rub against the sheepfoot blade thus causing some scratching on either or both blades. Not really a warranty issue for Case as they don't see it as a mechanical problem. Over the years, I've had a couple knives stating just that returned from Case with no replacement - just a repolish."

 

[Just Tom.]

blade rub is endemic with 75s and I am ok with the scratches - but the clip doesn't close in most cases unless its kinda slammed down.

I had the same problem with mine. I wound up thinning the spines of the main and the sheepsfoot with a file. There is still a little rub, but the main blade closes much better - though still not great, because of the weak spring.

 

[321Bandaid]

If you ever get a Case stockman without blade rub, send it back! There's something wrong with it.

 

[waynorth]

I brought an expensive Cattle knife back to Queen in 2005 (their heyday) to straighten a blade that was severely off, in person!!
I watched the cutler blow the blade into 3 pieces!!!
They gave me their prototype to replace it (The only way they could)!!!
Bill told me later that the special steel was basically un-crinkable!!!! I think it was 52100!!! Hard but not tough, it's used for ball bearings!!

 

[mrknife]

I brought an expensive Cattle knife back to Queen in 2005 (their heyday) to straighten a blade that was severely off, in person!!
I watched the cutler blow the blade into 3 pieces!!!
They gave me their prototype to replace it (The only way they could)!!!
Bill told me later that the special steel was basically un-crinkable!!!! I think it was 52100!!! Hard but not tough, it's used for ball bearings!!

yikes! William had warned me that such a thing could happen the first time I had brought my deleted gecs to get corrected

 

[Depeche]

This worked well for me:

 

[Daddyo16]

This worked well for me:

This worked well for me on several knives.

 

[ea42]

This worked well for me:

I wouldn't recommend laying the blade down like that with no support under it. You're transferring all of that shock to the tip of the blade and stand a good chance of snapping the blade or bending the tip. Supporting the blade at roughly a third of the way up keeps the shock near the tang where you want it crinked and where hopefully the blade is annealed. I use a piece of leather to support it:

Eric