Re-profiling two Neckers.

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Jun 23, 2006
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I own two Beckers - a BK24 and a BK11. I bought both of them and immediately started fiddling with them: Stripping paint, making sheaths and handles. Recently I actually cut something with them. It didn't go that well.

Both knives came with small edge bevels, which were fine enough that it was difficult figuring out what angle they were at. Everyone says 15 DPS, so I assumed that the flat grind took the blade down pretty thin. Then one afternoon I threw 6 knives in a pack and went for a walk in the woods. I spent an hour carving, splitting and chopping 3/4" sticks. The Mora was the best, the Anzas worked surprisingly well, as did one thick bladed blade I made, and the Schrade hollow handle was decent. The Beckers, which had sharp edges, wouldn't carve wood. I decided the edge angle must be something greater than 15.

Imitating the action of a Lansky System, I re-ground the edge of both Beckers with a fine diamond stone, then went over that with 500 grit carbide paper stuck to a piece of flat steel. It looked like the edge bevel effectively doubled in height. Now they would cut wood without bottoming out against the bevel transition.

I had an idea of where I was sharpening, but measurements of the edge dimensions converted to around 16 DPS. I imagine the factory edge was closer to 30.

Anyone else had trouble with carving using a factory edge? Did I just get two QC bungles? Should I lower the angle further for either or both (D2 vs. 1095CV)?
 
I can't really help you there. The very first thing I did was reprofile my 24 to around 15 dps. It had a sharp edge to begin with but I knew I would need it thinned out.
 
I don't know what the original bevel was set at, but it took a lot of work (and removing a lot of metal) to get my 24 to 15dps. It was well worth the effort, cuts like a laser now.
 
I would keep the 1095CV knife fairly acute, but wouldn't thin out the D2 too-too much. I *think* it has a coarser grain structure and larger carbides, which usually require a bit more meat to hold in the matrix. But take that with a grain of salt - I traded my D2 BK-11 to Psyop, and hadn't spent that much time with it.
 
I would keep the 1095CV knife fairly acute, but wouldn't thin out the D2 too-too much. I *think* it has a coarser grain structure and larger carbides, which usually require a bit more meat to hold in the matrix. But take that with a grain of salt - I traded my D2 BK-11 to Psyop, and hadn't spent that much time with it.

The D2 held up fine to more carving. D2 isn't fragile - unless it is heat treated right off the spec sheet. I'm giving Kabar more credit than that.

1095CV should be able to go even smaller - but maybe not at 56-58 Rc.
 
I had problems with the bk11. It was very difficult to get shave sharp until I got diamond stones. Then it was still hit or miss. I took it to a knife shop and they increased the bevel significantly. I was kind of upset as the knife looked different but after touching it up on my fine and extra fine DMT stones I actually got it to hair whittling sharp. Now with the extended bevel it is easier to match the angle.
 
I just convexed my 10. I didn't thin it out yet just knocked the shoulders off. After I get it out in the woods I'll see if I need to go lower.



 
Just knocking the shoulders off of the grind really makes a big difference IMO in performance when it comes to wood carving and the alike. 99% of my knives are like this as I just prefer this type of edge.

My 14 has been thinned out a lot, its a completely smooth convex transition from grind to edge. Couldn't tell you what degree (etc) it is at, but I find this edge just bites into wood, and is really easy to maintain. Also it eliminates a lot of the "wedging"' that occurs when doing food prep and what not. There is a slight convex micro bevel at the very edge that keeps it from rolling when going through harder media. Hard to pick up in pictures but its thin and sharp... My 15 is the same way... Love it.



 
Just knocking the shoulders off of the grind really makes a big difference IMO in performance when it comes to wood carving and the alike. 99% of my knives are like this as I just prefer this type of edge.

My 14 has been thinned out a lot, its a completely smooth convex transition from grind to edge. Couldn't tell you what degree (etc) it is at, but I find this edge just bites into wood, and is really easy to maintain. Also it eliminates a lot of the "wedging"' that occurs when doing food prep and what not. There is a slight convex micro bevel at the very edge that keeps it from rolling when going through harder media. Hard to pick up in pictures but its thin and sharp... My 15 is the same way... Love it.





My 10 will look like that over time. I just hate to do that up front and waste all that steel ;)
 
My 10 will look like that over time. I just hate to do that up front and waste all that steel ;)
Oh yah I get it. I don't just out of the box reprofile my blades but it usually happens at some time. Best to take it, use it, then adjust the edge based upon your experience with the blade.
 
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