Re-blasting question

petrosil

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Feb 26, 2006
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I have searched the forums and it seems like aluminum oxide is the better media to use for duplicating the original finish. My question is what grit is the best and if there is a good online source that for it.

Thanks
 
I would have said the finish looked like an aluminum oxide media had been used but I don't know that for a fact.
 
Don't know what they use at factory.

Aluminum oxide matches factory finish, I use 70 grit, and buy from Harbor Freight. Be sure to protect contact surfaces.
 
Thanks guys, I will stop by HF next week and see what grits they have, guess it wouldn't hurt to have several on hand. Think I'll practice on my Sage 2, never liked that finish and would like one that is closer CRK's.
 
IIRC Chris once told me they used 80 grit glass, that's what I have always used....there are some variables like air pressure and nozzle size but it's all good.....80 grit and high pressure works well, the aggressive beads can beat up the Ti.
 
IIRC Chris once told me they used 80 grit glass, that's what I have always used....there are some variables like air pressure and nozzle size but it's all good.....80 grit and high pressure works well, the aggressive beads can beat up the Ti.

Mark, what's your working distance with these beads?
 
Don't know what they use at factory.

Aluminum oxide matches factory finish, I use 70 grit, and buy from Harbor Freight. Be sure to protect contact surfaces.

I use the same stuff, something like 60-80 grit and it looks and feels factory.
 
I talked with Chris on the phone a couple of weeks ago about the blasting media CRK uses. He told me they've been using 60/80 for a number of years.

I called him to ask if CRK has ever used a fine bead blast finish on some of their knives. He said no. I have a large regular with a fine bead blast finish...it's not original.
 
I talked with Chris on the phone a couple of weeks ago about the blasting media CRK uses. He told me they've been using 60/80 for a number of years.

I called him to ask if CRK has ever used a fine bead blast finish on some of their knives. He said no. I have a large regular with a fine bead blast finish...it's not original.

Craig their are so many variables with beadbalsting it not really fair to say by the use of a particular grit that a finish could be precisely replicated.

Beads start at a particular grit and soon become another.

Beadblasters require more air volume that most other pneumatic tools and there Is a big difference between a garage set up and a commercial screw drive unit.

I consider Reeve's finish to be fine, look how easy it scotchbrites.

I have seen guys shoot them with carbide beads because they wanted a more aggressive finish.
 
I agree with what you wrote, and would guess that at that distance a lot of the glass beads may be fracturing, which would give a more toothy finish.

Craig their are so many variables with beadbalsting it not really fair to say by the use of a particular grit that a finish could be precisely replicated.

Beads start at a particular grit and soon become another.

Beadblasters require more air volume that most other pneumatic tools and there Is a big difference between a garage set up and a commercial screw drive unit.

I consider Reeve's finish to be fine, look how easy it scotchbrites.

I have seen guys shoot them with carbide beads because they wanted a more aggressive finish.
 
I agree with what you wrote, and would guess that at that distance a lot of the glass beads may be fracturing, which would give a more toothy finish.

At any distance they deteriorate, after they impact the object and recycle they are lesser.

Titanium really isn't a hard metal.
 
I talked with Chris on the phone a couple of weeks ago about the blasting media CRK uses. He told me they've been using 60/80 for a number of years.

I called him to ask if CRK has ever used a fine bead blast finish on some of their knives. He said no. I have a large regular with a fine bead blast finish...it's not original.

Thanks clockman, that's good information from the man himself!
 
Craig their are so many variables with beadbalsting it not really fair to say by the use of a particular grit that a finish could be precisely replicated.

Beads start at a particular grit and soon become another.

Beadblasters require more air volume that most other pneumatic tools and there Is a big difference between a garage set up and a commercial screw drive unit.

I consider Reeve's finish to be fine, look how easy it scotchbrites.

I have seen guys shoot them with carbide beads because they wanted a more aggressive finish.



I don't think he is saying it is an exact science. But those of us who have used 60/80 aluminum oxide have found it matches the factory finish near exact. The only real difference is if you are using recycled media. Fresh media gives you a rougher finish, while recycled media gives you a finer finish as it isn't 60/80 anymore. Just really depends on what you want. I've used the 60/80 in a friends commercial unit in his shop and my home setup with the same results.
 
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