Re profiling from 25 to 30 degrees inclusive

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Peakbagger46

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I’ve got a drop point Umnumzaan in S45VN on the way that the previous owner sharpened at 25 degrees inclusive on his Wicked Edge. I’m hoping to sharpen it to 30 degrees inclusive using my Sharpmaker with diamond rods. How difficult is that likely to be with my setup?
 
Going from 25inc to 30inc is kinda like un-sharpening ... :-/
But, it would be easier than going the other way 'round.

Don't mean to indicate what you should or should not do with your own knife, but suggest you at least consider simply applying a 30inc micro-bevel and let that micro-bevel grow through a few sharpening's. Or if it is an aesthetic thing, of the bevel being visually too wide, (I'd hold my reply :-)
 
yep^. just apply a microbevel to 30 inclusive and you're good.....no reason to try to remove steel to get to the wider bevel part to get a primary bevel of 30 inclusive. the microbevel will make the edge very strong too for that steel.
 
Peakbagger46 said:
Thanks guys. What will happen if I just continue to microbevel at 30?
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Sooner or later you’ll remove enough steel to where the bevel will reflect the 30 that you want. It will depend on how often you sharpen a knife and how aggressive you get wanting to change angles.
Personally, I think the 30 micro bevel is the best way to slowly change the bevel.
 
Spey said:
Going from 25inc to 30inc is kinda like un-sharpening ... :-/
But, it would be easier than going the other way 'round.
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This. The more acute angle holds a working edge longer, too. (I know. Sounds counter to what it should be. However, Mr. Larrin Larrin has confirmed this in all of his edge testing.)
That "sharp enough to whittle hair" edge don't last but a cut or two anyway. Over the last 6 decades (60 years), I've found a good working edge to be much more important/useful than a super keen initial edge.
 
Most any decent cutlery steel these days will hold up fine at 25° inclusive. For my knives, that's the 'sweet spot'. I generally focus on maintaining that for the most part, sometimes including a barely-there microbevel at 30° inclusive (using the SM for that).

Most good cutting performance is determined by the geometry behind the apex and it's not as much about the apex itself. In the cut, the apex opens the door, so to speak. But the real work gets done most efficiently as determined by the narrowness of the steel behind the apex. It works well even after the apex dulls a bit - which is why edge retention and cutting performance is actually better on edges with narrower geometry (within limits, of course).
 
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OP, the difference between the 2 angles is relatively minor (regardless of which angle is superior or more useful), so is the reason you want to change the angle due to the fact that your Sharpmaker is set up for 30 degrees and you feel it would be easier for you maintain that angle?
 
karnaknives said:
OP, the difference between the 2 angles is relatively minor (regardless of which angle is superior or more useful), so is the reason you want to change the angle due to the fact that your Sharpmaker is set up for 30 degrees and you feel it would be easier for you maintain that angle?
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Yes, that is the reason I am considering reprofiling it.
 
Peakbagger46 said:
Yes, that is the reason I am considering reprofiling it.
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RE: " ... Sharpmaker set up for 30 degrees ..."

Consider applying Sharpie (black marker) to the existing bevel, then with Sharpmaker stones set in 30°inc positions (15dps) tilt blade approx 2.5° off vertical (primary bevel gonna be real close to 3-5dps so approx 1/2 the primary grind bevel) and then the Sharpmaker will be following existing 25°inc bevel.

Even better yet, learn to use stones in horizontal stone positions for sharpening (both stones laid flat in base) and simply follow/match existing secondary bevels at 25°inc.
 
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