Re bevel mini grip 154cm and s30v with sharpmaker?

A

american21

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Sep 29, 2013
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My mini grip 154cm came no edge basically I spent two hours with the brown and white stones on the 40 degree setting still not happy can't slice paper or shave. Just ordered diamond rods and ultra fines. How many strokes for the diamonds? The typical 40 strokes per step? Do I use the corners? Do I back bevel to 30 then go back to 40? The second knife is for my manix 2 s30v it's sharp but when it's time same questions
 
I don't find it useful to count strokes as there are so many variables (e.g. pressure, slight changes in angle, stone load up) that prevent this from being an accurate way to sharpen. The most basic advice I can give you is this: you will need to remove enough steel to form an apex at the edge. How you accomplish this is entirely up to you; you can do a scandi grind, a secondary bevel, a microbevel, convex, etc.

It seems like you want to thin the shoulders of your knife out. If all you have available to you is a Sharpmaker, then use the 30 degree slot to sharpen the bevel with until it reaches an apex. Many people use the instance of burr formation to tell if they have reached the apex on one side of the knife. You will need to do this for both sides. After you have thinned the bevels out, you can move to the 40 degree slot to form a microbevel if you wish.

Using the Sharpmaker it will be slow going. The diamond stones will help speed things up, though it may still take quite a while to get the job done.
 
Good call on the diamond rods. I have em' and like them a lot. They will cut plenty well for the steel that you are using. A little tip on them, dont use a ton of pressure. That will only wear your stones down quicker. Let them work, and you will get what you want. I would go 30 degrees on the diamonds. Get your bevel evened out, and get it smooth with the diamonds, and it will be shaving sharp, and push cut paper easily. I would then go to 30 on the brown rods, until smooth. I would strop to a fine polish, and then come back for a 40 degree, with your white rods. Just my opinion, but I think you will have a hell of an edge, and it will not only be tough, but cut great. BM's 154 is a great steel btw.
 
Bravo what would be the pluses and negatives of doing all that on just the 40 setting? I'm new to sharpening no strop but diamond,course fine and ultra fines in just got
 
cynic 2701 said it perfect.

fyi, the diamond stones aren't very low grit and dont' speed up reprofiling much over the brown stones. except, in my experience, on common carbon steels, like condors 1075, and various makers 1095, etc. on stainless you wont' see the speed increase much. i went to congress tool stones and this made a world of difference. mind ya, there stones aren't perfect in size like the spyderco, so the angles will be affected somewhat. i end up with more of a convex edge than a true v edge......but they work fast and if all ya got is a sharpmaker......and you want to remove allot of material from a steel like s30v you are gonna want a lower grit than the spyderco diamonds.

i also use dmt diamond benchstones low grit and attach them to my spyderco stones, that works well too and the courser diamond benchstones cut fast...and your angle is good set at 30 inclusive to remove the shoulders and allow the edge to hit the 40 degree inclusive side and get the edge sharp like ya want.

lots of posts and videos on how to do what i mentioned....
 
Ok listened to bravo almost exactly 6 hours later I have a razor like edge where I had no edge from the factory musta messed up except I didn't spend long enough on the diamonds
 
A few years ago the highest grit I had was the Spyderco ultrafine stones. If you are very meticulous with each step, then you can actually get somewhat respectable results.

Here's a Spyderco Sage 2 that I did by hand that I ended on the ultrafine stones:

Sage2.jpg


After having gone through several types of sharpening equipment (Sharpmaker, DMT stones, Edge pro, diamond tapes, waterstones) I can say that I would highly encourage developing the skill to sharpen free hand. This allows you to use all sorts of different types of stones and strops to sharpen a knife, and it will help you get to the upper echelons of sharp. Just remember that even though a 40 degree edge could be hair whittling if done correctly, the more acute your bevel angles are (i.e. the thinner your knife is behind the edge) the better your knife will cut.

Here's a few pictures of the sort of edges you can get free hand. Some of them I've had a little help with the Edge pro to set the bevel, but I have free handed the polish on them:

25 degrees inclusive on an M390 Para 2:



20 degrees inclusive on an Umnumzaan:



Approximately 25 degrees inclusive on a Sebenza:

 
jbmonkey said:
cynic 2701 said it perfect.

fyi, the diamond stones aren't very low grit and dont' speed up reprofiling much over the brown stones. except, in my experience, on common carbon steels, like condors 1075, and various makers 1095, etc. on stainless you wont' see the speed increase much. i went to congress tool stones and this made a world of difference. mind ya, there stones aren't perfect in size like the spyderco, so the angles will be affected somewhat. i end up with more of a convex edge than a true v edge......but they work fast and if all ya got is a sharpmaker......and you want to remove allot of material from a steel like s30v you are gonna want a lower grit than the spyderco diamonds.

i also use dmt diamond benchstones low grit and attach them to my spyderco stones, that works well too and the courser diamond benchstones cut fast...and your angle is good set at 30 inclusive to remove the shoulders and allow the edge to hit the 40 degree inclusive side and get the edge sharp like ya want.

lots of posts and videos on how to do what i mentioned....
Click to expand...

I disagree, I use mine for things like my ZT recurves, and they cut quite well for me. Also, I spent about 50 bucks on Congress stones, and that was some wasted money. The ones I got, were like trying to sharpen a knife on chalk. Really kind of sucked for me. I guess we all have our preferences.
 
american21 said:
Ok listened to bravo almost exactly 6 hours later I have a razor like edge where I had no edge from the factory musta messed up except I didn't spend long enough on the diamonds
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Sorry, I was away for a while. The project, should not take you 6 hours. Maybe a couple of you were really anal. Cynic showed you some edges that I have gotten with my UF rods, as well as freehand. It takes a while to do, and it takes practice.

As for bevels. A 40 will work, there is nothing wrong with it. I like a 30, with a 40 micro. It is just a preference, and nothing more. It all depends on what you want to do. I have done a 30 with the diamonds, and a 40 micro with the fines. That will give you a toothy edge that will cut like hell. There is plenty the you can do with your SM. The biggest thing, is to make sure you fully refine your edge, before going to the next stones. Hope this helps, Josh
 
That is really strange. BM, is usually pretty good about sending knives out fairly sharp. They, like many others, may or may not have even bevels (which drives me insane), but they will ususally shave.
 
My box said copyright 2003 they all say that? Not sure if I got a old one from a time of poor qc or something
 
L2bravo said:
I disagree, I use mine for things like my ZT recurves, and they cut quite well for me. Also, I spent about 50 bucks on Congress stones, and that was some wasted money. The ones I got, were like trying to sharpen a knife on chalk. Really kind of sucked for me. I guess we all have our preferences.
Click to expand...

You disagree on the spyderco diamond rods cutting slower than lower grit stones? Which congress....they have multiple types and all are not like chalk. Doesnt matter though as the sharpmaker is a terrible tool to use for reprofiling.....but im dumb and still like to use it.....just not for 6 hours. Hence congress....but how nice would it be if spyderco would make some extra course and course for reprofiling.
 
american21 said:
Hey answer my question
Click to expand...

Hey, I don't know.

JB, I must have gotten the wrong ones, go figure. My luck for sure. What I really wish Spydeco would do, is build an XL Sharpmaker. Imagine if they had 1" wide stones, and maybe 6" longer. In all grits, plus a couple of coarser grits, would be unreal. Just dreaming here.

If I need to do some serious re profiling, I use my dmt bench stones. One thing I do still use the sm for though is recurves, like my ZT 0350. I do like my sm still. They rock! Josh
 
L2bravo said:
Hey, I don't know.

JB, I must have gotten the wrong ones, go figure. My luck for sure. What I really wish Spydeco would do, is build an XL Sharpmaker. Imagine if they had 1" wide stones, and maybe 6" longer. In all grits, plus a couple of coarser grits, would be unreal. Just dreaming here.

If I need to do some serious re profiling, I use my dmt bench stones. One thing I do still use the sm for though is recurves, like my ZT 0350. I do like my sm still. They rock! Josh
Click to expand...

Maybe not. Sounds like you tried a bunch. Ill admit the only oje I like is the res cut ones. The others I own need oil or water and I got spoiled with the spyderco ceramics and dry is the way I like to sharpen.

your idea xl sharpmaker.....I am digging on it. To me a great idea.
 
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