Re-profiling question

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wildernessnerd

Joined
Jan 12, 2011
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102
Hi All,

I have a knife that's a scandi grind with a secondary bevel. I want to remove the secondary bevel and make it a pure scandi. I'm going to purchase a diamond stone that rated extra coarse (150 grit). I'm wondering if I use the extra coarse diamond stone, will it hurt my knife? or should I go with a coarse stone (250 grit)?

All help is greatly appreciated.

Thank You.
 
All you'll be doing is removing metal. It wont hurt the knife, but it will scratch up the surface. You will need finer stones or sandpaper to get back to a finer finish if you want. I personally like a good even 120 or 220 grit finish.
 
me2 said:
All you'll be doing is removing metal. It wont hurt the knife, but it will scratch up the surface. You will need finer stones or sandpaper to get back to a finer finish if you want. I personally like a good even 120 or 220 grit finish.
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Thanks me2.

I just order the extra coarse diamond stone made by Eze-Lap. And will be reprofiling my blade as soon as the stone gets here.
 
I agree with me2 on the finish or edge. I have reprofiled a 440C blade with that stone. Looking back I wish I had reprofiled it on the Norton SiC coarse stone as reprofiling wears a diamond down and the Norton SiC stone would not have noticed it. Save the diamond stone for the edge. Use a work horse stone to reprofile with. DM
 
David Martin said:
I agree with me2 on the finish or edge. I have reprofiled a 440C blade with that stone. Looking back I wish I had reprofiled it on the Norton SiC coarse stone as reprofiling wears a diamond down and the Norton SiC stone would not have noticed it. Save the diamond stone for the edge. Use a work horse stone to reprofile with. DM
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yeah you can also press harder on the silicon carbide, doing that on the diamond risks removing some of the abrasives.
 
David Martin said:
I agree with me2 on the finish or edge. I have reprofiled a 440C blade with that stone. Looking back I wish I had reprofiled it on the Norton SiC coarse stone as reprofiling wears a diamond down and the Norton SiC stone would not have noticed it. Save the diamond stone for the edge. Use a work horse stone to reprofile with. DM
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If I don't press to hard on the diamond stone, will that keep the diamonds from falling off?
 
Yes, I sharpen with diamonds as well (DMT diasharps) and you really want to only use light pressure because the diamonds are so hard they will cut very effectively anyway. But if you do press hard it'll take out the diamonds out with it. If you want to reprofile with diamonds I've heard the XXC (extra extra course) stone from DMT is very very nice for that but it's quite pricey. I just reprofile with a SiC stone but hopefully I can save up for the DMT soon :D
 
A diamond plate is the wrong tool for a scandi ground knife.

Waterstones, oil stones, or sandpaper over glass are the more common and effective ways to sharpen a scandi grind.
 
Diamonds plates don't fair well with large grind faces, can't say I know exactly why but its faster, smoother, and looks better when other methods are used. In my experience the feedback is low and its difficult to maintain even bevel contact. You also have the issue of diamond being too aggressive for low alloy steels, it tends to rip and chew through the metal and not remove it cleanly.
 
knifenut1013 said:
A diamond plate is the wrong tool for a scandi ground knife.

Waterstones, oil stones, or sandpaper over glass are the more common and effective ways to sharpen a scandi grind.
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How about using the Diamond stone for quickly removing a secondary bevel on a Scandi grind, then finishing up on regular stones?
 
What sort of steel is your knife made out of Wildernessnerd????

If it is not some supersteel I'd just use a very flat surface and wet dry paper. The diamond thingie will work, but if you use sandpaper and gradually switch to finer and finer paper it will be easier to remove the scratches from your bevel than if you use the diamonds.
 
Can only second knifenut. It did not work for me at all trying to "flatten" a scandi grind on diamond, it also feels weird! I tried it on the spyderco bushcrafter, however it's scandi grind is slighlty convex so you have to grind away a lot of metal. Same problem with a custom scandi I have, also slightly convex scandi.

Wildernessnerd - for what it's worth, I changed my approach to the scandi grind as soon as I see that the scandi bevel is somewhat convex. I grind in a new bevel in a slight rocking motion. It works quite nicely, you produce a burr quickly, the overall edge is somewhat stronger (maybe), you can apply a microbevel also and I have not noticed a significant change in performance compared to a flat scandi.

Also, if I may since it had bugged me for a long time, short forth and back motions work much better than edge leading strokes along the entire blade only. It is actually not that easy to maintain (even though it's a scandi) the right angle all along the belly and tip this way, my impression anyway. The long strokes for the whole blade may work once you actually have a flatttt scandi already.
 
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Hey mate, I did it some time ago on a Lauri carbon blade with a DMT diasharp black.
It could be done, but you need to have some patience and don't rush, some of that scandi with secondary bevel are slightly convex, check often to see where The stone is making contact with the blade, and for me The most important advice is stop whenever you're tired before you mess it up.
Good luck, It is very satisfaying when you achieve It.
Regards
Mateo
 
hollowdweller said:
What sort of steel is your knife made out of Wildernessnerd????

If it is not some supersteel I'd just use a very flat surface and wet dry paper. The diamond thingie will work, but if you use sandpaper and gradually switch to finer and finer paper it will be easier to remove the scratches from your bevel than if you use the diamonds.
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The Steel on my knife is 1095.
 
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