Re-Profiling Question

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engle's-wilder

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Nov 18, 2010
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So, I have heard the word "re-profiling" being thrown around a lot as it relates to axes (and knives). What is meant by this? Is it simply sharpening the bit with say a file?

Is it OK, for a guy to "re-profile" his axe's cheek from a convexed to concaved shape? (changing a splitter into a feller essentially). Is there a point at which I can't keep grinding the axe down (on any portion of the axe)... Like if I sharpened away an inch my edge is the steel that I'm at now no good anymore? Or is it that I can continue taking away material until I have almost no axe left?

sorry if these are confusing!:o

thanks!
 
It means setting a new profile, like taking a edge from 30 per side to 15 per side or V grind to convex.
 
engle's-wilder said:
So, I have heard the word "re-profiling" being thrown around a lot as it relates to axes (and knives). What is meant by this? Is it simply sharpening the bit with say a file?

Is it OK, for a guy to "re-profile" his axe's cheek from a convexed to concaved shape? (changing a splitter into a feller essentially). Is there a point at which I can't keep grinding the axe down (on any portion of the axe)... Like if I sharpened away an inch my edge is the steel that I'm at now no good anymore? Or is it that I can continue taking away material until I have almost no axe left?

sorry if these are confusing!:o

thanks!
Click to expand...

Many times on axes only the section closest to the cutting edge is hardened during heat treat. Grinding back too far would bring you to softer steel that will not hold a solid edge. This is not true for all axes, however I know it is on my Gransfors Bruks Hatchet. The poll is not recommended for pounding because the steel has not been tempered.

It really shouldn't be that much of a concern, because most likely if you chip or crack your axe bad enough to grind that far back past the hardened edge steel, you will experience other issues with the balance and weight of the axe head as well that will be just as problematic as a soft edge that will not hold up to use. If this happens, it's time for a new axe.

JGON

JGON
 
Re-profiling is just as it sounds. You are reshaping the bevel that will (hopefully) better suit your intended use for that edge.

Say you want a super sharp and refined edge to scare sheeple. You can show them how sharp a knife with a really low profile can be. It's not what you'd call "durable "at all.

Take an axe for instance. you couldn't put that sort of profile on it, it would bend and dull immediately with all the force behind it, so you put a convex edge, which is about the limit in the "durability' class.

In between, you have your soft-ish S30- IMHO, good for convex. For something harder like ZDP, you can put a 12* v-edge on it, and still expect some durability from it.
 
I prefer the term "rebeveling." Reprofiling should be reserved for changing the outrline of the blade.
 
thanks guys!

I have a more specific question now though... what If I were buying an old plumb axe head and hanging my own handle on it. And let's say I don't like the shape of the head for my purposes. Would it ruin the axe if I filed the head (it's cheek specifically) until it looks more like a Gransford Bruks head or a Hudson Bay?

thanks again!
 
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